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Doall Dgp-24 Drill Press -worn Plastic Cam. West Epoxy? Jbweld?

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countryguy

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#1
Picked up a winner w/ a possible easy-fix! Two speeds on this DoAll DGP-24 do not work. They are both related to the worn CAM end shown in the pictures below. Seller thought it had a broken gear.... 3 franklins + I move it out made it mine. Love this stuff!

Should be an easy fix if I can get something to fill in the Divot, stick, and take lube. The rod that the cam pushes down does spin while in contact w/ the plastic cam. I have a feeling it was just left in that speed since the 80's?

Do we have JBWeld believers? I do have the West epoxy System which I could mix up too. Or? what else could I do to fill in the two divots on each plastic CAM point. Two of them are 1/8"-3/16" or so worn.

I did confirm this will fix the missing two speeds by just putting a shim between the pin and cam... Bingo!
Whatever I fill in w/ will need to be oiled and take a bit of punishment.

I could make a new plastic CAM on the CNC Mill, but then I'll need to rip and replace. Want to try epoxy maybe as this is a home/hobby drill setup. Not a full time thing.

Notes- DOAll-Fix-IMG_0104.jpg Notes- DOAll-Fix-IMG_0103.jpg
 

47convertible

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#2
Heck of a buy on a geared DP with power downfeed.
What about drilling the worn spots to size and putting in pushrod ends out of a junk engine. They are hardened and will take a heck of a beating plus shafts are hollow and some really heavy gear oil put up in there might last for quite a while to help lube it. All could be done from the open face of the DP case.
Jerry
 

countryguy

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#3
I was thinking the same thing... Drill it and put in something non-plastic. Thank for the idea of yours! It does need to glide in/out of cam position when rotated, so a little grinding work there should get it done. Anyway, I could not wait- I put in the JB weld. (I am still a newb technically LOL). If it does not stick and take lube, I'll just remove it and machine a new cam from something. Everyting else will last 40 more years on this thing- May as well make a set of cams to keep up. We'll see.
 

Bob Korves

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#4
I cannot see the design of the cam very well, but if it is not too complicated you could make one out of something like O-1 tool steel, harden it, and never worry about it again. Ever. More complicated shapes could be done by someone with a CNC mill. You might even find someone on this forum interested in helping you out.
 

RCWorks

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#5
It doesn't look to hard to remove and make the part... Doing it right the first time means you don't have to do it again.

In the shop we have a saying... "Why is there never enough time to do it right but plenty of time to do it again?"
 

countryguy

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#6
So so true! Thanks for the nudge.
 

countryguy

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#7
I will pull it out and make one! Promise. I wonder about wearing out the push rod part if I make the cam too hard? The round push rob spins on the cam. Should the cam be softer? I posted thumbnails. If you click the picture does it launch the full size image? Thanks for the note. Cg

I cannot see the design of the cam very well, but if it is not too complicated you could make one out of something like O-1 tool steel, harden it, and never worry about it again. Ever. More complicated shapes could be done by someone with a CNC mill. You might even find someone on this forum interested in helping you out.
 

countryguy

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#8
Ok , so from the posts... I will make a few cams on the cnc mill. As I wondered above, do the new cams made of metal need to be softer than the push rod part (which spins)? If I wear thAt down I think it will be a much worse problem.
Thanks guys. Jeff.
 

Bob Korves

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#9
What are the spinning rods made of? Are they glass hard, or relatively soft? Steel or something else? There are combinations that work well together, and others that do not...
 

Bob Korves

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#10
Do-All is still in business. You don't suppose they might still have parts for it, do you??? Maybe it could go another 30 or 40 years, maybe longer with some lubrication.
http://www.doall.com/dgisupply.aspx
It is a long shot, but worth checking into...
 

chips&more

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#11
I have not had any luck when trying to use glue or epoxy to repair plastics. If you have something spinning at the problem area. I would drill and thread that spot and insert a threaded brass plug. Make sure the threads you select, RH or LH, are going in the correct direction to insure it will screw in the brass plug and not unscrew it when you run the machine.
 

Steve Shannon

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#12
I use epoxies and JB weld for many things, but I wouldn't for this.
 

jpfabricator

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#13
If theres room use a metal hose clamp. Get one thats long enough to leave the most strip of stainless possible to cover the holes.

Sent from somewhere in East Texas by Jake Parker!
 

Billh50

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#14
Whenever you have the means to make something right it is better than using a bandaid. Bandaids do not last and are only used to make something work long enough to finish a job.
 

John Hasler

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#15
I'd want to make a new cam out of the same type of plastic to avoid wearing out the cam follower. If that cam has been in there since the 80s it's held up pretty well. Nothing wrong with a wear part wearing out. I'd rather have to replace that cam again in twenty years than have to replace the shaft that rides on it in five.

You might want to take a close look at the end of that shaft, too.
 

stonehands

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#16
Just my 2c but the rod the cam works on is of a small diameter compared to the working surface of the cam. Couldn't you make a flat topped tappet for the rod that would ride on the entire surface of the existing cam? This will only work if there is an additional amount of travel in the rod to allow for the thickness of the tappet surface. This fix would make the cam life very long and a good polish on the tappet top would make the wear almost nil. I have a gear head Do-all drill press that the little b@$&%$#@ at the high school shifted while running and ate the fiber gear. I got the press for $100 ( the cost of the invertor box) and made a gear from delrin. Forget about factory parts for these, they don't seem to exist. BTW the press was less than a year old when they broke it , no drill damage to the table but they broke all of the oiler cups off in that short period. Good luck with your repair--David
 
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countryguy

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#17
Weird- post from this morning not here? quick update- Been so busy past few weeks. Did put in JBWeld on 1 cam as a test. Stuck just fine. But only 1 layer. Needs a few more layers to build up the cam. Said heck w/ this...Son sold me on a 3d Printer.... Yep. I think it's time. I could have had all 4 newly printed in Nylon and replaced by now. He's a smart kid but it's always Dads wallet! We are looking at the Lulzbot Taz6 : https://www.lulzbot.com/learn/announcements/announcing-lulzbot-taz-6

Everyone have a great summer!!
 

countryguy

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#18
I thought I would post a quick update. There is a 3D printer in the house now. I finished my very first Fusion 360 POC just to try and learn the autodesk app. All I can say is "Wow"! My son is big w/ Solidworks (as a design student) but I'm really impressed w/ Fusion360!
For a few quick lessson vids- I went w/ the Fusion Friday youtube vids from NY-CNC https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
It seems to be really popular w/ CNC and CAM ops w/ this guy. I'll get into the dimensions and printing in a few weeks or so.
CamPOC1.jpg taz6.jpg
 
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countryguy

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#19
I finished the replacement gear in Fusion 360 last night. I've 3D printed the replacement and am about to go put it on the shaft and reinstall into the DoAll. I'm using a crafted filament call n-Gen. The Nylon 6 that I tried to print is much harder to print with and I'll need to learn and experiment to get those settings down. In the image, the White item is the Nylon 6(18) which started to curl and warp. The original part is in the middle.
For now, the n-Gen gear in grey prints wonderfully in about 2hours as a "solid" part (no internal hollow areas). I even added the hole and now do not even need to drill! Gotta love this stuff.
Few points-
1- To go from Fusion360 to Cura (3d printing software totally free) is just a button click. Pic below.
2- To make an actual engineering drawing in F360 is really easy!!! Wow! pic below) .
3- Look out world!
click on thumbnails to open into larger actual size pics.

replacement-gear3of3.JPG DGP-gear3of3.jpg fusion-2-Cura-1button.jpg
 

JimDawson

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#20
OK, I'm convinced, I need a 3D printer! Very cool and saves a bunch of machining time.

Hmmmmm, I wonder if a router can double as a 3D printer. Would be cool to have a 48x96x10 print area, and my router has two independent Z axis heads. Need to look into print heads.
 

JimDawson

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#22
Great! Another project to do.:eek:

Thanks for the link.!:)
 

countryguy

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#23
The grey part done in a plastic broke as soon as I smacked it onto the shaft. I did put a heft on it. I knew I needed the nylon based cam.
Filiment #3: a type called alloy 910.
http://taulman3d.com/910-features.html

The cam printed great in this material. Finally installed and a wrap!
image.jpg
 

Silverbullet

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#24
Just my 2 cents but I would have made it out of brass .
 

Silverbullet

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#26
Yes it's called a milling machine and a rotary table. I doubt the cam made in the way that machine works will hold up very long. If it was made from brass it would last longer then the owner.
 

countryguy

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#27
Ending this post- Done, finito, Happy camper! After the new nylon cam went in, it still did not work.
30 hours later - I pulled out most of the springs, pushrods, gears, and even more the Nylon push-rod parts. Yep- Even more plastic parts in the bowels of the gear changing setup. 3D printer to the rescue again! A worn heavily grooved dowel piece was .291 diameter by .75 tall in plastic. Nice to just print that in like 10mins.

Cleaned, greased, adjusted, loved..... Runs like a new machine. Now I cannot wait to make holes in somethings :)
If anyone ever picks up a DGP-24 unit, Ping me... Know em' inside and out now. Whew!

PS- enjoy the manual! I've attached it here.
 

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malmac

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#28
I came looking for ideas on free CAD drawing software - Fusion360 - will investigate - just wanted to say - I don't own a 3D printer - and I can't see myself going that way anytime soon - but do admire the work you have done - I know that great feeling of making stuff work.
 

2rods

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#29
Hi countryguy. Manual doesn't seem to work for me. Can you send it to tworods@shaw.ca?
 

kd4gij

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#30
It opened right up for me. Just need a pdf reader installed.
 
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