• We want to encourage those of you who ENJOY our site and find it USEFUL to DONATE and UPGRADE your membership from active member to donating or premium membership. If you want to know the differences in membership benefits, please visit THIS PAGE:

    https://www.hobby-machinist.com/premium/

    Donating memberships start at just $10 per year. These memberships are in fact donations that help pay our costs, and keep our site running!
    Thank you for your donation, God Bless You

  • As some of you know, I have wanted to stop managing H-M for some time. It's a tremendous strain on my personal life. I want to set up my own shop. In September, September 15, to be exact, it will be 8 years that Hobby-Machinist has been in existence.

    I have been training VTCNC to run things here. Dabbler is going to learn too. I feel that they are ready to start taking over the operation. I will be here to help in case they need, but I don't think they will. Tony Wells is and will be here also to consult with. I will be doing backups, upgrades, and installing addons. Other than that, I will not be around. I am leaving this place in good operating condition, and financial condition.
    --Nelson
[4]

Drilling a socket?

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

Aaron_W

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Messages
301
Likes
333
#1
I want to make a T handled 14mm wrench to adjust the top nut on a quick release tool post.

I bought a 14mm deep socket at Home Depot which really is almost enough a tool to do the job as is, but where is the fun in that.

The cheapest, easiest way to do it would be to just drill a hole near the top insert a piece of rod and secure it.

I've considered other options including buying a 3/8" T handle hex key and cutting it off so the handle matches my other lathe / mill wrenches, but that is a $15 solution to a $1.99 problem (as if this whole project isn't a solution looking for a problem).



I'm just not sure how hard the metal of a socket is, practical to drill or not?

Home Depot, Husky brand socket, so on the lower end price wise, but generally decent quality.

If drilling the socket isn't a great idea, I can always use some key stock or similar to insert into the drive socket and drill through that. Going through the socket just looks cleaner and makes a slightly more compact tool.
 

agfrvf

Registered
Registered
Joined
Mar 13, 2017
Messages
120
Likes
53
#2
Why not get 3/8ths square stock steel and make a T. Then use JB to epoxy it together.
 

Aaron_W

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Messages
301
Likes
333
#3
That is basically plan B.
 

dlane

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Sep 27, 2014
Messages
2,901
Likes
1,353
#5
Weld it, that’s what I did, also drilled taped two set screw holes where the nut is to keep it there. Not the prettiest weld but it works.
CAAB25E8-FFF2-432B-903E-73FC61ECF9F1.jpeg
 

benmychree

John York
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
2,126
Likes
1,566
#6
Being that it is a deep socket and likely pretty hard, you could partially anneal the squared end and be able to drill it easily, you can sit the socket end in water to prevent it from being annealed.
 

Aaron_W

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Messages
301
Likes
333
#7
drill it, weld it, buy one of these and snap it
https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-7-in-slide-bar-handle-3-8-in-drive
(not that i'm endorsing craftsman)

That would be the smart thing to do, but too easy.. :)

I'm really amazed that a small simple (cheap) T handle isn't available commercially, I just want about 3" for a little more grip. Basically like a T handle hex or Torx driver.

Weld it, that’s what I did, also drilled taped two set screw holes where the nut is to keep it there. Not the prettiest weld but it works.
View attachment 265466
That is basically what I'm looking to do, but with the handle centered, and a little prettier. Tiny lathe so doesn't need a lot of torque to snug the nut down.


Being that it is a deep socket and likely pretty hard, you could partially anneal the squared end and be able to drill it easily, you can sit the socket end in water to prevent it from being annealed.

That's an idea, I could probably manage that.
 

Janderso

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
544
Likes
289
#9
You have the taper attachment
You coold sell that and purchase the deluxe Aloris set
 

Billh50

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
1,924
Likes
1,426
#10
Most sockets are not that hard. Otherwise they would crack to easily. I have not found one yet that I can not drill with HSS drill bits. I have drilled and turned many through the years. It is the chrome that is hard. But that is a very thin layer and can be ground through before drilling easily with a dremel or hit with a carbide to get through the chrome.
 

Aaron_W

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Messages
301
Likes
333
#11
You should have just bought a wrench.....:grin:
That thought has crossed my mind, I don't think I'm the first to get an idea in his head, and come hell or high water you will have the tool you want, not necessarily what is most practical. :abnornal:

You have the taper attachment
You coold sell that and purchase the deluxe Aloris set
I have the Little Machine Shop QCTP which I understand is basically a knock off of the Aloris QCTP. The thing is they seem to assume you will use carbide tooling and not want to change the angle of the tool frequently, so just have a standard flanged not holding the post down. I use HSS so change angles more frequently.

As Derf so kindly points out easily fixed with a wrench, but I'm in the habit of a T handle hex wrench. Probably swapping the nut for a wing nut would have done the trick too and cost me $0.46.
 

Aaron_W

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Messages
301
Likes
333
#12
Most sockets are not that hard. Otherwise they would crack to easily. I have not found one yet that I can not drill with HSS drill bits. I have drilled and turned many through the years. It is the chrome that is hard. But that is a very thin layer and can be ground through before drilling easily with a dremel or hit with a carbide to get through the chrome.
Good to know and that makes sense. I've read enough posts from people trying to drill something and be told , yeah, we could have told you that stuff is hard (rail road tracks seem to come to mind). Easy enough to ask first as I won't get to it until this evening or tomorrow.
 

Tozguy

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1,629
Likes
1,068
#13
If you drill the socket and stick a handle in it would look like a drilled socket.
Something like this looks better to me :)
 

Attachments

cg285

Registered
Registered
Joined
Jan 10, 2018
Messages
248
Likes
93
#14
you could of had it done by now, by which ever way :)
 

kd4gij

Active User
Registered
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
4,587
Likes
1,758
#15
Grind the chrome off and drill away.
 

Z2V

H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
H-M Platinum Supporter ($50)
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
615
Likes
563
#16
Or you could do something like this
59D31CA1-DFA1-455D-A931-FB4AD8C10B88.jpeg
 

Aaron_W

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Messages
301
Likes
333
#17
I decided to make a little cap that fits on the back that will accept the T handle.

My first official project using the mill. I already managed to slice my thumb on the end mill while setting up the vise (mill not running, but those things are sharp o_O ).

The cap is done, need to drill it and make the T handle tomorrow. Will post photos when done. Thanks for bouncing ideas with me.
 

jdedmon91

Registered
Registered
Joined
Dec 29, 2017
Messages
223
Likes
523
#18
You can drill it, I do it often, just go slow and carefully. I even tapped them. If I use a socket for a project I pick them up at a auto parts store so their are good quality


In fact this is 1 1/4 socket to use hex dies with on my lathe. I bored and bushed the end for 1/2 rod. Drilled and tapped for the handles and the screw for the die holder


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

whitmore

Registered
Registered
Joined
Mar 3, 2017
Messages
316
Likes
189
#20
If you drill the socket and stick a handle in it would look like a drilled socket.
Something like this looks better to me :)
I agree, the square hole is easy to mill (or file) a boss to fit, and the socket is deep enough to just
use a screw and washer to retain that boss. Make any kind of tee handle you like, and attach
it with a hidden screw, washer, and some threadlocker.
 

westerner

If you are gonna be stupid, ya gotta be TOUGH!
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
123
Likes
179
#21
Being that it is a deep socket and likely pretty hard, you could partially anneal the squared end and be able to drill it easily, you can sit the socket end in water to prevent it from being annealed.
This is exactly how I built a gib screw adjuster for my Craftsman/Atlas. The locknut is a 3/8 , adjusting screw is slotted. A minor pain in the neck to get done right. Found an old Proto deep socket. Annealed ratchet end, drilled to fit a 1/4 rod thru. Drilled rod for a 1/8 flat screwdriver blade. Soldered a nut into the business end of the socket deep enough into it to allow socket engagement with gib locknut. Now my flat blade screwdriver is held centered over the adjusting screw.

gib tool 1.jpg gib tool.jpg
I did not attempt to drill the socket first. I assumed my "less than toolroom" quality drill bits were not gonna cut it. :cautious:
 

Aaron_W

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Messages
301
Likes
333
#22
Sorry, I had an issue logging in, but all seems to work now. I finished the wrench over the weekend and have posted photos in the shop made tools forum. Thanks for the help, I'm happy with the way it turned out and it fits nice in the hand.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/t-handle-socket-wrench.69272/

Why a socket over a box wrench with the other end cut off?
It is a small lathe and a T handle just feels more comfortable. Probably just habit, it is what I'm used to doing with the old post.
 

British Steel

Active User
Former Member
Joined
May 12, 2011
Messages
767
Likes
640
#25
I drilled and tapped the M16 centre bolt to take a M8 SHCS, put a compression spring and washer on the M8 to keep the socket for the top nut captive but have enough lift to disengage from the centre bolt's nut - with a 12-point socket it can be repositioned every 30 degrees so the handle's clear of the working space after tightening down (also, I have a thrust bearing between the nut and and the QCTP which lets it tighten down tighter without a lot of grunting and straining as the friction's eliminated and all the force goes into the thread)

Excuse the CAD rendering, easier than fighting my way to the lathe and taking a photo right now!

QCTP top handle.PNG

I'm sure it could be improved, perhaps a tapered / conical cap that the SHCS is set into would look better, but it works...

Dave H. (the other one)
 
Last edited:

MrWhoopee

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Jan 20, 2018
Messages
285
Likes
185
#26
Why a socket over a box wrench with the other end cut off?
This is what I did. Works great since the nut on the tailstock is the same size, which is where it lives.
 
[6]
[5] [7]
Top