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DRO Mounting??? for the BP

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Kroll

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#1
Morning guys,well this is not going to be a play by play post but just a post for me to ask questions on mounting the scales for 3 axis DRO.Been reading others post on how they did theirs which I do plan to follow but its the problems that gives me problems along the way.In my other post asking about which DRO to purchase on how to mount the DRO kinda started to blend in so started another DRO.And I had posted there that I got the X axis scale mounted but the space between the reader and the scale is not spot on or within the tolerance.The mounting bracket for it that I made using the drill press just is not working,so first lesson that I learned you really need a mill to mount your scales on a mill.I now see that to accurately make brackets plus the ones provided I need my mill to be working(still waiting on UPS bring parts) Anyway I do have some 1/8 aluminum plate that I feel and hope is thick enough to kinda hold the readers,plus I am picking up some 1/2 plate to make brackets like T Ted did for his(my way wasn't working out) and going to also order some 1/4 plate and maybe 3/8 plate maybe all in about 10x10 size.Another reason for this post is for me to have a location to ask questions about what endmill do I need for making those nice looking slots for those socket head screws.Milling is new to me also so good place to start learning,of course after Santa brings my indicator hold:)
 

ttabbal

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#2
I used one of the end mills from a cheap Chinese HSS set. Worked fine in aluminum. I got the set for learning and breaking, but I haven't managed to break any yet.

I did make my brackets etc on the mill as I went. I generally had enough adjustment that I don't think doing it on a drill press would be bad. Other than milling the slots.
 

Dynahoe Dave

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#3
I used my machine to make the pieces I needed to mount the scales, and to cut one that was too long.
 

Dynahoe Dave

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#4
Easiest way to make the slots would be a center cutting end mill. I would think. Bring it down, then travel to make the slot. Assuming it's the size you need for the hole.
I have milling cutters I bought from McMaster Carr, and some from random surplus stuff I picked up, a few came with the machine.
The most annoying and hardest thing for me to get used to is this - During setup of the workpiece, it's best not to have a cutter in the quill. They are sharp as razor blades, and don't move if you bump your hand into them.
 

Technical Ted

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I agree you'll want to use your mill to make up some of the brackets. Also, although not "necessary", I typically will drill a slightly undersized hole at one or both ends of a slot depending on how many passes it will take to cut the slot to full depth. More important in steel and harder metals than aluminum. This is a lot easier on the end mills, especially the sharp corners. There are some tricks you can do like feeding down as you move across so you don't have to plunge in. If you do plunge in without a hole make sure you have your ways locked on larger end mills or your table will most likely start to dance! Plunging is tough on end mills... even two fluters. The centers do not cut well even with center cutting cutters.

YMMV,
Ted
 
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