Drum Switch again

[pbiYoung]

Hello
I know this topic has been discussed to death on here as I just read through every thread I could find with the search term "drum switch" ... so I apologize ahead of time if somewhere this particular configuration has been discussed but I was unable to find it.

I have a single phase, dual voltage, reversible motor and have attached the motor internal wiring diagram. I have a hockey stick type drum switch and have attached the associated switch wiring diagram. It would be easier for me to figure out it the switch diagram had labeled motor wires instead of only E.E. hieroglyphics. Any guidance would be welcomed and help me, not only with my shop equipment, but with hair loss as well. Thanks in advance.

 

[markba633csi]

No problemo, you've come to the right place. Let me study your diagrams and I'll post back
How many horsepower is the motor? If 3/4 hp or more I recommend it be run on 220/240 volts.
Looks like you've got a Dayton motor- they can be difficult to puzzle out
-Mark

 

[pbiYoung]

No problemo, you've come to the right place. Let me study your diagrams and I'll post back
How many horsepower is the motor? If 3/4 hp or more I recommend it be run on 220/240 volts.
-Mark

Great
Thanks
It’s only 1/3 HP but I do want to wire it to run on 220/240

 

[markba633csi]

Too bad you don't have a "chopstick" type switch instead, I just did a diagram last November for another member with the same type of Dayton motor for 220 volts.
You may have to open the motor and bring a wire out to use your "hockey stick" switch, or else use a second switch for on/off.
Let me cogitate on it for a little while longer and I shall return
1/3 horsepower would run fine on 115 volts but it wouldn't make the wiring job any easier- it's the darn Dayton internal configuration plus the switch you have that makes this particular hookup difficult.
-Mark

 

[markba633csi]

If you want to keep the current drum switch, and you don't like the idea of adding a second switch for on/off, here is one possible solution, regardless of the supply voltage you plan to use:
You would need to open the motor and disconnect the left side of the internal centrifugal switch and bring it out on the unused terminal #6
I don't know how hard that will be- the connection may be a riveted strap or some such mechanical situation.
It may be easier to bring out the yellow wire instead. You won't know till you get in there.
The other option is to buy a different switch. Normally the "hockey stick" is the ideal one but not with this motor I'm afraid. Good ol' Dayton.
-Mark

 

[pbiYoung]

Alright....
So a Dayton switch that doesn't work with a Dayton motor.... genius engineering.

Well then if extracting the yellow wire proves to be a relative simple task then how would the switch be wired to the motor?

Thank you Mark.

-Robert

 

[pbiYoung]

Pretty simple... yellow unplugs from back of L2 terminal.

 

[markba633csi]

I'll do a complete sketch for you tomorrow, stay tuned
Configure the motor for the high voltage case with the exception of the yellow, leave that one hanging out
-M

 

[markba633csi]

It's fortunate the yellow wire was easy to access. This diagram should work for you. You will need to extend the yellow wire.
Be sure to provide a ground (not shown)
If the motor rotation is opposite the switch handle, swap the wires at switch terminals 2 and 6

 

[pbiYoung]

Okay
Thanks for you help Mark. This hopefully will work with what I have now.
Just to confirm..... I have attached a modified drawing of the motor schematic with the way i need to wire it up to the type of switch i have.
Please give it a look and let me know if i goofed it up somewhere.. It still seems to me that the motor would start in the same direction with either switch position, but i don't fully understand how a starting winding works either so that may be my issue.

Robert