Dumb question on R8 (i think) spindle

Thanks for all the ideas folks I haven't forgotten about any of them but have yet to find time for the protractor / prussian blue check on the spindle.

I did try quickly knocking down high points with a light filing and fully removing the sheared off setscrew and got the same results as before.
 
I blued the inside of the spindle bore and set an R8call it by hand then gave it a few taps with a dead blow. It certainly does not look to make very nice contact.

IMG_9606.jpg


IMG_9605.jpg
 
Is that two sides of the same insertion?
Looks like the one side is making ok contact but the other side is barely touching at all. That doesn’t make any sense if it’s concentric.
If you have a set of bore gauges it would be good to measure the bore at the top of the taper and at the nose.
That would give you a rough approximation of the size which you could compare to the R8 taper spec.

I think I recall that you tried MT tapers right?
 
Did you have a pin or endmill in there?
 
r-mm said:
I blued the inside of the spindle bore and set an R8call it by hand then gave it a few taps with a dead blow. It certainly does not look to make very nice contact.
Click to expand...
I would suggest that you use the drawbar for the bluing test in order to get straighter seating of the collet in the spindle.

Tom
 
There is no end mill in the Collett for the test. I can redo it using the drawbar
 
Grizzly was kind enough to send me photos of the replacement spindle they sell. I’ve already checked that the bearing sizes and spanner nut match those from my Enco. The only difference I can see between my spindle and the replacement is that it appears the base of the drive splines are threaded on the replacement?

The photos with the bearing still attached are my existing spindle

IMG_9672.jpg
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IMG_9709.jpg
 
Is there another bearing they goes there that used a bit there for preload?
 
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