Dumb question on R8 (i think) spindle

The photo https://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachments/345873/ shows a threaded opening. Does this lead to a dog type set screw?
That is a hole for a pin spanner, to hold the spindle while changing collets.
Atleast on my Grizzly it is.
His seems to be the same spindle quill as a Grizzly, but the spindle seems different.
Looking at the way things fit, I am thinking it is a MT4 spindle bore.
 
That then means you have to have the quill down to change collets & tooling??
I'm going to guess that's a substitute for a brake?
Sorry for not knowing this stuff. The only mill I've run has been a BP clone.
 
Not familiar with what exact pattern this mill is, and shots are too narrow to ID it.........but R8 needs the spindle up to access drawbar. R8 appears in bench top mill drills, the 3/4 size Rockwells & Clausings, of course standard 12" knee Bridgeport pattern, and the larger version 16" knee. And not much else.
Flats on the spindle nose mean something different. Morse or Brown & Sharpe for milling, a drawbar insures against the cutter helix pulling the sleeve out. Hard for me to envision a knockout 100% reliable milling; drilling naturally is world standard, using the tang as the drive connection.

While a zillion machines had B&S taper, they were horizontals. It was unsuitable for compact designs [ie Bridgeport spindle is restricted by knee] as it is just silly long. Great alignment and drive transmission but not very forward thinking.
Morse, B&S and some others are known as self holding tapers, compared to self releasing like 30, 40 or 50 NMTB [aka NM], or CAT. They need drive lugs on spindle to engage notches on holder. The shape means easy withdrawal, even tilting to avoid obstructions. CAT wouldn't exist without such a feature.

BTW, NM and CAT are almost interchangeable; some CAT are threaded smaller for retention knobs, not matching drawbars, others are.
 
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I hear that
<snipped>
Sorry for not knowing this stuff. The only mill I've run has been a BP clone.
and

That makes 2 of us!

ALL the time.
Just makes my mentor-mode kick into gear. It's not your fault; when vocational education disappeared, so did exposure to the work what makes the world go 'round. 2-3 generations watch 'How It's Made', Orange County Choppers whatever and think they have a handle on it. Same folks endorse off-shore manufacturing.
WRONG!
 
Mt4 is too large
Mt3 is too small

My scope doesnt love to close focus but the spindle bore looks rough to me.

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I have the gear off at the top (101-103) How should I remove the spindle itself?

IMG_9202.png
 
I can not help much, never had one apart, but sleeve (104) needs to come off.
Looks like you need to get to (107) snap-ring.
 
104 is the part I am most unclear on. I thought it might slide off or move with a few taps from a dead blow but so far I cannot convince it to. I would prefer not to remove the entire quill but maybe I have to.
 
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