Guess safest to drop the quill. Its dumb but the only reason I hesitate is Enco appears to have used body filler and painted over the seam in the side cap 115+154 and I know its gonna chip and look crappy after oh well will do my best.
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Dumb question on R8 (i think) spindle
- Thread starter r-mm
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2019
- Messages
- 6,570
Before you tear it apart, have you taken any measurements of the inside to see if they approximate an R8 or MT taper?
Likewise assemble the intended collet and drawbar. Measure from the edge of the taper in the collet to where on the drawbar it would bear on the spindle. Compare that the actual distance from spindle nose to bearing surface on the top of the spindle.
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2019
- Messages
- 6,570
Are you able to better see inside the taper now?
Yes I am but I still do not have a definitive answer. Without a doubt the taper is ugly. It looks as though there was calling and spinning of collects in the past. I gave it a light pass to knock down the high points but still the are eight Collett do not draw in nicely with finger pressure or the drawbar. At this point my two choices are
1. a new spindle from grizzly for $300. The bearing sizes seem to be the same between the two machines but I have no guarantee it will fit without modification
2. Look for someone to re-grind or repair my spindle. I have no idea whatsoever what this would cost or how difficult it would be. I am not far from Bridgeport Connecticut and there are still a lot of job shops around.
Any thoughts?
1. a new spindle from grizzly for $300. The bearing sizes seem to be the same between the two machines but I have no guarantee it will fit without modification
2. Look for someone to re-grind or repair my spindle. I have no idea whatsoever what this would cost or how difficult it would be. I am not far from Bridgeport Connecticut and there are still a lot of job shops around.
Any thoughts?