Empire State Arms 32 Cal Revolver Help

[pjf134]

I have a break open revolver that the cylinders do not index right. 20 years ago it cost more to fix than the gun was worth. Now I do want to fix it and was curious on what do I expect when I take it apart. Is there a spring that would fly out and a ball bearing also? Does anyone have any insite on this type of firearm?
Paul
Paul

 

[Silverbullet]

It probably will need the feed pawl , the sharp little foot rotates the cylinder . And of course without seeing the cylinder it's cut notches may be worn also. First open the barrel action . Then remove the grips . After that the side plate , it will show which side . Don't cock or mess with the trigger or close the barrel. This should let you open it with nothing jumping out. There may be a small spring on the feed pawl it it's broken it won't function correctly. If you need the pawl , or cylinder work you'll need to dismantle farther . The hammer spring will be under the grips don't remove unless you have too. Flat springs aren't to bad but some coil springs are a pita. Hope this helps.

 

[pjf134]

The pawl that rotates the cylinder seems to be working somewhat and I plan to remove cylinder to check it and the sides to check the other parts. By checking on the net it seems that the cylinder is loose until ready to fire and it locks in place. I will try to fire it when I check the parts and use some 32's with just primers in them. I will have to get some empty 32's since I do not have any of those, but mostly all other calibers. Wish me luck.
Paul

 

[AJB]

Empire State is an example of a firearm made by one company then marketed under other brand names. I think your revolver was made by Meriden then sold under the Empire State brand name. Numrich has parts in stock with pictures, so you can get an idea of what is on the inside. It may be, however, that the revolver is working properly. Some of these low end revolvers don't lock up tight until the trigger is fully to the rear. Beware though, as they sometimes don't align properly and will "spit" lead out of the side at the barrel/cylinder junction.

I don't think you'll have any springs flying across the room, but there is only one way to find out for sure. That is by taking it apart. In my experience, it is usually harder to reassemble.

 

[Billh50]

When unsure if springs will fly when taking something apart. I usually put the item in a box when opening them up. That way I have a better chance of everything staying in the box instead of flying around the room.

 

[Silverbullet]

Ajb is right about the lock up , the best way to tell is cock the trigger and the cylinder should be locked in line for firing . If it moves slowly pull hammer a bit farther to see if it does fully line up. If it doesn't you'll need the lockup part or may need fitting to let it or make it lock. Yes it probably is Meriden , forhand arms , Harrington Richardson . In the early days any hardware store or other could order the guns with there name on them. I own several of these old babies.

 

[pjf134]

After cocking the trigger it seams to line up right before it fires. It is very tight and needs some lube for sure. Once open I did have a hard time closing, so it will need some work for sure before using. This gun was made by many different arms company's so it is hard to tell who made the one I have. From what I found Meriden made these until 1915 then got taken over by another company and Sears even made these for awhile. I did try to look up by serial numbers but no luck so far. There are no patent numbers or caliber markings on gun so I think it might be older model since the ones I have seen on the net have those numbers.
Paul

 

[AJB]

Paul,

It sounds like the cylinder lockup is as it should be. As to closing, is it hard when the top strap latch hits the receiver? If so, it may be normal as well.

Tony

 

[Silverbullet]

Yes that's about normal with most of the cheaper made top brakes. If you can find it , gunslick has a black graphite lube that is super for guns. If you have any area sticky or tight squeeze a little and work it in. I've smoothed out trigger Sears on guns without ever stoning them just working a tiny bit in the moving parts.

 

[pjf134]

I did start to clean the gun up and it is looking a lot better and it seams to be moving better too. I still have some more to do, but I am happy it is working out and looking better too. I am just polishing it up with a dremmel until the battery needed charged today. Back at it tomorrow maybe. I do have to find some 32 S&W fired cases so I can use just primers to see how it works before the real ammo.
Paul