Enco 100-5200 knee mill is home - clean up and projects

r-mm

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Thanks to all who gave me feedback on this mill - I brought it home today thanks to a very helpful seller, my dad's Frontier, a HF engine hoist and equally awesome neighbors. I don't have the head on it yet but got the painted surfaces all cleaned it up. It looks like its in great original condition with little use. The ways look nice with a little surface rust but no irregularities. Looking for guidance on cleaning and lubricating them and the screws.

Does anyone have a PDF uses manual or parts diagram for this mill?

Rus in CT
 

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Well done!
Looks like you got a really decent machine :)


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I am happy with it!

I think re wiring is actually the first order of business. The jumpers on the motor were set for 240 however the machine had incoming 120 and a common household light switch, wired poorly. I’d like to use a reversible drum switch as below. I am educating myself about single phase motor wiring. Has anybody done this? Were these machines reversible from the factory ?

Drum Switches, Maintained, Single/Three Phase, 4.5" High x 2.4" Wide





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I am attaching a copy of the manual I found on the web for my Enco 100-1527. The switch setup and wiring starts on page 68. Hope this helps.
 

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Thanks! I am still trying to wrap my head around the wiring diagram on p69 - think I'll make it there.

I'm also curious to hear the forum's thoughts on starting up with tooling. The mill came with a nice vice, chuck and some Enco branded step clamps but thats about it. I believe an R8 collet set is in order at the very least but even there I'm not certain what sizes/graduations would be necessary. For the lathe this is quite clear as the collet is holding the work but for the Mill I'm frankly uncertain how many different shank size endmills one uses. Again... I'm getting started here. Want some things on hand so I can experiment but when I come up with a project for the mill I'm sure my questions will be much clearer.
 
I'd think at a minimum for collets you would want 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" if you are planning on using them to hold end mills. Possibly 1/8" and 1/16" if you might use very small endmills. From what I've seen, unlike drill bits end mills tend to stick to common size shanks with the cutter undersize or even oversize in some cases. Anything with a shank over 1/2" will probably be too much for that mill, but there may be some exceptions where larger will be handy. Also don't cheap out on the collets, excessive runout will shorten the life of your endmills as well as reducing accuracy. Good thing for you it looks like you can get good quality R-8 collet sets fairly cheap, a lot less than the MT2 collets my mill uses.

You could also look at endmill holders. I use collets, but endmill holders are technically the correct tool for the job.

If you don't have one, a Noga arm (or similar) that can be held in the spindle of the mill is very useful for indicating the head and vise.

Noga flex holder

Also you will want a set of parallels to use with your vise, and an edge finder is helpful.


There are tons of nice to have things, but assuming you have the basic tools from your lathe, these are the main things I can think of to get you started with the mill.

Have fun, I have found that many of the skills from the lathe transfer to the mill, but the mill brings a lot more required learning. It is not just a lathe standing on end.
 
Thanks! For the lathe I got some relatively no name Er32 collets and had good success with them, but maybe runout is a bit less critical there because i can turn the work clean.

I’ve found Shars branded mics to be a reasonable compromise between no name
Ebay and Mitutoyo and see they offer an R8 set. SHARS 1/8" - 7/8" by 16TH 13 Piece Precision R8 Collet Set 202-5134 S[ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081K98K5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_0GMUFbD6WK21B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

So does ‘HFS’ from whom I believe I got some lathe accessory which I cant recall now.

HFS (R) 11 Piece R8 Collet Set (1/8-3/4 Inch By 16THS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NFD58S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_RHMUFb8PTAWHS
 
That on/off switch is pretty deluxe :p You could leave is for posterity or remove it with a machete before it grows.
congratulations on the new mill!
 
Is it right to presume that all the fasteners on this mill would be metric originally? I don’t know what’s original and what’s not but the three bolts and nuts securing the head to the column were 1/2-13. they’re chewed up so i am going to replace them with high strength M 12-1.75
 
Is it right to presume that all the fasteners on this mill would be metric originally? I don’t know what’s original and what’s not but the three bolts and nuts securing the head to the column were 1/2-13. they’re chewed up so i am going to replace them with high strength M 12-1.75

No. Don't presume. My RF30 is Taiwanese, but uses a lot, maybe all imperial fasteners. They were built for specific markets and the fasteners were spec'd accordingly.

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