Enco 105-1110 - what is it worth

[hughfree]

I am trying to place a value on this machine (see attached photos). I am new to milling but have always wanted to learn and this looked like a good option for an entry level machine. There a couple of things that concerned me.
1. The unit has a fair amount of lash in the y axis screw (I think that is the correct terminology).
2. The rack used for adjusting the head vertically up and down is locked up. When you turn the crank the rack moves up and down, not the head.
3. The automatic feed is not working.
The quill is stable, no play at all.

He was asking $900. I was thinking more like $450. I would appreciate any guidance offered.

 

[Nutfarmer]

For a dill mill??? Look for a real mill.

 

[matthewsx]

The RF30 is a decent machine that can do good work.

A knee mill is nice if you have the space and budget but plenty of folks on here make good use of the RF30 platform.

I paid $800 for the one I had and it was in a little better shape than this one but no power feed. Don’t know if you can fix the one on there but they’re pretty simple machines and plenty of parts are available.

I’d probably go $650 for that one but I don’t know your market. If you’ve just started looking give it a little more time unless you need something right now.

John

 

[mmcmdl]

Notice the end mill in the drill chuck .

 

[hughfree]

Guys - Thanks to the one reply that helped. For those who would like to take shots at a newbie, I freely admit that I don't know what I don't know. I stated that this is my first endeavor into machining. I see this machine replacing my Craftsman floor-mounted drill press with the advantage of having some milling capabilities. I hope to spend money on a nice lathe....primarily because an experienced machinist was kind enough to offer a newbie advice on what type of machine to purchase first instead of shaming him for his lack of knowledge.

 

[mmcmdl]

Guys - Thanks to the one reply that helped. For those who would like to take shots at a newbie

No shots were meant and shouldn't be taken that way . Just pointing out that there are better deals and better machines on the market . The comment about the end mill in the drill chuck is related to safety issues . A drill chuck isn't made for lateral forces .

 

[hughfree]

Thanks mmcmdl.....like I said, I don't know what I don't know. I hope to learn as I go.

 

[mmcmdl]

It's very hard to determine a price on a machine from a picture only . To see it and actually run it tells a lot about the condition . If he would take $450 I think I would jump on it if it suits your needs . A drill press will run you that with no milling capacities . I see R8 spindle also which is good !

 

[RichR]

Hi hughfree
I have a much older (March 1986) version of that model.

2. The rack used for adjusting the head vertically ...

That sounds like you didn't unlock the head first. Look at my second image.
See the big silver nuts and the black handle. I have to loosen them before I
can raise or lower the head. Once loosened, the head will also rotate.

I can see the bolt heads on yours (image 3) between the crank and the motor.
The nuts should be on the opposite side.

Notice the end mill in the drill chuck

Don't worry about that. That machine also take R8 collets. I see a couple of
them lying on the mills table. If you raise the quill all the way, the nut for the
draw bar should become visible in the middle of the pulley.

It looks like that has the 28" long table which is nice. I've seen a version with
a much shorter table, around 16"-20" I think.

1. The unit has a fair amount of lash in the y axis screw ...

Mine was the same way when it was given to me. As I recall, something had
come loose under the saddle. After taking it apart and assembling it correctly,
The backlash was down to a normal 10-15 thousands.

I've attached a PDF of a project I did for my friends sailboat.

 

[hughfree]

Thanks Rich! Very helpful.