Enco 110-0820 In need of TLC

[Ajroberts2020]

Hello all fist post, hopefully many more to come.

I have been sitting on a used (broken) Enco 110-0820, with base, that my friend couldn't afford to fix at the time and I picked it up for free. I have all the parts that I know are broken (I bought them from Enco almost 7 years ago). After moving 1/2 way across the US. I now have a little time and a tiny amount of money to try and repair this thing.

I have found the manual enco-110-0820.pdf (this link is just one of the same document I have found everywhere)

Here are my questions along with pictures.

1, What bolts are used to mount the lathe to the base?

2, I got grease for the ways, and the lubrication guide in the manual shows several places to Grease/Oil, but what lubricants are these? I've read that you shouldn't use Automotive Oil.

3, I have used steel wool and automotive oil to remove most of the rust. Is there something better to use to keep it from rusting again? I was planning on using paste wax like I use on my woodworking machines.

4. Does anyone have a better description of how to correctly wire this thing? I would like the ground to be connected if possible.

Once I get it running. I plan on learning to cut threads (I hear the ladies love to hear this from guys). I won't ask questions about this till I get the thing working.

 

[Silverbullet]

Way oil for the lathe , no grease . A tacky gear oil on the exposed gears and oil in the gits oilers . Don't think it needs special mounting bolts from bed to cabinet. Yes the lathe should be ground , is it three phase or straight 110 - 220 volt single phase. Either way add a ground if non supplied on the machine. Wax works but lanolin n mineral spirits works for rust . Oily rags do to just don't pile them up . Get a copy of Manuel or comparative model to find all oil sites n lube point. Good luck with her .

 

[middle.road]

To save some $$$, just grab some ISO46 or ISO68 hydraulic oil to use on the ways, from Tractor Supply or Rural King, etc.
It's not a spanking new machine and ISOxx would be fine.
Hydraulic oil is non-detergent and that is what you want on a machine tool.
Stay away from vehicle motor oils and lubes.
No grease, it attracts swarf and chips and that causes problems.

Going to need to see some picts of that busted cross-slide and perhaps the spares you purchased if you can.
Looks to be in pretty good shape over all.

 

[Ajroberts2020]

Thank you both for information. I found this Booklet on Lathes and have been reading it tonight. I do know lots of this stuff, just blowing off 30 years of dust. The FAQ section asks one of the same question I did, and yet doesn't really answer it.

Here is the Link to the Manual in Engrish that I have found all over the place. Lathe Manual

Quoting the 1st linked document "Lathe Mounting What size bolts should be used for mounting my lathe to my workbench surface. 12mm Diameter x whatever length is necessary to go through your surface. Washers and locking type nuts are recommended. Tighten the headstock side only (not excessively) and just snug the tailstock side so as not to warp the bed and twist the ways"

It does seem to be 12mm of some kind. I tried 12mm-1.25, 12mm-1.5 and 12mm-1.75 bolts. The 12mm-1.5 bolts seem to go in the best but still seem to bind up in less than 3 turns.

It's a single phase machine, I am going to replace the wiring to the condenser with a 4-wire hookup and ground the ground to the frame. I'm a little on the paranoid side.

Related to the Lubrication question.... How much (hydraulic) oil do I put in these little cups?

 

[middle.road]

Those oil caps might just be 'straight-through' drippers where they don't really fill up, they just drip oil onto the change gears.
I don't see any type of wicking in the parts diagrams.

Can the threaded holes be chased with a m12x1.5 tap?

 

[Ajroberts2020]

When I read this, I was on my way to buy metric Taps, got a whole set for $19 at Harbor Freight... Chasing the threads worked.

I picked up some kerosene to use as a cleaning agent and some ISO68 hydraulic Oil too.

I wired the a 220V 3 wire outlet to a 20 AMP Breaker in my sub-panel. After looking into the electronics on the machine, it looks like there are 2 hots and a ground (I almost wired the outlet for a neutral instead of a ground). I have attached some pictures and the manual page, if anyone knows if this is wired wrong. The breaker blows every time, after about 3 to 10 seconds (and the machine is really noisy).

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[markba633csi]

Sounds like it's actually wired for 120v- did it come with a 240v plug?
Assuming the switch wiring is correct (which is not certain) I would try it on 120 volts first.
Tip: mark the switch wire locations with masking tape labels so you'll have a record of how it was originally wired, in case you have to dig into the rat's nest

 

[RobertB]

I would take the cover off of the motor terminal box and see if there is a connection diagram in there showing 120 vs 240 wiring connections to confirm which way it is wired.

 

[markba633csi]

Not sure I follow you when you said "replace the wiring to the condenser with 4-wire hookup"
I assume you are referring to the motor start capacitor?
Mark

 

[Ajroberts2020]

Not sure I follow you when you said "replace the wiring to the condenser with 4-wire hookup"
I assume you are referring to the motor start capacitor?
Mark

Yes, I missed that, when I first looked at this, it looked like the machine needed a Common wire, But I have since realized it doesn't. The 3 Wire solution will work just fine.

I'm getting closer, just taking more parts off than I wanted to. I made the assumption that the way I got it was correctly wired for 220v as the plug end was obviously 220v.