[How-To] Enco 110-1351 CNC conversion

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Alright, I figured I'd get into some lathe work. . . So I went and bought an ENCO 110-1351 that had its own home made CNC on it. Was sold to me as working order. Figured great, I'll get to start playing around!

NOPE. hahahaha. Which is all good. Massive learning curves are fun.

So, machine wouldn't talk to the computer at all. I figure I'll just build my own. Which went well up until spindle control!

Okay, to the root of the problem. I cannot find a wiring diagram so I am limited to what I can see in front of me and touch with a meter.

I have a cherry hall sensor on spindle, wired to a DB25 board. (Photo attached)

I wired:

GND - GND
Sensor - P10
Power - PWM 0-10 Spindle Speed

Now, inside the lathe is where I am a bit lost. I have to wire the motor in and wire in relays that take signal from the board to turn spindle on/off and reverse.

I have attached a nice grade 3 drawing of what I can see for wiring (haha sorry in advance).

The lines go as follow:

Blue to wall- R - km1 (T3)

Brown to wall - S - km1 (T2)

Z2

Black from motor- Z1 - km1 (T1)

Brown to motor - V2 - bottom left amp board -
top amp R2 - km3 (T1)/km2(T1)

Blue from motor- U1 - bottom right on amp board - S2 (top right amp board) - km3(T3)/km2(T3)

Blue wire from switches - 7 - paired - km3 (T2)
Black wire to relays - 7 - paired -

Brown wire to relays - 13 - km2(t2)

Blue from switches - 5 - paired - amp dial
Red wire to relay - 5 - paired -
Blue from relay - 4 - paired -

Red from switches - 4 - paired - jumped

Red from switches - 3 - km1 (t1)

White to switches - 2 - fuse- 14
From fuse - 14 - Brown into switches

Brown to switches - 15 - km1 (t1)

White from switches - 0 - pin labeled 5 on yellow thing and A2 on bottom of KM1

I then have the amp boards (gordos SSR 120 - 32s) (see photo)

Brown goes to top left (120) - red top right (10amp) (jumper to right side of second SSR)

Green wire spindle to input

Bottom right Red jumper to bottom right on second relay

Black to top left (120) Blue to top right (10amp)
White wire spindle to input
Jumper on bottom right to left side SSR

One of the wires in the lathe box is intercepted and run to the relays so that the computer can turn on/off the KM1 - KM3 (I don't know what they are... relays as well?)

I attached the only wiring thing I could find for the ENCO and also the wiring diagrams with the motor.

Hopefully someone's got some insite into how to wire the motor to the lathe using the relays haha!

Thanks,

Kyle
 

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Hi and welcome.

Sounds like quite a project, would be good to see pictures of the whole thing.

One thing I can see is you’re using one of the cheap Chinese controllers. My CNC mill drill uses a similar board and I haven’t been able to make it do spindle control so I can’t help with that.

However, from what I’ve learned I would have started with a better control board, I have a Mesa Electronics board for the next control box I’m building. So, it may be worth your while to stop where you are and redesign from the board out.

There are great resources here, particularly @JimDawson who lives and breathes this stuff.

John
 
Hi and welcome.

Sounds like quite a project, would be good to see pictures of the whole thing.

One thing I can see is you’re using one of the cheap Chinese controllers. My CNC mill drill uses a similar board and I haven’t been able to make it do spindle control so I can’t help with that.

However, from what I’ve learned I would have started with a better control board, I have a Mesa Electronics board for the next control box I’m building. So, it may be worth your while to stop where you are and redesign from the board out.

There are great resources here, particularly @JimDawson who lives and breathes this stuff.

John
Thanks John,

The enco is a gear head lathe so I'll just be turning spindle on and off with it (and reverse direction). No actual speed control that I'm aware of through the hook ups.

The other part is an x axis motor and z axis. So hopefully the board will be okay.

Haven't actually tested the board yet since the motor isn't wired in haha! If it doesn't work then I'll look into better boards.

My drivers are Geckos (G320 DC servo drivers), running through two power supplies.
 

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Same basic lathe I have except mine is belt drive.

Servos are nice, my mill is steppers so I don’t have any positioning feedback. These little boards are definitely a bargain, that’s why I used one.

What software are you running? I’m using Linux CNC but may change things up later. Glad to have gotten the machine up and running with what I had but upgrading stuff has driven the cost of my project beyond my initial budget by a fair bit.

John
 
Here’s my project. Hope to get back to it soon.

 
Same basic lathe I have except mine is belt drive.

Servos are nice, my mill is steppers so I don’t have any positioning feedback. These little boards are definitely a bargain, that’s why I used one.

What software are you running? I’m using Linux CNC but may change things up later. Glad to have gotten the machine up and running with what I had but upgrading stuff has driven the cost of my project beyond my initial budget by a fair bit.

John
I looked around and bought two boards actually. One didn't have a 24v power supply for the spindle - which I initially wasn't even going to bother with since being a gear head I have no control over speed anyway!

But, fate had other plans hahahaha, turns out guy I bought it from wired it in to be run from the computer and has no wiring diagram (of course) and hasn't been much help sorting out the wires either.

I got the whole thing for a bargain though. I'm about 3600 all in so far.

If I can wire the motor proper and the board allows me spindle on off and reverse through Mach3 then ill be happy!
 
Let's see a picture inside your contactor box, I may have a schematic for it
Question: where did you get the Diagram 1-page-001.jpg?
-Mark
 
Let's see a picture inside your contactor box, I may have a schematic for it
Question: where did you get the Diagram 1-page-001.jpg?
-Mark
Thanks Mark,

I got that from scouring the internet lol!

Here is the internals

- kyle
 

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The schematic in the back of this manual looks to be very close to yours if not identical- only difference I noticed is your transformer has both 110 and 220 volt taps.
All the major components seem to be shown
-Mark
 

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The schematic in the back of this manual looks to be very close to yours if not identical- only difference I noticed is your transformer has both 110 and 220 volt taps.
All the major components seem to be shown
-Mark
Thanks, I'll speak with my electrician and see what we can figure from this!

Much appreciated!!
 
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