Enco 110-2031 Made in 1988, Motor wiring.

rrbrookie

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I'm a rookie, Resurrecting this lathe that was sitting out in the elements for a few years. Previous owner took the motor(Asian) off to store it inside and decided not to mark any wires so now I'm trying to figure out how to hook the motor back up to 220V. Got 4 blacks (marked 1-4) and 2 reds (not marked) coming out the motor. got 2 blacks and 2 reds coming from the control box. In the control box the blacks are marked U and V, the reds are marked M6 and CW. So what should I be hooking to what at the motor to prevent a melt down? Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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Hi, the black motor wires should connect 1 and 4 to the incoming two blacks (either way) in first picture. 2 and 3 should connect together and insulate. Reds connect to reds (either way). That's my best educated guess. If motor direction is backwards from desired, swap either reds or blacks.
Try that and report back. If it doesn't work we can do some tests
-Mark
 
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Welcome rrbrookie,
How about a peak at that lathe.
 
I'm baaaaaack, So Mark, you were correct, hooked it up that way and it ran perfectly. There was alot of accumulated crud on the screw and forward/reverse rod so I was running the lathe and gently wire wheeling the screw and rod. Must have been to much crud cause after a bit the motor gave out, burst into smoke and toasted. I would like to say thats why it was laying in the guys yard but I think it has more to do with my 50 AMP welding circuit I had it plugged into, the only 220V (at that time) I had in the shop. So now that I have it cleaned up I'm looking for a replacement motor that isn't going to break the bank. I remember seeing where somebody was installing a Marathon motor but can't find that article anywhere. And I'm still going to need to figure out how to hook it up cause I got 2 black wires and 2 red wires coming from the control box with only the L1 and L2 on the future 220V motor. Any help is much appreciated.
 

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I would inspect the original motor carefully, it may be just a 20$ capacitor that failed. Take the motor off and open it up is what I would do first. You have to take it off anyway, right? :) I'm guessing the run capacitor sprayed out bug juice everywhere, but it could be a bad winding
You would want to check the windings with a multimeter for shorts also, I can advise you
-M
Your motor is probably a overseas mounting style but motors can be adapted with some ingenuity if the original is beyond saving
ps I like the belts: "First Rope" must be a historical reference; first rope, then V-belts LOL bad joke
 
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The original Chinese motor filled the whole garage with smoke, blew the 50 AMP breaker and just toasted. My garage still stinks. It was bad. Typical for one of my endeavors. I acquired a 1 HP Dayton (just so I could run the lathe to see if there were other issues) that had been sitting out side for a decade and it fired right up on 110V. We took it apart to install a better bearing and now it will not start on either 110 or 220. Just hums and will eventually blow the 110 CB or my new 20 amp 220 v CB. I used the electric motor forum and got in the back and cleaned up the switch but to no avail. So since that Dayton is just a test motor a little shy of the 1 1/2HP I was thinking on just biting the bullet and dip into the food budget and get a problem free motor. I found one on Northern Tool I think will work but I don't understand how the whole AC reverse thing works with only an L1 and an L2 lead on the motor. Should I be looking at an "instant reversing motor"? I could stand to loose a few pounds anyway.
 
Some "before laying in the previous owners yard pictures"
 

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Sorry for the motor problems, reversing setups usually need a minimum of 3 motor wires for 220v and usually 4 for 110
You have L1, L2 coming in, then it splits into a run circuit and a start circuit. The start leg wires are swapped to reverse.
Hard to beat a brand new motor if you can afford it, just be sure you get one that's reversible by swapping two wires.
Shame that lathe was so neglected- ouch. I know it's dry in Arizona (got a brother in Phoenix) but not that dry
 
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I've been looking at a 2 HP 1800 RPM 115 or 230V motor at Harbor Freight. The motor can turn CW or CCW according to the downloadable instructions. Figured its and Asian lathe, it can have an Asian motor. They did give the motor a very American sounding name though, Smith and Jones. So can anybody (Mark) tell me if this motor can be hooked up so the reversing switch will work like its supposed to? I have the two blacks marked U and V and 2 reds marked M6 and M5 and a ground. I'm just going to stick with 115V cause I haven't run the 220 to that side of the shop yet. Again, any help would be appreciated
 

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