Enco 110-2034 Wiring Help!

spitfire_er

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I recently picked up an enco 110-2034 12X36" lathe. It's in otherwise good shape and runs good when it's directly wired to the motor, as it was when I got it.

Original motor has been replaced with a Marathon 1.5 hp 110/220v motor. The lathe is a 1995 vintage. I have a couple questions. I want to wire it back to 220v. The transformer, I'm assuming needs to be on 220 and 0 and 24 and 0 on the other side.

I am also wondering about wiring the motor. I understand the 220v wiring for the motor, but I have Z1, Z2, V1 and V2 going to the motor. Not sure exactly how to wire those guys together. Any help or guidance would be appreciated.

IMG_20180409_222607613 (Small).jpgIMG_20180409_222614782 (Small).jpg

IMG_20180409_222647219 (Small).jpg

IMG_20180409_223006137 (Small).jpg
 
Normally you would have 4 wires to the motor: one pair for the run winding(s) and one for the start leg
Let's see the motor nameplate and we can help you connect it
Mark
ps it looks like your contactors are 110 not 24 so you would leave it connected like the photo
 
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Just bought pretty much the same lathe! The electronics are pretty simple once you get into it. The motor is a single phase reversible motor which uses a pair of capacitors to start the motor in different directions. The pair of white devices with "Beng Bu" on them are contactors (pretty much a big relay). The transformer takes 240/220 and turns it into 120/110 which is passed through all the switches on the the machine and back to the coils on the contactors. When the coil is energized the contactor pulls in and connects the line (labeled 1,3,5) to the load (labeled 2,4,6).

In your wiring diagram photo, the two small circles in the bottom right with "M1" and "M2" close the -| |- contacts at the top of the drawing. All you need to do is match the wired on the bottom of the contactors to the cables going out to the motor following the diagram. (Ps. The motor will not have separate connections for V1 and V2 or Z1 and Z2, so those are tied together in the panel). EDIT: I'm looking at my motor and it does have separate connections! Whoops!

Edit: Here is a picture of my motor nameplate:
IMG_0139.jpg

Unfortunately my panel was crushed before I got the lathe, so I will be rebuilding a new one from scratch :(
 
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Here is the motor ID tag and wiring. I hooked it up this way the other day. It was directly wired when I got it for 110V. I know I have the correct wires grouped together off the motor for 220V, but not sure which wires from the lathe go to where. I have seen a few photos of lathes that only use 3 of those wires from the box and one gets capped. Reminder, that I want 220V wiring. Again, any help would be appreciated.IMG_20180411_173431648_BURST000_COVER_TOP (Small).jpgIMG_20180411_173510708 (Small).jpg

IMG_20180411_173457263_LL (Small).jpg
 
For 220 volts operation:
V1- Blue
V2- Yellow
Z1- Red
Z2- no connect (insulate)
orange, black, white- connect together and insulate
transformer on 220 volt input tap- 110 volt output tap
Mark
If motor backwards disconnect Red from Z1 and connect to Z2 instead
 
Ok, WOW! That had to be the quickest electrical repair I've ever done. Running like a charm now.

Now I just need to repair/replace the back gear that I just found was missing several teeth!
 
Great to hear!

Good news about the back gear is that Grizzly has one in stock for $102. No guarantee it’s identical, but I bet it is. Count the teeth to make sure. Lots of people with stories of broken back gears on this lathe. Not sure why.

When i got mine, the back gears were only meshing about 10% and would skip when i twisted the spindle. After some adjustment they feel very solid now.

Mike
 
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