Enco 13X40 Cracked Top Slide Way

TIG silicon bronze, ala this old tony, looks like it is helpful for low distortion build-ups. Maybe a combination of the screw and silicon bronze. I have had some luck with soft solder. Keep all contact areas large using plates/pins, and keep the flame off the interface. Brownell Hi Force 44 is good stuff and flows well with the correct flux. One may say that it is only good for about 10000psi or so, but that goes a long way with a plate and/or pins.
 
countersunk some allen heads in with red loctite to fix the crack

Followed along with Keith Rucker videos and milled the carriage. Milled both sides in one setup so hopefully they are parallel. Indicated it in on the mill with the side that faces the chuck to try and get the geometry correct.

Did some surface grinding to clean up the cross slide and top of carriage.

Milling the dovetails cleanup most of the surfaces except a bit where the crack was.
 
Very wise to avoid heating......even a slight warping would prevent the saddle sitting square on the bed.....I dont think the area is critical,and could have been removed entirely from the saddle by milling right across.But even doing that might cause a release of tension in the casting.
 
One of the issues with this lathe is that the lengthwise angle of the gib did not match the angle of the slide. This was before any of my work. Because of milling the dovetails on the carriage and slide a new gib will likely need to be made. But if I can get the angle correct on the old gib, I can use that to hold the new gib at the correct angle for milling and grinding.

Made a gib holder and got the angle close.

Surface grinding the gib with the magnet off, the gib on a block to get the angle correct, and c-clamps holding blocking at either end. Took very light cuts.
 
Andy are you the Andy that took the Class a few years back that DH Mayeron hosted at the Blacksmith shop? Looks good. But as John said I would not braze it and just bolt it down. Most Hobby machinists will never put heavy strain on that part of the machine. It was probably cracked when it came out of the factory. One thing I would do how ever. Before lock-tite-ing it down, I would test the way by either indicating it with mag base mounted on the cross-slide and indicator against the repaired dovetail and test to be sure it isn't high or out of parallel with the rest of the way. You could use 2 dowel pins and a micrometer too. John or someone else maybe set this up and take a picture if he doesn't understand what I'm saying.

Andy I would grind the gib a bit differently. I set another mag chuck on top of the one on the grinder and raise or shim the other chuck with gib magged down, I have a couple of photo's of a gib I ground on a Cross-slide rebuild my son and I did in Oklahoma last September. We gluded Rulon to the cross-slide and scraped both sides. Also the Keith Rucker Video was shot with me standing in the background. He did it when we did a scraping class there a couple of years ago.

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Andy are you the Andy that took the Class a few years back that DH Mayeron hosted at the Blacksmith shop?
Nope, I am the Andy who has signed up for your April 2019 class in Vacaville.
One thing I would do how ever. Before lock-tite-ing it down, I would test the way by either indicating it with mag base mounted on the cross-slide and indicator against the repaired dovetail and test to be sure it isn't high or out of parallel with the rest of the way.
It is already loct-tite-ed down. It was a bit high and tilted inward. The screws pulled it most of the way down. Both dovetails have been milled so there is no going back. I milled both dovetales in one setup so they are somewhat parallel.

I put it back together, shimmed the gib, and tightened it all down as much as I could. Faced a 4 inch square piece of aluminum. Placing a straight edge corner to corner I am just over one thou low in the center. I am hoping this is a good indication of spindle to cross slide alignment.

Andy
 
I took the Richard King class in Vacaville, CA last year. After scraping on my practice block, moved on to the slide. With quite a bit of help from Richard, and my classmates we were able to get the two parts pretty flat and correctly sized. Used a small dovetail straightedge belonging to @Rex Walters to blue up the dovetails for scraping.
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After milling, grinding and scraping the contact surfaces of the slide, dovetail and gib, Turcite seemed
like a good option to make up for the missing metal. Warmed the slide with a propane torch to try and
remove any oil. Roughed up the surface, wiped down with acetone, and glued on the Turcite.
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Weighted down the slide with a rotary table
on the surface plate.
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And then back to the surface grinder:
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Andy
 
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