Enco Mill - motor takes a few tries to get to full speed

Getting to the point, I think, where, instead of of everyone trying to guess how long the piece of string is, that you take the motor to a sparky, get him to check the bugger out. You, My Boy, are burning daylight, instead of making chips.
Of course this only seems to make sense when you have spent a dollar or 3 on a motor, that may or not be, completely buggered.
The more you spend on it, before you eventually do get a proper check out, is inversely proportional to the amount you will have saved.
edit. The centrifugal switch should operate also with the end bell on, ie, motor assembled. Honestly, just get it checked out by a bloke "Wot knows wot he's doing".
 
Diecutter said:
I agree. That's what I was trying to say (not very well) by suggesting he take the motor inside and hook it up near the main service panel at 120v, and also try 220v which would eliminate the long wire run to the shop. Just a suggestion since I'm not well versed in motors.
Click to expand...
''Since I know bugger all about motors", why not hook it up to the dog, and if still no good, try the Electric fence.
 
OK, so it got down to neg 24 (before the wind chill), but we are back into the positive temps. I think it could hit 30 today.
I did some testing, and I'm starting to think this COULD be the damn centripetal switch after all.

I fired it up, and it did it's thing - speed up to (I'm guessing 1/4 speed), then bogged down and pulsed.
I turned it off. No click. turned it on and off 3-4 times - no click. after 5-6 tries, it fired up. Let it run for a few seconds. Turned it off, and when motor slowed down, I heard the click of the springs pulling the centripetal switch back.

When I had it on the bench, I checked the assembly, and it seemed like it was moving smoothly. I put a bit of penetrant on the springs, because there was some surface rust, but everything seemed OK. No apparent sticking.

So what specifically should I look for when cleaning up that switch? I've read cleaning contacts. Just use an ignition file, and lightly smooth the contact surfaces?

Tom
 
Mark Needham said:
Getting to the point, I think, where, instead of of everyone trying to guess how long the piece of string is, that you take the motor to a sparky, get him to check the bugger out. You, My Boy, are burning daylight, instead of making chips.
Of course this only seems to make sense when you have spent a dollar or 3 on a motor, that may or not be, completely buggered.
The more you spend on it, before you eventually do get a proper check out, is inversely proportional to the amount you will have saved.
edit. The centrifugal switch should operate also with the end bell on, ie, motor assembled. Honestly, just get it checked out by a bloke "Wot knows wot he's doing".
Click to expand...

Mark, I agree, but honestly...not sure how many shops in the area still repair motors, let alone these Asian jobbers. I'll do some calling. Anyone have any ideas what it could cost to have a motor inspected/cleaned/balanced/tuned up? Is it worth the cost?

-Tom
 
Sounds to me like the start circuit is not closing properly when the motor comes to a stop. This could be a problem with the contacts, the mechanism, or even a poor connection in the start circuit someplace. You would need to do some detective work with an ohmmeter to find it, something that a good motor shop could do in a few minutes. Where are all the good motor shops these days? Unfortunately they seem to be a dying breed
Mark
 
You may want to get a "Bearing Separator and Puller Set." If you use a regular two or 3 arm type puller it may break the pulley. Harbor Frt. has a set with two separators, about $50. No idea if it is any good but better than breaking the pulley. You can also buy the separators separately at industrial supply places but a lot more expensive.

I would also check the internal switch. If the contacts look burned use an ignition file to clean them. Never use abrasives.
 
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