Ender 3 Pro

UPDATE:

Leveled the glass bed twice today using the method defined by Creality. Pretty simple. I aim to try and get the nozzle to just grab the paper. Did a quick test print and basically got the same results, but slightly better as previously posted.

When I loaded up Cura, it flashed a notice that there was an update. After ignoring it initially, I figured it wouldn't hurt to update.

Once updated, I ran a test print:

IMG-5543.JPG

Leveling seemed to help with the print looking evenly squished. However, you can see that there is still a "stitch" across the raft. The stitch occurs in different positions of the clock around the raft.

Conclusion. Paying attention to the leveling helps. Also, it appears that updating Cura (and resetting print configurations in the process) helped bring things back to "normal".

However, the stitching really bothers me and as I watched the X and Y axes, I noticed that the belt on the X was skipping as it went over the stitch. I'll tighten things up tomorrow - but I'm skeptical if that will help. I can't see how a skip could happen every time in the same place and then randomize on each raft like that.
 
vtcnc said:
UPDATE:

Leveled the glass bed twice today using the method defined by Creality. Pretty simple. I aim to try and get the nozzle to just grab the paper. Did a quick test print and basically got the same results, but slightly better as previously posted.

When I loaded up Cura, it flashed a notice that there was an update. After ignoring it initially, I figured it wouldn't hurt to update.

Once updated, I ran a test print:

View attachment 302870
Leveling seemed to help with the print looking evenly squished. However, you can see that there is still a "stitch" across the raft. The stitch occurs in different positions of the clock around the raft.

Conclusion. Paying attention to the leveling helps. Also, it appears that updating Cura (and resetting print configurations in the process) helped bring things back to "normal".

However, the stitching really bothers me and as I watched the X and Y axes, I noticed that the belt on the X was skipping as it went over the stitch. I'll tighten things up tomorrow - but I'm skeptical if that will help. I can't see how a skip could happen every time in the same place and then randomize on each raft like that.
Click to expand...

Was thinking about this last night: why would the stitch move on the clock from raft to raft? I kind of had a "duh" moment after my first coffee and looking at the photo again. When the machine rapids over to the next raft, that include an x move. So naturally, the skip in the axis will move because of the relative positions between the rafts.

I'm going to tighten up the X axis belt and see if that helps.
 
vtcnc said:
Was thinking about this last night: why would the stitch move on the clock from raft to raft? I kind of had a "duh" moment after my first coffee and looking at the photo again. When the machine rapids over to the next raft, that include an x move. So naturally, the skip in the axis will move because of the relative positions between the rafts.

I'm going to tighten up the X axis belt and see if that helps.
Click to expand...
To me the stitch looks the point where the printer shifts from one circle to the next. I'm not familiar with cura but look to see if there is a setting to make the shift between concentric circles happen at a random position instead of all at the same clock position. Also look for a "vase" setting which will print as a continuous spiral.
 
Some thoughts (not sure which you've tried/know about so):
  • Level using a feeler gauge, harder to lose and doesn't compress like a paper scrap. For my printer this ends up happiest with .007 ~ .008
  • Do you need a brim or raft? These are not as critical for PLA as for ABS and others. Try a skirt, which is intended only to "prime" the flow and get a good start on feeding filament. You can also check it while it prints to see if it looks right.
  • Cura has 3 sections - these are in a different location depending on version. On 4.2.1 at least, thesea re under "PREVIEW" - this will show you the toolpath and operations.
  • How are you running print jobs? Once you feel comfortable and the machine is tuned in consider adding a raspberry pi+octoprint.
 
Perhaps lack of sufficient retraction during the move.

Octoprint is great.
 
Well, bed leveling seemed to be everything behind 99% of the problems. That and setting the distance between the nozzle tip and the bed. The only remaining problem I see at this point is the stitching on the rafts. It only appears on rafts and not in the prints themselves. So far so good. Thanks everybody for the help!
 
Now that I worked out some of the leveling bugs, I've been back at it:

My Craftsman bucket topper vacuum creates a bit of a cyclone in my shop. Found this diffuser on Thingiverse. Here is my print:

IMG-5557.JPG


Printed at .28mm layer thickness. Took about three hours. You can see there is still a little stitch on the raft. Fits nearly perfectly in the Craftsman blower port and diffuses the air fairly well - at least better than the jet coming out the back of it.
 
there are things you can do to reduce that seam, but the simplest of them all is to just let the slicer places the seams randomly. Sometimes that's all it needs.
 
I recently purchased an Ender3, used... Some things I did, Converted to glass bed, use Elmers glue stick, purple when applied, see thru shortly after. This helps as you know where you put it... can be quite challenging to get the parts off as they stick that good... There are programs out the to assist with bed leveling, very helpful. To install the glass bed, simply raise the Z axis home switch then adjust bed accordingly. I also changed to Direct Drive extruder. It is theory make a difference, but I am still on the fence as it allowed other issue to rear their ugly heads. I am confident that these issues are a result of ME doing something stupid and not a fault of the machine. I now spend WAYYYYYY too much time watching this thing print stuff and not enough time making stuff for my business....LOL Oh I also replaced the plastic extruder housing with an anodized one... the plastic had many signs of wear...
 
Slicers are a bit like Coffee. Everyone has their favourite brand and most are reluctant to give another brand a go.

Most often in any new slicer you have to set up a profile for your machine: bed size, homing offsets etc. For Ender 3 users, Joe Prusa has just released a new version of his FREE Prusa Slicer with an Ender 3 profile already built in.

Even better Makers Muse has just released a video showing how to dial in the slicer to improve results.
The video is worth watching just for the tips on thinks like number of walls and supports.
 
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