Endmill or something else for 1 inch hole

Just a thought . You really don't need a flat bottom . Why not drill 1/2 hole and turn your shafts to fit and just spot the 1" diameter to be flush ? You are welding it correct ? This is the place to learn , and we're here to help . I'm sure the bashers will be removed or warned on HM . ;):)
 
Sorry for the rant but I feel I need to justify canon building after being abused on another site. Not bashing the other site, they just don’t want to deal with beginners. :boxed in:
Absolutely no need to apologize.
(1) I recall seeing a couple of other posts/threads about cannon builds. Seems like trunnions are often the issue. So you're definitely NOT out of place.
(2) Lots of newbies here. The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked. I wasn't too far beyond being a newbie when I first joined, and I've learned a whole lot.
(3) This forum is friendly to all! Welcome to the fun.
 
Just a thought . You really don't need a flat bottom . Why not drill 1/2 hole and turn your shafts to fit and just spot the 1" diameter to be flush ? You are welding it correct ? This is the place to learn , and we're here to help . I'm sure the bashers will be removed or warned on HM . ;):)
You will still need to machine space for screwing it in tight, right?
 
I wouldn't tap it . Its more of just a locating hole .
 
Make a fixture to hold your tube and use your 16 inch swing lathe to bore the holes. Either swing the tube or swing the cutter(s). Lots of interesting ways to skin this cat. None of them quick but all doable. Not too much you can't do with a good lathe.........bob
 
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Ok I was just interested in the topic of boring a hole like this. But now reading the project I'd love to see pics as it progresses. Sounds like a cool project and I was always thinking of trying one myself. Just curious what technique you use and how it works out for you.
 
I`m not questioning your knowledge, I`m a complete newb but I`d like to ask your reasoning behind using the method you suggested. Since the hole depth is only 1/4" why not just use a 1" centering end mill. The point on a 1" drill is almost 1/4". Would`t it be tough to guess the proper depth to stop with the drill ? and why ground off one side of a 2 flute EM ? I think I know the answer you`ll give but I want to make sure I`m close..LOL

You would spot drill, drill the web size of your 1" drill, then 1" drill to depth. Now that we know the actual purpose, just stop at the 1" drill. This allows a less-than-rigid machine to cut a large hole with the least groaning and grindin' noises.

Since we're dealing with a machine that'll be about as rigid as a well-done spaghetti noodle, and as the original question was how to get a flat-bottomed hole, after drilling to remove as much material as possible with the cheap, easily resharpenable tool, then use the 1" end mill to get the flat bottomed hole. But a 1" end mill will require a LOT more rigidity than the drill bit, as it's not self-centering. Think about using a 1" end mill in a drill press-it isn't likely to come out good. So, we need to lessen the rigidity needed, and the power required to cut, by removing one cutting face-you'd grind the end of the flute back so that only one side of the end mill is cutting-now you've got an accurately sized 1" boring tool without going to the expense of a full boring head, that you couldn't make full use of due to the machine not being up to it.

Also you could use an already broken end mill to do the job and save some cash and a broken tool from the scrap bin.
 
You would spot drill, drill the web size of your 1" drill, then 1" drill to depth. Now that we know the actual purpose, just stop at the 1" drill. This allows a less-than-rigid machine to cut a large hole with the least groaning and grindin' noises.

Since we're dealing with a machine that'll be about as rigid as a well-done spaghetti noodle, and as the original question was how to get a flat-bottomed hole, after drilling to remove as much material as possible with the cheap, easily resharpenable tool, then use the 1" end mill to get the flat bottomed hole. But a 1" end mill will require a LOT more rigidity than the drill bit, as it's not self-centering. Think about using a 1" end mill in a drill press-it isn't likely to come out good. So, we need to lessen the rigidity needed, and the power required to cut, by removing one cutting face-you'd grind the end of the flute back so that only one side of the end mill is cutting-now you've got an accurately sized 1" boring tool without going to the expense of a full boring head, that you couldn't make full use of due to the machine not being up to it.

Also you could use an already broken end mill to do the job and save some cash and a broken tool from the scrap bin.

Thanks for explaining that to me. I get it..
 
AJ, I wouldn't look down on your(our) smaller ,less rigid machines, although it is challenging to find the limits of these tools but there are many of us who have managed to work within those limits and enjoy this hobby.
 
Could first complete the outside of the cannon on the lathe. Drill the one inch hole all the way through the cylinder for the trunions. Then with a rod a little little larger diameter than one inch and cut to finish surface place that through the hole with the freeze/heat techinque. Freeze the trunion, heat the barrel and put them together so that the pressure of the joint when back to temp holds them in place with no welding. That way you get a nice clean look on the outside and secure trunions.

Maybe drill the through hole with sequentially larger drill bits then a one inch reamer (Or reamer a little smaller than one inch so the trunion can be from one inch rod for freeze through? Easier to get nice finish than new size on lathe.)

Then back to the lathe to do the bore with the through trunion in place.

Big signal cannons? One inch cup at the barrel base for powder and 2 inch barrel bore?

Pictures would be great!
 
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