Engine Hoist modification.

middle.road

Granite Stoopid...
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Apr 28, 2014
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I have the Air/Hydraulic cylinder mounted.
Now on to the hanging end.
I'd like to get verification that I'm thinking straight... :grin:
I'm going to modify the end of the boom so that the chain hangs 'free' when UP, so to say.
Looked at several images online and I don't like the chain coming out and bending over the edge of the tube.
Am thinking I should cut out a notch.
The x-hatch white area is what I'm thinking about removing here shortly.
More to follow later, they're are a couple of minor 'cons' to this HF unit, nothing show stopping though.
Thanks for looking.

0630201840_HDR__R.jpg ... 0630201844__R.jpg ... 0630201844a__R.jpg ... 0630201821__R.jpg
 

Jake2465

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I think a super-sick custom machined attachment off the end of the boom that holds the chain would be an order of magnitude better. What's your inner dimensions of that boom and what is the hole diameter for your pin and how far away is that hole center away from the end of the boom?
 

mickri

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Whatever you do has to be equal to or greater than the rated capacity of the hoist. I would use an eye bolt with a shackle to connect the chain to the eye bolt. https://www.e-rigging.com/shoulder-eyebolts. Cutting a notch in the end of the beam will decrease the strength of the beam. I don't know how much. I have seen engineering websites where you can ask how much the notch would decrease the strength and get an answer. Don't have a link for you.
 

Aukai

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My hoist has an oval hole where the chain with the hook comes out from the cross bolt. If the chain hits the oval cutout, the links will change alignment, and I don't see the issue
 

Jake2465

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In all likelihood, the notch being cut will probably do just fine. He has made a point to keep some material to the sides of the notch that will keep the steel from buckling under compressive forces.
 

Shootymacshootface

I make little metal out of big metal.
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Two ways to go here for maximum strength. Cut a 45* angle (or slightly more) on the end to provide clearance for the hook, or slot the top and bottom, insert a bar with a hole for a shackle sticking out the bottom and weld in place.
 

FOMOGO

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Another route would be to cut a length of 1/2" i.d. pipe, drill a hole top to bottom to match the o.d., weld it in place, and put a 1/2" shank eye bolt through form the bottom, with or without a clevis. Mike
 

NortonDommi

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Nov 15, 2016
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What about fabricating an inverted V-shape to fit inside the tube with side plates and a pin through on the neutral axis. Plug weld it in wide side down and cut an opening in the bottom. Fit a short chain with a claw AKA shortening clutch.
This would give a straight pull through the neutral axis, a reinforced mount with load spreading, freedom of movement and a very quick length adjustment.
 
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