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Engine Hoist modification.

middle.road

Granite Stoopid...
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I have the Air/Hydraulic cylinder mounted.
Now on to the hanging end.
I'd like to get verification that I'm thinking straight... :grin:
I'm going to modify the end of the boom so that the chain hangs 'free' when UP, so to say.
Looked at several images online and I don't like the chain coming out and bending over the edge of the tube.
Am thinking I should cut out a notch.
The x-hatch white area is what I'm thinking about removing here shortly.
More to follow later, they're are a couple of minor 'cons' to this HF unit, nothing show stopping though.
Thanks for looking.

0630201840_HDR__R.jpg ... 0630201844__R.jpg ... 0630201844a__R.jpg ... 0630201821__R.jpg
 

Jake2465

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I think a super-sick custom machined attachment off the end of the boom that holds the chain would be an order of magnitude better. What's your inner dimensions of that boom and what is the hole diameter for your pin and how far away is that hole center away from the end of the boom?
 

mickri

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Whatever you do has to be equal to or greater than the rated capacity of the hoist. I would use an eye bolt with a shackle to connect the chain to the eye bolt. https://www.e-rigging.com/shoulder-eyebolts. Cutting a notch in the end of the beam will decrease the strength of the beam. I don't know how much. I have seen engineering websites where you can ask how much the notch would decrease the strength and get an answer. Don't have a link for you.
 

Aukai

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My hoist has an oval hole where the chain with the hook comes out from the cross bolt. If the chain hits the oval cutout, the links will change alignment, and I don't see the issue
 

Jake2465

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In all likelihood, the notch being cut will probably do just fine. He has made a point to keep some material to the sides of the notch that will keep the steel from buckling under compressive forces.
 

Shootymacshootface

I make little metal out of big metal.
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Two ways to go here for maximum strength. Cut a 45* angle (or slightly more) on the end to provide clearance for the hook, or slot the top and bottom, insert a bar with a hole for a shackle sticking out the bottom and weld in place.
 

NortonDommi

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What about fabricating an inverted V-shape to fit inside the tube with side plates and a pin through on the neutral axis. Plug weld it in wide side down and cut an opening in the bottom. Fit a short chain with a claw AKA shortening clutch.
This would give a straight pull through the neutral axis, a reinforced mount with load spreading, freedom of movement and a very quick length adjustment.
 

middle.road

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If only I knew how to weld. :concerned: (need to learn.)
After jacking (pun intended) around with this POS the past two days, I believe that I will limit it's capacity to 400# and not use it for engines unless maybe on a riding mower. The PO used and abused it pretty well. (The forward casters are hosed also...)
Would love to take the time to do up something sweet, but I really need to get it operating.
I bought it with the thought of using it for chucks and vises, and now this month - surface plates.
The Air/Hydraulic cylinder is really nice.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1593608134475.png
 

Shootymacshootface

I make little metal out of big metal.
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If only I knew how to weld. :concerned: (need to learn.)
After jacking (pun intended) around with this POS the past two days, I believe that I will limit it's capacity to 400# and not use it for engines unless maybe on a riding mower. The PO used and abused it pretty well. (The forward casters are hosed also...)
Would love to take the time to do up something sweet, but I really need to get it operating.
I bought it with the thought of using it for chucks and vises, and now this month - surface plates.
The Air/Hydraulic cylinder is really nice.

Here's what I'm thinking:

View attachment 329170
Thats what to do minus the slot. The most important thing is to use a bolt and snug it up against the tube. That will keep the sides from buckling and increase strength. An open slot will decrease strength significantly. Tubing is incredibly strong when left intact.
 

higgite

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My hoist has an oval hole where the chain with the hook comes out from the cross bolt. If the chain hits the oval cutout, the links will change alignment, and I don't see the issue
Same here with my HF hoist. Looks to me like the strongest option, but I'm not a engine hoist engineer. ;)

Tom
 

middle.road

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Thats what to do minus the slot. The most important thing is to use a bolt and snug it up against the tube. That will keep the sides from buckling and increase strength. An open slot will decrease strength significantly. Tubing is incredibly strong when left intact.
Ah, like this then? :

1593611053928.png
 

NortonDommi

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I would suggest having a look at the catalogs of a few rigging supply companies and visiting some sites like Engineering Toolbox: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/.

"20 minutes of thought over a beer or coffee and a sleep is worth a lot more than months of regret.

Give some thought to load paths and vectors plus in your drawing where is the reinforcing? Reducing material right where you have peak load is not good. Are you going to fit a tube between the inner walls under load? How will you centralise the chain? In those photographs surely the chain bolted to the outside of the boom is not standard?
 

middle.road

Granite Stoopid...
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I would suggest having a look at the catalogs of a few rigging supply companies and visiting some sites like Engineering Toolbox: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/.

"20 minutes of thought over a beer or coffee and a sleep is worth a lot more than months of regret.

Give some thought to load paths and vectors plus in your drawing where is the reinforcing? Reducing material right where you have peak load is not good. Are you going to fit a tube between the inner walls under load? How will you centralise the chain? In those photographs surely the chain bolted to the outside of the boom is not standard?
No the chain is going inside the tube.
I just had it on the outside for layout to check the angle of the dangle at full extension and stroke, to be able to mark it.
 

RJSakowski

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I have the 2t. HF hoist. It has an oval slot on the bottom face that is bout 1/2" longer than the width of the chain link and 1/2" wider than the thickness of the chain link. The bolt is located nearer the bottom face of the tube so that it acts as a pivot for the link. Cutting away the bottom face as in post #14 will allow the chain to slide back and forth unless spacers are used to center the chain.

Use of the design on post #15 will lengthen the arm and reduce the maximum load.
 

RJSakowski

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Another great modification that some do is to mount a winch on the arm to also be able to use it like a small crane.
The problem with that is the relatively small base is unstable. In order to stabilize the hoist, you would have to add a lot of weight to the base or add outriggers either of which would compromise the portability.

I believe that Franko made a modification to increase the stability.https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/potd-project-of-the-day-what-did-you-do-in-your-shop-today.14637/page-159#post-337555
 

middle.road

Granite Stoopid...
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Apr 28, 2014
Messages
3,020
The problem with that is the relatively small base is unstable. In order to stabilize the hoist, you would have to add a lot of weight to the base or add outriggers either of which would compromise the portability.

I believe that Franko made a modification to increase the stability.https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/potd-project-of-the-day-what-did-you-do-in-your-shop-today.14637/page-159#post-337555
Yeah, down at the auction in AL there was a twin to this one, they had (3) 10"DIA, 6" thk pcs stacked on the back.

I plan on keeping loads on it under 400#. Right now the for the 24x36" surface plates which are 340#.
Then after I get done with my surface plate adventure I'll probably be using it for lifting chucks and vises is all. Maybe the lawn tractors(Famous Last Words)
I don't much care for how it is bolted together. There is not a single washer on it.
 
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