Engine Hoist modification.

If only I knew how to weld. :concerned: (need to learn.)
After jacking (pun intended) around with this POS the past two days, I believe that I will limit it's capacity to 400# and not use it for engines unless maybe on a riding mower. The PO used and abused it pretty well. (The forward casters are hosed also...)
Would love to take the time to do up something sweet, but I really need to get it operating.
I bought it with the thought of using it for chucks and vises, and now this month - surface plates.
The Air/Hydraulic cylinder is really nice.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1593608134475.png
 
If only I knew how to weld. :concerned: (need to learn.)
After jacking (pun intended) around with this POS the past two days, I believe that I will limit it's capacity to 400# and not use it for engines unless maybe on a riding mower. The PO used and abused it pretty well. (The forward casters are hosed also...)
Would love to take the time to do up something sweet, but I really need to get it operating.
I bought it with the thought of using it for chucks and vises, and now this month - surface plates.
The Air/Hydraulic cylinder is really nice.

Here's what I'm thinking:

View attachment 329170
Thats what to do minus the slot. The most important thing is to use a bolt and snug it up against the tube. That will keep the sides from buckling and increase strength. An open slot will decrease strength significantly. Tubing is incredibly strong when left intact.
 
My hoist has an oval hole where the chain with the hook comes out from the cross bolt. If the chain hits the oval cutout, the links will change alignment, and I don't see the issue
Same here with my HF hoist. Looks to me like the strongest option, but I'm not a engine hoist engineer. ;)

Tom
 
Thats what to do minus the slot. The most important thing is to use a bolt and snug it up against the tube. That will keep the sides from buckling and increase strength. An open slot will decrease strength significantly. Tubing is incredibly strong when left intact.

Ah, like this then? :

1593611053928.png
 
I would suggest having a look at the catalogs of a few rigging supply companies and visiting some sites like Engineering Toolbox: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/.

"20 minutes of thought over a beer or coffee and a sleep is worth a lot more than months of regret.

Give some thought to load paths and vectors plus in your drawing where is the reinforcing? Reducing material right where you have peak load is not good. Are you going to fit a tube between the inner walls under load? How will you centralise the chain? In those photographs surely the chain bolted to the outside of the boom is not standard?
 
I would suggest having a look at the catalogs of a few rigging supply companies and visiting some sites like Engineering Toolbox: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/.

"20 minutes of thought over a beer or coffee and a sleep is worth a lot more than months of regret.

Give some thought to load paths and vectors plus in your drawing where is the reinforcing? Reducing material right where you have peak load is not good. Are you going to fit a tube between the inner walls under load? How will you centralise the chain? In those photographs surely the chain bolted to the outside of the boom is not standard?
No the chain is going inside the tube.
I just had it on the outside for layout to check the angle of the dangle at full extension and stroke, to be able to mark it.
 
I have the 2t. HF hoist. It has an oval slot on the bottom face that is bout 1/2" longer than the width of the chain link and 1/2" wider than the thickness of the chain link. The bolt is located nearer the bottom face of the tube so that it acts as a pivot for the link. Cutting away the bottom face as in post #14 will allow the chain to slide back and forth unless spacers are used to center the chain.

Use of the design on post #15 will lengthen the arm and reduce the maximum load.
 
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