Excellco 602 Mill

Surveywaters

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I purchased my first big mill to replace my Central Machinery mill/drill. Needs a little work but the ways are in great shape. Biggest defect is the quill spring broke years ago and the table has been hit quite a few times when the quill fell while running. So I'm hunting a replacement spring. We picked it up and brought to my shop using a tandem axle trailer and an aluminum take down gantry, sketchy work but nothing was damaged.

Attached to the knee is a mystery bar. Does anyone know what this piece is for? It's on the left side just under the table and protruding out over the knee crank.

Also, if there is anyone who has a model like this, I need a picture of the spindle side variable speed pulley from the top. Where the arm that raises and lowers the front sheave attaches around the upper bearing, I have a pin in the front and back that don't look original and are loose. I wonder if they should be set screws.029d7aec7c754df67d23b5a83d4dd19a.jpg

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Karl_T

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That bar has been added by some user before you. Why? I dunno.

I've owned a 602 for twenty years and done a complete tear down on the head a few years ago. Refresh my memory with a pic of exactly what you are looking at. Also have a complete parts donor machine.

Here's the manual.
 

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Surveywaters

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Thanks, I removed it. Who ever installed it pit a lot of work into it, just didn't know if it served some common purpose.

Thank you for the manual.

I've been cleaning the mill up, probably have removed over 50lbs of chips. I need to take the table off and clean next. Doing anything on this guy is more difficult than my mill/drill. I'm a bit more nervous about messing up the accuracy of things too. The table is nicely adjusted but really needs the tear down. I believe the po used an air compressor a lot.

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extropic

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Does your mill says "EX-CELL-O" or "X L O" on the Speed Control Housing?
The manual provided is for the former model.
I can add a .pdf of the "X L O" type manual if you need it.
 

Richard King 2

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That bar was used for a travel dial indicator. It was an indicator with a little rubber wheel that ran on that flat bar. That's what we used before DRO's
 

Surveywaters

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Does your mill says "EX-CELL-O" or "X L O" on the Speed Control Housing?
The manual provided is for the former model.
I can add a .pdf of the "X L O" type manual if you need it.
I have the older XLO mill. I've downloaded all of the literature from vintagemachinery.com. Unfortunately, the original documentation has very condensed diagrams that, due to age and detail, are very difficult to decipher. There are several issues to be addressed, first of which is the variable speed. The front pulley has play on the upper bearing assembly. Mine has a pin fore and aft of the upper bearing which are both loose. I can not tell in the drawings what these are suppose to bet, either pin or set screw. A quality photo of a similar assembly would be most helpful, or detailed discourse with an owner of a similar mill.
 

Surveywaters

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That bar has been added by some user before you. Why? I dunno.

I've owned a 602 for twenty years and done a complete tear down on the head a few years ago. Refresh my memory with a pic of exactly what you are looking at. Also have a complete parts donor machine.

Here's the manual.
The red arrow shows the front pin in question, the other is 180deg on the same surface. The blue and green arrows emphasize the area of excess play.

Next is the oil leak from the gear box and the lack of engagement from the quill feed plunger. I hope to maintain the attention of your ear.1e1973a6b11daad3d4e773e5ef014426.jpg

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Karl_T

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Sorry, got no memory of that pin. No help here.

My tear down was due to a terrible oil leak in the head. It was quite the job, sure don't want to do it again.
 

Surveywaters

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Sorry, got no memory of that pin. No help here.

My tear down was due to a terrible oil leak in the head. It was quite the job, sure don't want to do it again.
Where did you find the oil leak to be? I have the same problem. I understand the bottom seal is leather, if you replaced this, did you use a modern seal? Is the seal surface in the casting machined?
 

Karl_T

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Yep, that was the worst one. You can still buy parts from Excello but pretty sure I just got a standard seal from a local bearing supply. It was a standard machining into cast iron.

If you do run across a broken part, let me know. I have a complete spare head. I did take the best parts from both units to make one new one. Mine had varispeed issues. Mostly cause by ten pounds of swarf pounded into every crack. I'm sure that why the seal went out, the interior was full of fine machinings also.

Only real dis-assembly issue I remember is on the gibs. there are two set screws with an Allen wrench through hole. You turn the first one CLOCKWISE to loosen, then line up the wrench with the inner one, slide the wrench into both set screws. Only then can the assembly be removed to take the gib out.

Here's a video of the knee ballscrew toolchanger upgrade on mine.

 

Surveywaters

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I've read that the quill return spring is not designed to actually retract the quill, but rather to maintain or counter weight it. Is this correct?

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Surveywaters

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Making progress and I have a question about the quill feed engagement knob. I'm speaking of the fwd/n/Rev plunger on the fine feed wheel. Are there detents or springs in the plunger? The feel of mine has no feedback. It is very easy to miss the neutral position.

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Surveywaters

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In addition to the question in my last post, I have another.

Is there process for removing the drawbar?! It feels free, but when I try to pull it out of the spindle, it comes up about 1/2" and gets real tight.
 

Karl_T

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you must have a burr someplace. rotate the head horizontal and it should tap right out
 

Surveywaters

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Thanks Karl_T, that's what it was. The PO left out the washer that goes on the draw bar to separate the hex head from the spindle. This made the seating point of the drawbar to occur inside the top of the spindle. It popped out when I did what you suggested.
 

Surveywaters

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Ok, new question. Any tips for getting the "driveshaft locknut" off? This is the spanner type nut retaining the lower have of the driven pulley.
 

extropic

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In the manual, it looks like there are some setscrews that secure that nut. I would rotate the head horizontal and spray that area clean with Brake Cleaner to get a good look at it. If my understanding is correct, remove setscrews before trying to remove the nut.
You could use a piece of appropriate diameter tubing (muffler shop???) to make a spanner wrench for the nut if you need one.

Please post pictures as you go through your project. They will help everyone understand and help the next 602 owner with the same problem.
 

Surveywaters

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There is one set screw, though the manual says to "tighten these screws alternately". The parts listing has qty. 1. I have removed the screw. In the photos the threaded hole for the set screw can be seen, as can the two pin holes for a spanner. The pulley face can be raised and lowered about 1/4" with this nut in place, which is making me think something other than the locknut is retaining it.a53ff0e8475d4203c132d8d58d8a057f.jpg8e4558c6e28c6a442b35fd4f67ad4918.jpg

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extropic

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Are you saying that you haven't loosened the nut yet AND the pulley slides 1/4"?
If so, that's not good. I mean the nut is supposed to secure the pulley, not not limit it's travel.
I suggest removing the nut which should allow you to remove the pulley. Take a look at the condition of the key and the bearing below.
If that nut has been loose and has allowed the pulley to wallow around, it may have damage the key (44-4-39-R2), the mating slot in the pulley and generated debris that may have contaminated bearings.
 

Surveywaters

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Yep, still have to figure out how to do that.

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extropic

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Yep, still have to figure out how to do that.
Do you mean 'how to unscrew the nut'? If so, it should be loose (unless the pulley is FUBAR) and rotate freely. If you don't have an appropriate spanner, put a pin punch in one of the holes to use as a handle.
 

Surveywaters

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My reason for asking was due to the confusing note in the manual as well as the difficulty I was having. I didn't want to break anything. There was in fact only one set screw, and I'm not sure what it's purpose is. I made a pin 'adapter' that I could turn with a hook spanner, couple taps with my dead blow and it came off. Everything related to the pulley face looks good. Now I have to find the leak.8bcb8fb86ceaf66d0527039fa23c932c.jpg7ec5c56ee8e358383a57f468e0191bff.jpg

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extropic

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Excellent. Nice spanner adapter.
Please add a photo of the shaft showing the key/keyway and a close up of the bottom side (keyway) of the pulley.
How does the bearing on the pulley feel?
 

extropic

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The purpose of the setscrew is to LOCK the nut to the pulley.
There is certainly some clearance in the fit of the key and keyways. The spindle rotation is constantly being reversed so the rotational clearance in the key fit will eventually loosen the nut. The setscrew is supposed to lock the nut to the pulley so it can't unscrew (which yours apparently did 1/4"). I might suggest adding more setscrews to the nut to improve that locking capability..
 

Surveywaters

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Here is the shaft key and pulley lowe7d639292b7d7a04e774d360317dda586.jpg1e45b34fb1fab5fc0d0c78e92e6ea997.jpg1d596c6fdc22c0bea4742cce9d0e051c.jpg7b8b0996795c143cd57f37c38be7d08c.jpg

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extropic

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Everything looks serviceable from here. How does the bearing feel?
 

Surveywaters

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All the bearings feel great, except the 6010 on the top that the fork manipulates, which I have replaced. I'm really relieved to see the condition of the bearings and gears because there was almost no oil in the gear box. Hopefully the new seal and gasket fix that leak. Since there was no oil, I couldn't really tell where it was leaking from.

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Surveywaters

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So, I opened the spindle feed box and swapped the grease. Cleaned the back gear box out and replaced the seal. The only things I've seen bad are the upper bearing, the nylon key and the upper sheave bushings.

I replaced the bearing and machined a new key but I'm stumped by the bushings. I can't find them available for purchase and it seems very difficult to make. They are so thin, and I'm not certain of the material.

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extropic

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Those bushings are not a complete cylinders are they? Doesn't the key interrupt their diameter?
If I've got that correct then they are simple strips constrained in their grooves. I would suggest searching McMaster-Carr for an appropriate material.
I might use Delrin AF (13% PTFE) or maybe one of the low friction tape products depending on dimensional constraints.
 
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