facing the end of a pipe

[Illinoyance]

You don't have much grip on the pipe so you are going to have to take a lot of shallow facing cuts.

 

[tcarrington]

I would go for minimum stickout of the tool. That might be the source of chatter. With the work piece so long, taking light cuts is required. I prefer a honed HSS tool with a good rake and other geometry appropriate for the material. Approach slowly, feed slowly, celebrate for a long time when complete.

 

[Tozguy]

Run your tail stock up and extend the quill inside the pipe so if it does come out of the jaws it can’t get loose and create chaos.

Although I too would suggest protecting the quill from damage somehow, like slipping a piece of ABS pipe over it or by using a drill chuck in the quill.
This job is a good excuse to buy a 6 jaw chuck

On second thought there is too much doubt about the possibility of the work slipping in the 3 jaw so do not proceed.
A 4 jaw would be much better than the 3 jaw but even then its iffy. The work is too long to face unsupported, do you have a steady rest or a follow rest?
Or rather than cut the pipe square using a 3 jaw chuck I would grind it by hand (with angle grinder) using a try square to get it close. Then maybe take a light facing cut with a very sharp tool on the lathe to finish.

 

[ARC-170]

The pipe is 5" long. Is that really too long to be unsupported? What's the rule of thumb for this type of thing?

I thought I might get the pipe running true (no wobble) then use a cut-off tool to trim off a ring from the end. I'll take light cuts.

I've got the back gear engaged so the cutting speed is nice and slow.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

The pipe is 5" long. Is that really too long to be unsupported? What's the rule of thumb for this type of thing?

I thought I might get the pipe running true (no wobble) then use a cut-off tool to trim off a ring from the end. I'll take light cuts.

I've got the back gear engaged so the cutting speed is nice and slow.

First part - yes, but you can make it work with light cuts

Second part - don't even think of using a cut off tool. The cutting force is way too high for that much unsupported work. The pipe will climb up onto the tool and break it or spring out of the chuck.

Shallow facing cuts from outside in, using the same type of tool you would use for turning down the diameter. You only need to make sure that the tool is angled so that there's enough side clearance. Or you could use a LH tool (for cutting left to right) mounted in line with the pipe/ bed. Doesn't matter.

Shallow cuts, get rid of the uneven bit, then face the pipe. It's pretty simple, no need to reinvent the wheel.

 

[Illinoyance]

The real issue is the very short length of chuck jaw engagement. Too heavy a cut will pull the pipe off the chuck. HSS will work better than carbide. The sharper edge and proper rake will generate less tool pressure than carbide.

 

[MrWhoopee]

A parting tool (cutoff tool) is the wrong way to approach this, too much tool in contact with the work. Use something like a threading tool or chamfering tool with a sharp or almost sharp point (point facing towards the chuck) and face the pipe off taking light cuts and slow feed. HSS with positive rake will generate less pressure than carbide.

 

[f350ca]

Second on facing it with light cuts. I wouldn't use the tailstock to catch it if it comes out of the chuck, beter to hope it goes away from the cutter.
Was facing these spacers, had just welded them, think it cooled and shrunk thus coming loose in the chuck.


When it came loose it jammed against the compound and moved the probably 4 or 500 pound carriage.
The results.


Greg

 

[matthewsx]

Another thought, although it might get some grit on your lathe you could use an abrasive cut-off in an angle grinder.

 

[ARC-170]

1. First part - yes, but you can make it work with light cuts

2. Second part - don't even think of using a cut off tool. The cutting force is way too high for that much unsupported work. The pipe will climb up onto the tool and break it or spring out of the chuck.

3. Shallow facing cuts from outside in, using the same type of tool you would use for turning down the diameter. You only need to make sure that the tool is angled so that there's enough side clearance. Or you could use a LH tool (for cutting left to right) mounted in line with the pipe/ bed. Doesn't matter.

4. Shallow cuts, get rid of the uneven bit, then face the pipe. It's pretty simple, no need to reinvent the wheel.

1. That's what I thought. Is there a rule about how far out something can stick before it's considered too long?

2. Thanks. That's what I wanted to know.

3-4. Got it, thanks! The hardest/most dangerous part for me was figuring out how to deal with the uneven end. I knew that it would hit the tool and possibly cause problems. Thought I'd ask those with more experience. I needed more detail than I was getting and you've all provided it.

Greg/f350ca: Wow! That's just incredible. Thanks for sharing. You've scared the ---- out of me, but in a good way. I think I will grind this down as much as possible.

Another thought, although it might get some grit on your lathe you could use an abrasive cut-off in an angle grinder.

I was grinding it on my workbench and the sparks caught a piece of steel wool on fire. I need to take this outside and grind it, but I need to figure out how to hold it properly. I also cleaned up the workbench, but sparks still fly everywhere, even when I grind in such a way as to direct the sparks down and/or out of the way.