Finally getting my G0602 setup!

[gun410]

Thanks for the posts I’ll definitely be building something similar for my setup. Will be much needed after dealing with a shaky stand.

For the collet chuck, I can take a picture of the backplate but their is not enough room to machine a collar that’ll be long enough. I checked the chuck’s taper with a dial indicator and the runout wasn’t too bad, about .002 with no set tru adjustments. Is that decent for an er40 chuck or would the backplate be worth it to get less runout or what concerns should I have when using this setup?

 

[gerritv]

The backplate as shown in first photo is not seating against a repeatable face, so it is likely that every time that you mount it the runout will change. The backplate should be sitting over the shiny part. (ie a recess in the back of the plate with no threads). Might be ok to use for a while but I would order a proper one from Grizzly spare parts or from LMS. I have used both sources and they fit properly. Since you are in the US shipping should be affordable (definitely not the case when shipping to Canada!)

You should be able to get close to 0 runout, and it should repeat when you put the chuck on again.

 

[gun410]

So, I just finished building the tool cabinet lathe stand and it came out pretty well! I picked up some 2x2 tubing, angle and a big piece of channel from the steel yard. The stand came out pretty level after welding it up. The concrete it’s sitting on is a little messed up but with my starrett 98-8 I got it leveled decently. But overall the stand has been a huge upgrade and now my setup is rigid and sturdy.

I also got my er40 collets in the mail, and it looks like my backplate will suffice for my needs. I’m getting less than .0005 of runout each time I test remounting the chuck.

One of my last projects that I need to do before the lathe is setup is building a carriage stop. I also grabbed a hunk of aluminum at the steel yard that I’m planning on shaping into the stop. Lastly I unfortunately have one more concern, when I was running my lathe I could notice a goofy noise seeming to come from the spindle bearings. The spindle seems to be running true but I’m not sure if that matters. I hope they aren’t shot as it sounds like a pain to replace them, but I took a vid of it so hopefully one of you fellas can tell me if they are ok or not.

 

[RJSakowski]

The whine is coiming from the gear belt or gear belt pulley. I have the same noise and it persists with the spindle drive belt removed. The pulsing noise earlier on sounds like gear noise. There is a periodicity to it of around 1 second which suggests one of the change gears. You can narrow it down by removing change gears from the drive train. The noise I heard at the end could be a bearing but the bearing could be in the motor, the tensioning idler, the gear belt pulley, or the spindle.

 

[Aaron_W]

Good job on the stand, welders are a lovely tool aren't they. I think you will find the cabinet top a useful shelf when you are running the lathe. I always find myself, looking for a safe place to lay a tool I'm using intermittently.

 

[gun410]

Thanks I’m pretty sure the noise is coming from the change gears, they looked ok but i don’t know why the noise recently started.

I love my welder it’s a very valued tool in my shop! It made building the stand pretty simple.

I started doing a some turning today now that the lathe is pretty well setup. But for some damn reason I’m getting a crappy surface finish now. I was turning some 17-4 at 560 rpm and I couldn’t figure out how to get a good surface finish to save my life! First picture is .20 DOC turning with the hand wheel, and the second is 10 DOC with the power feed at .0025” per rev. Before I took a little break from the lathe I was getting a pretty good surface finish on 17-4 so I thought with the same insert tool after improving the rigidity of the lathe would improve the Finnish but I can’t figure it out, I would appreciate someone chiming in with some advice on why the surface finish is the way it it (very rough w little black streaks in it).

Ps I also made a carriage stop that came out ok, I don’t have a mill so I had to make do with the bandsaw and belt sander.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gerritv]

I calculate 73sfm, which for steel and carbide is way too slow. Guessing your work piece is 0.5" diameter, try doubling your rpm, maybe higher.

Steel with inserts is typically 250 SFM.

 

[gun410]

I found out this actually isn’t 17-4 I accidentally grabbed some mild steel. From the surface finish it looked like it was tearing a bit. I grabbed some hss, ground a tool with a larger nose radius and upped the lathe to 1200 rpms. It worked somewhat better but it looked like a lil tearing was still present and there are a few irregularities that u can feel fairly easy.

Since I replaced the compound clamp rigidity shouldn’t have been an issue. I did a little research and it seems to be a spindle problem. My thinking is maybe they didn’t preload the bearings right or/and the bearings are shot. I put my indicator in the spindle taper and with just pushing w my hand I could move the spindle about a thousandth. Correct me if I’m wrong but I’m figuring the tool pressure from turning is moving the spindle a little bit, causing the poor Finnish. I was looking at replacement 32009 bearings to order but there are a ton of different variations & brands I couldn’t figure out which bearings would work the best.

 

[gerritv]

Not too difficult to adjust the preload, 2 nuts on LH end of spindle are what you need to turn. Unless the bearings are bad (aka grinding etc) I would not go up that path unless really necessary.

If too much preload the bearings will overheat so do a bit at a time (I don't relcall seeing specs for this)

Also, if you are still using the ER40 chuck the way it was shown early in this thread, it is also not seated properly thus adding to issues. First photo shows unthreaded area that sits over the boss on spindle so the back of the plate mates against the spindle as shown in second photo. Without that mating the chuck will wobble. And it won't repeatedly sit in same position everytime you put it back on the spindle.

 

[gun410]

Ok that makes sense, but when adjusting the preload how do I know how much to tighten the nuts?

When I was testing how much the spindle moves, I took the er40 chuck off, so the movement wasn’t caused my the chuck. But I can’t seem to find a 5” 1 3/4-8 backplate suitable for it, but at this point I’m more concerned with the spindle movement more than anything.