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[4]

VN Finally Got A Slotter Attachment

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
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Finally picked up a slotter attachment that I have been looking for. Probably paid a bit much, but it's practically new. Stripped it and cleaned out the old gunk. Back together already, quickest rebuild yet. Missing one oil cap and the arbor, but I have a print for the arbor. All I did was clean it.

IMG_20160428_164755844.jpg

IMG_20160428_171005012.jpg
IMG_20160428_171013139_HDR.jpg

Jason
 

Comments

#2
Looks good , don't know what it dose , dose it make slots or spots :chunky:
Never seen one before
 
#3
Its used for cutting internal keyways and slots in things. There's no tool in it now.

You can't edit thread titles, and I have only had 4 hours of sleep since yesterday.

Jason
 
#4
What does the tooling look like. I have a slotter head for my Maho - have not got around to cleaning it up, sorting out the tooling and giving it a try. One day . . . . .
 
#5
This thing puts it's own words in also , just wondering how it operates, mill, shaper attachment?.
 
#6
It bolts to the cutter head of the smaller Van Norman Mills, in this case the 6, 12, and 16. It may work on others too.

I can't find a pic online, so I'll take one tomorrow sometime and post it.

As for the tooling, I don't know what the original stuff looked like, but I am planning on using 1/2" drill rod and grinding it to what I think will work. Probably use the surface grinder and the grind all to keep things consistent. I guess I now have a reason to wire the grinder up.

Jason
 
#7
Here's what it looks like mounted on the machine. It can be run with or without the arbor support.

IMG_20160429_164646970.jpg
IMG_20160429_164656703_HDR.jpg
IMG_20160429_164745762.jpg

Jason
 
#8
Hi Jason. Looks good. Do you have a picture of the drive arbor? How well does it slot?
 
#9
slotter cutters 001.JPG
Here is a couple of sets of Pratt & Whitney slotter cutters that I use on my 6" P&W slotter and my #2 Brown & Sharpe slotting attachment; they all have 1/2" diameter shanks. When making them, they need very little side clearance since they do not feed over like a lathe tool, also note that most of them have the taper carried back a short distance and are straight the rest of the way back to keep the shank as ridgid as possible. I made the one that is third from the left in the front row (the square one) out of a HSS round tool bit before I was able to find the sets shown.
 
#10
Not on this phone, I'll take a pic this week. I had to make it. Haven't used it yet, but I have a project in November that will need it.
 
#12
The first couple of pics are for the slotted head and the earlier sub head.

IMG_20171003_175945170.jpg

IMG_20171003_180000381.jpg

The next image is for the later version of the high speed sub head, and possibly the later slotter, I am not sure on this though.

IMG_20171003_180026376.jpg

I made both of these on the fly.

Jason
 
#13
I have used those on a bridgeport for making internal splines as well as gear teeth. They are basically a vertical shaper.
 
#14
Jason, can you post a picture of the socket of the spotter head? Trying to visualize how the arbor engages the slotter to drive it.
 
#15
Finally picked up a slotter attachment that I have been looking for. Probably paid a bit much, but it's practically new. Stripped it and cleaned out the old gunk. Back together already, quickest rebuild yet. Missing one oil cap and the arbor, but I have a print for the arbor. All I did was clean it.

View attachment 127990

View attachment 127991
View attachment 127992

Jason
Jason, I just picked up a universal slotter. It does not have the drive arbor. You mention that you have the print for the arbor. Can you share it?
Thanks,
Greg
 
#16
I do not have a print, however, I can draw one up. It might take me a little bit to get it done.
 
#17
I do not have a print, however, I can draw one up. It might take me a little bit to get it done.
That would be much appreciated. I have made some horizontal arbors, shell mill arbors and boring head arbors, so I'm good with the spindle 5V side of the drive arbor. I'm interested in the slotter side of the drive arbor.

Also, I found one arbor drawing that didn't use the drive lugs. It relied solely on the internal keyway and taper to drive the arbor. I don't have the slotter head in my possession yet, but I would prefer to use the drive lugs in addition to the taper and internal key if the drive arbor will fit into the slotter attachment with drive lug slots included. It looks like your arbor uses the drive lugs. Is that correct?

Thanks,
Greg
 
#19
I know there are at least 2 drive arbors, the 1" 6 spline, and the older twin drive lug style. The older one is basically a straight shaft with 2 Woodruff keys inline which are the drive lugs.

Jason
 
#20
BillH beat me to it. I knew what it was when I saw the tools. I made one of them for a Bridgeport 40 years ago.
 
#21
The slotter arrived. It uses the Twin woodruff keys. The drive arbor should be straight forward to make. No need for drawings. Thanks anyway Jason.
 
#22
I would enjoy a video showing the movement of the slotter attachment. Since many accessories for the VN are hard to find.

What is the stroke?
 
#25
Thank you for the video.

I'm assuming the depth of broach is handled manually by the feed in and out of table? What is an acceptable depth of cut for broaching?
 
#26
I have never used one before, but I believe .002" - .004" per pass. I'm also not sure the best way to feed it either. A shaper has an intermittent feed mechanism which is what I think would be best, but I don't know how you accomplish that with a slotting attachment on a mill.
 
#27
Today ended in failure. Ground my first tool from 1/2" drill rod, and it didn't work out too well. I'll try again tomorrow.

Jason
 
#28
Today ended in failure. Ground my first tool from 1/2" drill rod, and it didn't work out too well. I'll try again tomorrow.

Jason
I made a tool bar to hold hss tool steel like a boring bar, but ground differently that worked pretty well. 20171217_210431.jpg
 
#29
Today ended in failure. Ground my first tool from 1/2" drill rod, and it didn't work out too well. I'll try again tomorrow.

Jason
A tool made from O-1 would have to be hardened and tempered after rough grinding, then honed sharp. High speed steel might be a better choice.
 
#30
I should have know better, I was in a hurry and lazy. I can touch up what I have and harden it, and start over. The drill rod was just easy, as it was already round.

Jason
 
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