Fincor 2301 dc power supply

Motor is 90v..1.53 amp..field on control is 50 v..arm is 90v..solder at scr blows out in a spray of dots..also black smudge..but looking at scr it looks no different.do I need to get a few scr's..if where.i looked on eBay but don't see any with same number..thanks
 
Phil: You have bad SCRs. The only correct result is as I said above. They should be off initially then latch on and stay on when you tickle the gate. You should pull all of them out and test. You can't test them easily with an ohmmeter. Can't test reliably unless removed from board.
Also to test the big diodes you need to remove them or at least lift one end from the board, otherwise you may get confusing readings in circuit. You can test those with an ohmmeter.
I'll get back to you with some part #s for replacements
Mark
 
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Phil: Littlefuse brand S6010LTP available from Newark electronics about 1$ each +shipping
or Littlefuse brand S8020LTP available from Mouser electronics about 2$ each + shipping
these are both isolated types, first one is 600 volt, 10 amp. Second one is 800 volt, 20 amp.
either one will work fine with a 1/2 hp motor which is the max for those controllers.
For the big diodes you can use this 10A10 part:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10A10...514521bbbc72c17a304377&pid=100505&rk=1&rkt=1&
 
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Hate to ask but how do I tickle the gate..I must be missing something or a lot of something..sorry for all the questions.believe it or not I learned a lot here. Thanks Phil
 
For that SCR jig test you must use a steady dc source like a battery or a filtered dc supply. A battery charger may not give the latching behavior you want to see.
Just so you know. By tickle I mean connect wire briefly from gate to anode- you follow?SCRs are latching devices, they only turn off by removing the power or reversing the polarity of the power. That's how they control ac because ac reverses 60 times per second
M
 
Will a battery out of drill be better than charger or a car battery. Thanks Phil
 
Sure Phil you can use a cordless drill battery, a 12 volt battery and bulb would be ideal. Even a 9 v Makita battery would work. Long as it lights up even half brightness it
will work for doing the test. Once you see the "latching" action you'll know what I've been talking about- however, prepare to be disappointed since all your SCRs might be
burned out. Let's hope you can find at least two good ones.
Mark
ps motorcycle battery would work too, or even some flashlight batteries in series.
 
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Not sure I'm doing this right..using clip I'm connecting a outside wire to middle wire..all 3 wires light test light,.of course the two clipped together would..couple scr are dimmer on separate wire..I'm thinking not doing it correctly
 
Unsoldered a scr off a treadmill panel board..with power to tab all wires light up..one is dimmer than other 2..power to any wire lights up all 3..but with ohm meter no continuity from tab to center wire
 
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