First facing cut - carbide insert - 5/8" brass round

Here is a closeup of the facing tool
I wrote facing in the front side and top on top. You should see facing on the front of the tool holder. The same goes for the turning tool.
Looking at this pic the tool needs to rotate 90 degrees CCW. Then you should see facing on the front.
Next square your tool post up to the chuck for starters.
This is set up for facing.
The most important thing is that you have your tool dead center of your work piece. Easiest way to do that is put a dead center in your tail stock and spin the tool post around so you can line up the very top tip of the tool with the point of the dead center then you square the tool post back square to the chuck.
The video I sent you is the tool you have in your hand, turning that is.
Get the tool bits oriented correctly and you should have no problem getting mirrored finishes. I was turning around 1100 rpm
For brass the top of the tool should be flat with no grinding on it.



IMG_1523.jpegIMG_1520.jpeg
Hope this helps
Jeff
 
Last edited:
The photo below is how they sit in their respective tool posts with the included labeling. I see that I need to rotate the facing tool around 180 degrees so that it sits correctly in the tool post. But in your facing operation photo you have the rake groove facing the top as it is mounted in the post. This is contradictory to the labeling. See my photo.

Also below are links to a quick video of each since pictures are challenging to show off all the cut angles. I am still not sure that I have things correct in the videos. Still very, very confused.


 

Attachments

  • IMG_1281.jpg
    IMG_1281.jpg
    290.4 KB · Views: 26
Last edited:
The photo below is how they sit in their respective tool posts with the included labeling. I see that I need to rotate the facing tool around 180 degrees so that it sits correctly in the tool post. But in your facing operation photo you have the rake groove facing the top as it is mounted in the post. This is contradictory to the labeling. See my photo.

Also below are links to a quick video of each since pictures are challenging to show off all the cut angles. I am still not sure that I have things correct in the videos. Still very, very confused.


I think you are clocking these cutting tools incorrectly. This looks like turning tool tipped over on its side. It LOOKS like a left handed cutter, meaning it would be run from LEFT to RIGHT, but the letters on the piece that says "Turning" should be facing UP, not to the side.
 
THIS looks like it will cut. The other pictures in that post look wrong. THIS pic looks correct.
The geometry isnt perfect, but this will at least cut.

1684850393409.png
 
@ssdesigner
I think that in your photo, the tool in front, marked 250-001 should work just fine. Keep your set up the same and give that one a try. Put it in the side wedge on your tool post, not the boring wedge that is opposite you. Keep your tool post angled like you did in this picture:
1684850973702.png
Cut your RPM's to around 400-600 and feed slow for the best finish. Now, since you cant lock down your cross slide here is something you can try:

  1. Disengage your lead screw so that it is not turning while you are under power.
  2. Position your cross slide so that you are close to your desired facing depth.
  3. Engage your lead screw half nuts. With the lead screw not turning, this will help keep the cross slide from moving.
  4. Use your compound to make final adjustments on facing depth WHILE HOLDING PRESSURE AGAINST THE LEAD SCREW. This pressure is achieved by turning the hand traversing wheel like you are trying to turn clockwise, moving the apron towards the tailstock. Doesnt need a lot of pressure, just keep the half nuts engaged on the back side of the lead screw threads. The apron should not move once locked up like this. When you actually make the cut, hold light pressure clockwise on the traversing wheel.
This is not the most rigid setup but it will be better than a free moving cross slide.
 
That looks good considering what you are asking it to do. As a rule of thumb, your stick out from the chuck should not be more than 1.5X the diameter without using additional support such as a live center in the tail stock. In your case, about 1" sticking out total. You notice in your picture how much smoother your finish is as you get to that last inch or so?
Dont try and face with that much brass sticking out of the chuck, go back to about 1" or so sticking out.
 
That looks good considering what you are asking it to do. As a rule of thumb, your stick out from the chuck should not be more than 1.5X the diameter without using additional support such as a live center in the tail stock. In your case, about 1" sticking out total. You notice in your picture how much smoother your finish is as you get to that last inch or so?
Dont try and face with that much brass sticking out of the chuck, go back to about 1" or so sticking out.

My apologies for the cutoff photo....not pictured there is a live center to the right. This is a brass scribe project, so I will need to turn the length.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    293.5 KB · Views: 16
Use the same tool that you are turning with for facing, just angle the tool post so you have clearance like you did here:
1684852347775.png
 
My apologies for the cutoff photo....not pictured there is a live center to the right. This is a brass scribe project, so I will need to turn the length.
If you have a live center installed then I ask you did you drill a hole with your countersink? Insure that you have plenty of pressure applied to the live center into a countersunk hole. Your photo shows chatter progressing as you get further from the chuck. something is not rigid enough.
 
Back
Top