[Metrology] First scraping project: scrap iron straight edge

I’m currently using Prussian Blue and oil-based Charbonnel yellow. I’ll try some of the water based Charbonnel when I get our next.

In the mean time, I came up with a brain dead simple hack that makes a world of difference in seeing the contrast. Simply put a light right next to the work area. IDK, maybe my LED overhead lights are just really bad at illuminating the ink? Don’t know. But it does show better under fluorescent light.

I’m finding that just a dab of the Charbonnel on a piece of cloth thinned with paint thinner works nicely.
 

Attachments

  • 81E5F521-FA44-4F94-99F1-2C2353E898AB.jpeg
    81E5F521-FA44-4F94-99F1-2C2353E898AB.jpeg
    3.5 MB · Views: 38
A post I wrote was deleted on one of the you tube shows, shown. I have discovered many You Tube demo's are not something I would recommend. If anyone has a question on any of the facts written or shown in this thread please email me. Richard@handscraping.com

Here is a great video on scraping Tom Lipton did on my teaching ....look at minute 36.
 
Last edited:
Richard,
Did we dilute the aqua blue or use it straight/thin on the surface plate?
Thanks,
Jeff Anderson
 
We found that mixing Canode with the Charbonnel Aqua Ink in a small container and used a water color brush dabbing it on the plate. I also put it on a separate platten. I also found in the tested some Walmart craft / art paint and it worked OK too. We deluded it with windex and used it as a highlighter. I like the red as I like the red Charbonnel but for the spotting blue ink we mixed it 50 50 with Canode. You know my favorite is Dykem High Spot but it stains everything: Nose, fingers, clothes....etc.....I used Canode for over 25 years and not am experimenting with other inks and paints. Also used hard rubber and soft foam rollers. In Austria we experimented using 5 brands of ink, Dykem, Diament, Charbonnel, Canode and a Russian brand someone is selling on Ebay. In the classes I use water soluble inks like Canode and Charbonel.
 

Attachments

  • 20191016_094612.jpg
    20191016_094612.jpg
    4.7 MB · Views: 27
  • 20191016_115435.jpg
    20191016_115435.jpg
    3.7 MB · Views: 22
  • 20191025_115837.jpg
    20191025_115837.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 23
  • 20191016_115506.jpg
    20191016_115506.jpg
    5.2 MB · Views: 21
  • 20191029_160700.jpg
    20191029_160700.jpg
    5 MB · Views: 28
Last edited:
A post I wrote was deleted on one of the you tube shows, shown. I have discovered many You Tube demo's are not something I would recommend. If anyone has a question on any of the facts written or shown in this thread please email me. Richard@handscraping.com

Here is a great video on scraping Tom Lipton did on my teaching ....look at minute 36.
Yep, some of the videos out there are way off base.
What I discovered over the last couple of years, since realizing scraping is cool, is to watch videos that students of your classes have posted.
A person is able to pick up numerous tidbits from them which along with your posts here and elsewhere can be combined to increase knowledge.
Along with your other resources one is able to at least understand the proper basics and proceed in the right direction.
In regards to some of the videos out there - :dunno:
Just like any other type of 'skills' videos out there - there's good ones and there's bad ones.
 
Yep, some of the videos out there are way off base.
What I discovered over the last couple of years, since realizing scraping is cool, is to watch videos that students of your classes have posted.
A person is able to pick up numerous tidbits from them which along with your posts here and elsewhere can be combined to increase knowledge.
Along with your other resources one is able to at least understand the proper basics and proceed in the right direction.
In regards to some of the videos out there - :dunno:
Just like any other type of 'skills' videos out there - there's good ones and there's bad ones.
Watching Richard straighten a gib and helping one of the guys determine the correct plane to measure on his lathe bed was great.
Guys that do this for a living really are detectives. Richard was incredible
 
Thanks, I’ve got a playlist of great You Tube scraping videos that I’ve watched, I really like Stephan G’s videos.

Here’s with another hour or so of practice. I part of the problem is the scraper geometry, or possibly bad quality sharpening on it, as I seem to be getting some scratches.

One important lesson I learned today is do everything in short strokes. Scrapes and also use the de burring stone in short strokes, don’t drag the stone over your work because it’s likely to pick up a piece of grit and drag that across leaving a nasty scratch.

I’m also playing around with push angle. Seems to cut a bit smoother if instead of exactly perpendicular to the blade, you angle the blade about 10 degrees or so, this gives a smoother, more shearing cut.

5a6dd0830674568fd893fb5b8b6bac68.jpg


e1de9be42ffe9828cc4783fa4d07dc7e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I use big long handles on my scrapers if you doubled the length of your blade you would notice it would flex and give a nice cut, Anderson scrapers will flex with a long handle, Sandvik scrapers will but not as much but become easier to control
 
In last weeks class here in MN, Matt from Des Moines IA. one of the students had a Anderson scraper. They are using thinner material now it seems as his 1" wide scraper worked pretty good when I gave him a Biax plastic handle that had a rubber sanding disk screwed on the end./ The carbide blade that came with it needed a lot of work though. It was flat and not sharpened plus the sides had porosity on both sides left over from the silver soldering of carbide to the highspeed steel. We ground the tip to a 2 1/2" radius (60 mm) with a 5 deg neg. rake. We roughed the blade radius with a 260 grit diamond wheel, switched to a 1200 grit to finish lap the tip and then pressed the sides on the flat Glendo wheel to polish lap them. We also had the blade extended out to the far out notch. I used to despise Anderson as the original design was made for HSS and they were to stip. I called the guy who bought the "Anderson" brand from the Anderson family and told him he needed to make a more flexible, so I guess he did. I thought I took a picture of mat using his scraper, but I only have one of him scraping a Martin straight-edge with a Biax Power scraper.
 

Attachments

  • 20210409_170824_resized.jpg
    20210409_170824_resized.jpg
    325.6 KB · Views: 14
  • 20210409_170833_resized (1).jpg
    20210409_170833_resized (1).jpg
    337.9 KB · Views: 14
  • 20210409_170833_resized.jpg
    20210409_170833_resized.jpg
    337.9 KB · Views: 19
Last edited:
I'll email him and ask him to join the forum and he can tell you more about it. :)
 
Back
Top