First scraping project

Thanks for your reply Richard. I have been reading a lot of threads on here and PM and watching vidson u tube.
This is something I have been reading about for quite a while and finally decided to get the stuff needed and give it a try.
Eventually I want to scrape my compound and cross slide on my lathe. I just wanted to practice on these small, simple flat parts to start with.
I have been hinging the parts on every blue up. The angle plate table is just inside the ends right in the middle, just where the blue is showing. This top gets heavy flipping it around. I think it weighs about 50 lbs.
I would love to take one of your classes but it will probably never happen.
Thanks again for the help guys.
Joe Hynes
 
Oh, I forgot to say I'm not done with the table. That's where I left off the other night.
I had visions of scraping my mill when I got this idea to begin with, but I can see how big of a project that would be.
Joe Hynes 290606
 
Wipe off the blue the plate and SE and set it in several spots on your plate and hinge it. That will show you how good your plate is. Once you find a few spots that hinge the same way, then you have found a pretty flat spot. (s) Then next time you blue up on you ink, pick it straight up and set it down on an area you did not blue up. and rub it say to a count of 15 and that way the smeared thick blue gets shinny of the highest blue. If your shop is 56 degree's you need to do it this way as inks are designed to be used at 68 degree's. I apprenticed under a employee of my Dad's who only shinned parts and not bluing. He would rub red-lead on the part to dull the finish. Biax / Dapra tells the readers of their booklets to use rubbing alcohol to leave a dull film on the part and then rub it on a clean plate and you scrape the highest spots that get shinny . As someone else said, you are scraping to long with a to small of radius blade. Next time you sharpen your Sanvik insert grind all 4 sides. one a 5" radius, one side a 4" circle, one side a 3" circle, then a 2" circle.
 
I looked at a picture of someone choking up on a hand scraper and scraping in his straight edge in a vise. Please just place your straight edge in a simple jig to hold it while you utilize your entire length of your scraper. IF you choose to lengthen your handle that is acceptable .Cut a baseball bate in about a 3rd length and place the body of your scraper in the end.(handle end) scraping can be done much simpler by using your hole body swinging in a rhythm. I am not trying to scrutinize any others opinions please. Improper technique will result in bodily injury. I have had two shoulder surgery's and carpal tunnel surgery in both wrist. As I stated before I have many years in this trade. I am not hear to compare with others, I am 58 and retired, although it is a strenuous job it has been very good to me and my family.
 
I have taught over 30 thousand people my method of body pushing the hand scraper plus I teach people to use the BIAX power scraper and have never had any surgeries due to my job. I started scraping in the basement of my parents house around 1962. I was 12. I have been a journeyman Machine Rebuilder& Millwright for 46 years. I am 68. I am not retired yet, but have been talking about it for 4 years.

I have had aches and pains from scraping, but many do. I recommend people buy or make a Swiss design scraper that Biax Germany sells in the states though DAPRA. I call it the professional model. My first scraper was a file with a ground tip, then an Anderson HSS and then a Carbide tipped Anderson, then a carbide insert tip Sanvik then around 1984 I started to use the Biax type loaded with a 1" wide x 6" long carbide tipped blade sold by Biax Swiss type , If anyone wants a copy of the blue print Message me with your email and I will send it to you. The BIAX style also allows youto use a carbide insert too. https://www.dapra.com/biax/scrapers/accessories.htm I also sell the Connelly book shown in the link and if you look at the scraper page you can see where DAPRA advertises my classes too.
 
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