First time disassembling an Albrecht chuck

Technical Ted

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Originally, I was considering putting an R8 on one of my chuck too, but decided against it. One currently has a short 1/2" straight shank. I like this better since it doesn't take much clearance to put it into a collet to use it. My Jacob's chuck has a R8 and I usually end up having to crank the knee way down to have enough room to put it into the spindle. The short 1/2" shank in the collet works great and holds well so I'm sticking with that.

I didn't have the wedges and didn't want to buy them so I decided to disassemble the chuck to push the arbor out. This also gave me the opportunity to clean it out good and re-grease the balls. The arbor popped right out with my arbor press.

If you make the two clamps mikey describes in his write up disassembly is pretty easy. The hard part is holding the pieces so you can unscrew them. With clamps made out of aluminum it's a piece of cake.

Ted
 

Jubil

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An Albrecht keyless chuck relies on the threaded spindle inside being oil-free so it can lock down on a bit and stay locked. If oil gets in there the bit will come loose and spin. That's why so many ebay chucks are so hard to disassemble. Folks think cranking down on the hood will keep the bit from spinning in the chuck but it won't. You have to take the chuck apart and clean the oil out of the spindle threads.


Thanks Mikey,. I'm thinking of spraying some mineral spirits in mine cause it's almost new and I don't want to disassemble it. Not sure if I have sprayed wd40 in it or not but I want it to continue to work properly.
 

Bob Korves

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Originally, I was considering putting an R8 on one of my chuck too, but decided against it. One currently has a short 1/2" straight shank. I like this better since it doesn't take much clearance to put it into a collet to use it. My Jacob's chuck has a R8 and I usually end up having to crank the knee way down to have enough room to put it into the spindle. The short 1/2" shank in the collet works great and holds well so I'm sticking with that.
I totally agree with that. Not just for chucks, for all kinds of tooling. The straight shank can be pretty short, all the clamping force is at the tapered bottom end of the collet. A shank 1/2" diameter and 1 1/2" long works just as good at not slipping as a full length one does. Having more different tooling with the same size shank helps even more. Leave the collet, change to another tool with the same size shank.
 

Ken from ontario

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I would have a package of (the correct size) bearing balls ready before dismantling the chuck, the bearings in the chuck have a bad habit of jumping out and rolling in the deepest darkest place in your shop where they may never be seen again. DAMHIKT.
 
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Bob Korves

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Thanks Mikey,. I'm thinking of spraying some mineral spirits in mine cause it's almost new and I don't want to disassemble it. Not sure if I have sprayed wd40 in it or not but I want it to continue to work properly.
You are better off to take it apart per the instructions in the link in post 1 of this thread, written by Mikey. Albrecht chucks get ruined by not being correct inside, and it is not really a big task to service them. It is very likely you will need the special aluminum clamps to hold the chuck body and the shroud. Makeshift tooling for that will tear up the finish and can damage the chuck. Mikey's instructions are right on correct, better than the Albrecht instructions.
 

Bob Korves

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I would have a package of (the correct size) ball bearings ready before dismantling the chuck, the bearings in the chuck have a bad habit of jumping out and rolling in the deepest darkest place in your shop where they may never be seen again. DAMHIKT.
Do the disassembly with a oil pan or other container below the chuck to catch everything that comes out. Make sure a full complement of 25 undamaged balls goes back in place when reassembling the chuck. Not one less, not one more, the exact correct count. I think the count is the same for all Albrecht chucks.
 

Technical Ted

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You are better off to take it apart per the instructions in the link in post 1 of this thread, written by Mikey. Albrecht chucks get ruined by not being correct inside, and it is not really a big task to service them. It is very likely you will need the special aluminum clamps to hold the chuck body and the shroud. Makeshift tooling for that will tear up the finish and can damage the chuck. Mikey's instructions are right on correct, better than the Albrecht instructions.

Yup, I agree... and I was lucky. The balls stayed in place when I took things apart. But, I did follow mickey's advice and made sure I was over a shop towel. This would keep them from bouncing around if they did come out.

Being my first usage of Albrecht chucks, I was surprised on how little pressure you need to tighten down the chuck on a tool to hold it in place. I just snug them up and they hold tight!

I'm REALLY starting to love these chucks!

Ted
 

mikey

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Yeah, and they get tighter as they encounter the cutting forces when drilling. Then just a twist of the wrist and the chuck loosens. Totally awesome design!
 

mikey

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Thanks Mikey,. I'm thinking of spraying some mineral spirits in mine cause it's almost new and I don't want to disassemble it. Not sure if I have sprayed wd40 in it or not but I want it to continue to work properly.

Please don't do this. It isn't necessary to spray anything inside the chuck. Mineral spirits may leave deposits inside and you want the spindle threads clean and dry. If you did spray WD-40 in there or if the chuck malfunctions, take it apart. As Bob says, not hard to do.
 

EmilioG

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I purchased the Albrecht removal tools for the arbors. They make arbor removal a snap.
You can probably make them.

Also, you can press out Albrecht chucks like Jacobs. It’s threaded hood comes off with the aluminum clamps as in Mikey’s Blog post.
Awesome write up.


Having a good vise is also key. Boring the clamp holes is best. You need a nice round hole. Out of round clamps just don’t work as well. I clamp them right at the top thread area on the knurls. Good luck.
 
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