First time knurling

[Bob Korves]

Your lathe can take the knurling pressure, Jeff. It is a stout machine. I agree with the idea to start firmly, much less chance of double cutting, at least when I am doing it. If you have good quality knurls with beveled edges or crowned cutting faces, and you are doing work with access to the side of where the knurling starts (side relief), you can touch off the tool to the O.D. with the spindle stopped, then move laterally off the work, set in a reasonably stout cut, and then power or hand feed the knurl sideways into the work. That usually works best for me.

 

[savarin]

I was converted to the camjack knurler very soon after I started suffering from this disease.

Camjack Knurler

Okay, guys. A couple of months ago, I mentioned a Project-in-Waiting that I called a Camjack Knurler. When you invent something, you're allowed to make up words, too. It came about because I had checked out several sites on clamp knurlers. Most seem to use a 6 mm threaded shaft to apply...

www.hobby-machinist.com

Camjack knurling tool

www.totallyscrewedmachineshop.com

I do a lot of knurling in stainless which takes a lot of pressure.
The pins wear and I dont calculate the diameters but the wheels sort of slip on the wear and align themselves.
Clamp very tight and turn slowly usually allows them to slip into the pattern.
In stainless I have to turn the cam bolt with pliers to get full depth. (must make a larger dia knurled top for it.)

 

[ttabbal]

I made a camjack as well. Great tool. Tons of pressure and nice straight knurls.

 

[darkzero]

I do a lot of knurling in stainless which takes a lot of pressure. The pins wear....

If you have an issue with pins wearing you could try solid carbide pins. I have carbide pins in my Eagle Rock K1-44 (scissor knurler) & never had issues with the pins wearing yet. I mostly knurl titanium with it. It came with carbide pins so not sure how much better they are compared to hardened steel pins.