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Five Cylinder Radial With Ohc

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Welcome aboard Eddy, Enjoy the ride.
With the combustion chambers cut The problems really start, from now on everything has a definite position and angle in the head.
The next job is to drill the spark plug hole, head's # 1 2 3 and 5 are the same but #4 has the plug on the opposite side to keep it away from the oil drain when the engine is stationary.

P1013215.JPG

Brian.
 
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So on with the work, The mill is now set to 45° and the R T set so the hole to be drilled is in half way between the studs and exactly in the top corner of the combustion chamber.

P1013216.JPG

Then drill all 5 heads.

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Flip he heads over on the jig and counter bore.

P1013220.JPG

Using the same settings tap the hole.

P1013221.JPG

Slowly slowly Brian.
 
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Next stage is to drill --bore and counter bore the holes for the valve cages.

q.JPG
First one side then turn the R T 180° to do the other.

s.JPG

If you look closely you can see the one in the front has the spark plug on the opposite side.
Bronze for the cages is on order so I will probably continue with the inlet and exhaust tracts . the inlet is simple but the exhaust comes at a angle,
just have to trust the jig and the I gage's, I will probably go over the drawing 2 or 3 times as well.

Brian.
 
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The hone arrived so the plan switched back to the cylinders.
On to the mill to bring them to size.
P1013194a.JPG
Two things to note in this photograph One is the hole in the jig for swarf clearance and the other is the hose clip I use around the
boring head , this is to balance the offset of the tool ,I can create wobble on a small machine .


Next was a quick rub with the hone to remove most of the tool marks.

P1013195a.JPG

Finally the base flange was reduced and the seat for the head gasket machined all that remains now is to give them a polish and hot oil black.

P1013196.JPG

The blank was 1.5 Kg at the start, the finished cylinder weighs 300g.

Brian.
 
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Thank you to all who have posted likes it's nice to know someone's watching
In this town if you don't pick olives you don't exist??
But the local blacksmith is a nice chap.
I have the only lathe in town . 7x12 top of the heap, Wow!!
Thanks again Brian.
 

Dataporter

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Hey Brian! I see the bore is 25mm and stroke is 28mm on your engine. I'm still trying to get a mental picture of how big the completed engine will be. What will be the overall diameter of a circle drawn around the tops of the cylinder heads when the engine is assembled?
Dave
I guess you haven't found out, like I haven't found out, that you can't make anything with a 3 in 1 or with a 7 x 12 import lathe! People keep telling me that you can't....
 
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Hi Dave the engine will be just over 12" diameter when complete.
Somewhere along the development I reduced the stroke to 26mm , and increased the rod length to
reduce the angularity of the links,
I think the problem with the small lathe is that THEY can't .

Brian.
 

wrmiller

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I think the problem with the small lathe is that THEY can't .
Brian.
And likely never tried. But they're 'experts' on the subject, just ask them... ;)

I've said this before, and I'll say it again: I'd MUCH rather ask questions/seek advice of hobbyists making complex mechanisms on smaller machines than any guy who works in a production shop, on production machines, worrying about cycle times and tool longevity whilst spitting out the same part over and over again. Apples and oranges...

EDIT: Oh...and I tried you vid but it says I have to sign in to view it?
 
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Thanks Bill I failed to make it public , hope it's OK now.
 

thomas s

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Wow Brian, Very nice work looking forward to the rest of the build. thomas s
 
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Thanks' Thomas,
The next operation is to drill the inlet and exhaust tracts, slightly undersize until the bronze valve cages are fitted.
The inlet is straight forward being radial to the head.
P1013195 (2).JPG

But the exhaust is offset from the centre line I must have checked the drawing's and the settings of the mill a dozen times before putting the cutter to the metal
but all was ok. and once the first is done it's only swapping things on the Jig to do the rest.

P1013199.JPG
Spot face first.

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Then centre drill and up in two stages.

P1013204.JPG

Phew am I glad that's done for the moment.

Brian.
 
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The next stage is to bore the guides for the cam followers I found this a bit hard on the nerves. so I will do one a day.
Happily the jig saves all the set up time . Just fit the head, and bore the first guide ,turn the RT 180° and bore the second.
P1013196 (2).JPG

P1013198 (3).JPG


Plodding on. Brian.
 

Franko

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I'm impressed Brian. I can't believe that you haven't made one or more spares of these complicated parts.

I've never made anything that complicated, but the complicated parts I have made, I tend to make at least one extra to practice the new cuts in case I screw up and ruin one in set up or execution.
 
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Hi Franko.
If you look back when the material arrived you will see I have 6 pieces of each material. but I see no benefit in cutting into the spare piece effectively ruining the material and doing 1/6 more work than I need to. Hopefully at the end I will have some spare material to add to my stock.
If I need to I try to practice as I go, taking finishing cuts before I have the part to size. this way you know what is coming.
It's just my way of working.
Thank you for your interest in my project Brian.
 

Franko

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That makes sense. I suppose it has a lot to do with experience. I only make practice pieces when I'm making a part that requires cuts I've never tried before, especially parts with lots of cuts and set-ups. But, in the scheme of machining experience, I'm still fairly new at it.
 

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When I did my 5 cylinder engine, I did make at least one extra of almost every part, thinking I might mess one up somewhere along the line, especially the parts with lots of operations on them. I ended up with at least one extra of almost every part. I did pick the best looking and or fitting parts to assemble the engine. I keep the extra parts in a plastic box near the model. The nice thing about that is, when someone expresses interest in the model, how it was made or how it works, I can pull out the extra pieces and they can see how the parts look unassembled.

I worked my way through college in a "job shop" machine shop. We would make tens or hundreds if not thousands of the same parts. Labor was expensive, the materials were relatively cheap. So when we did a setup for an operation, we would get it pretty close, make the cut, measure the part, make adjustments, cut another, adjust if necessary and start the run. We'd keep a few of the setup scrap parts to set up the next step. With the turret lathes and automatic screw machines we had, that was really the only way to do it. Now, as a hobby, the material is expensive and the labor is cheap!
 

kvt

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Same here, Private and unable to view. But the parts I see look nice
 

wrmiller

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He did it again. :)

Brian will fix that when next he logs in.
 
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OOps did it again just to keen to finish it Sorry Lads, I will go fix right now
 
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All OK now. If I had a brain just think how dangerous it would be.

Five followers made five to go. The parting off has a high pucker factor. I will be glad when it's over.

Brian.
 

GA Gyro

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My friend...
THAT is impressive work!

This has become one of the threads I look forward to the next post!

Keep up the good work...

GA
 
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The time has come to start cutting the cooling fins. when drawing up the heads these always seemed to be dictating part of the process for everything
Well it all works on paper so off we go. so far the heads have been made full depth without allowance for a gasket this has been done to save this area from possible damage it will be one of the last things to be done so the first cut allows for this and the spacing of the fins
I am doing all five heads together, set up once, then cut all five, then on to the next fin It's quicker to change the head than reset the cut
every time.
p1013207.JPG

P1013208a.JPG
The progress so far.

Brian.
 
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