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Five Cylinder Radial With Ohc

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D

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Hi Ken.
I ordered the blank thick,because I was worried about holding it and thought that I may have to drill into it.,we will see.
When I have it on the face plate it will be reduced to 16mm thick then it will form part of the jig to machine the case. After that it will be reduced to 10mm. and the seating's for the crank bearing also the bearings and pockets for the intermediate gears, On the inside it will be relived to reduce weight.
It also allows the crank to be fitted.
You can get an idea of it's importance on this ghosted drawing, img220.jpg
This may take a while.
Brian.
 
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Next stage.
The blank is now bored to take the 12mm spigot that I have on both 2 and 3 morse tapers so I can center on the lathe and on my rotary table.

P1013339.JPG

Moving on to the lathe the blank is mounted onto the spigot by a draw bolt keeping it hard up to the face plate no need for any other retainers
it was faced and reduced so it will now fit in my 4 jaw chuck for the next part of the work.

P1013340.JPG


Brian.
 

wrmiller

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I came up with the idea of a mt taper blank bored to take a .5" (12mm?) insert with differing diameters on the other end of the insert to center round work on my little 6" rotary table. Glad to see someone already beat me to it! :)
 
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Hi Bill
I have built up a selection of different spigots over time , for me the most important part is the thread in the centre to take a draw bar
it's saved my bacon on more than one occasion.
Brian.
 

rwm

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Is a spigot the same as a mandrel?
R
 
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Thank you for querying the use of the word spigot as against mandrel for a method of location.
I had to think back as to it's origins , It was certainly a word my father would have used for short peg or location, also a cork or bung.
My wife being Scottish uses the word for a tap.
So it was back to the dictionary to see it's real meaning and it turns out all of these are correct. so you are probably right that mandrel
would be the more correct word. Dad would probably have said, yes you are using the spigot as a mandrel, but as he passed away a long time ago and I am 76
I think it's just a ancient memory,
Thanks for the trip down memory lane. Brian.
 
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Now having centred the work in the 4 jaw I am able to reduce the diameter to fit the crankcase jig .
This jig is the size of all the registers on the casing and fits both male and female registers. see post #10.
all work will now be done on this jig
P1013342.JPG


P1013341.JPG

Brian.
 
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The blank is now reduced to it's final thickness and fitted on the jig and centred on the mill.
The ten holes that take the screws that fix the bulkhead in the case are drilled, also the five holes for the screws that hold the bulkhead to the jig when the case is finished these holes will be the lube feed to the countershaft bearings.
P1013344.JPG



P1013350.JPG


Brian.
 
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Now we move on to the case. 5" is to large for my chucks so a simmiler job to the bulkhead , attach it to the rotary table with a draw bolt and carefully mill the top flat.
P1013351.JPG

Then mill out a slot so it will fit onto the 80mm four jaw. the slot must be deeper than the jaws so I have clearance when I bore from the other side.

P1013353.JPG

Mount the blank on the four jaw holding outwards.

P1013354.JPG


Then true up ready to do the important bit..It's awkward to get around the outside so I used a boring bar upside down and run the lathe in reverse.

P1013357.JPG

All trimmed up ready to go.

P1013358.JPG

Slowly slowly Brian.
 
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OK now for the first of the serious stuff. firstly the end has to be bored out 8mm deep to receive 10mm thick blank and a 70mm diameter hole P1013351 (2).JPG

When I get the screws I will fix the Bulkhead in place This will leave a 2mm register protruding.

P1013352 (2).JPG

This then fits the jig that will allow me to to do all the remaining work on the crank case.

P1013353 (2).JPG

When the case is finished the bulkhead will be reworked to fit further into the casing and support the rear main bearing and the five accessory shaft bearings

you can see its position in this drawing.


bulkhead.png

I cannot progress further until the screws arrive, but as this was to be my winters work I have only just ordered them so it may be a while.


Brian.
 

thomas s

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Brian, Nice work and finish on the crankcase. I know it is a little ways away but I hope you explain how the valve timing is setup. thomas s
 
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Hi Thomas
We are probably 2 years away from that point, but I will show all the set up as it goes together, each cylinder has to be set individually.
Brian.
 

wrmiller

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Wow Brian, didn't realize this project will take that long. But something like this would keep me out of the local drinking establishments... :)
 
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Found some temporary screws in the local hardware shop so we are now ready to fit the jig to the lathe and machine the other side.

P1013354 (2).JPG

Slowly slowly. Brian.
 
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With the case on the jig the other way round, I have got the case to it's final external diameter and length.
The internal diameter is very near but I will wait until it cools down, then it will be fitted to the jig adaptor ring that is on the bed in the photo.
The radial position of the case is set by a small dowel pin, you can just see the hole at 11 oc on the case edge.

P1013355.JPG

Brian.
 
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Next morning the ring is made a push fit in the case.

P1013356.JPG

The assembly is now fitted to the rotary table using the ring , small dowel ,and a draw screw
The mill has not been moved from when I drilled the first dowel hole so the hole on the opposite side is drilled in the same position.

P1013357 (2).JPG

Flip over again onto the new locating dowel and fit five large dowels into the main securing holes.
and drill the main case screw holes.

P1013359.JPG

The complete RT can now be turned vertical to machine the flats and locations for the cylinders.
Brian.
 

rwm

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Beautiful! What do you expect for HP, RPM, other parameters?
Robert
 

savarin

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:applause: I have run out of superlatives.
I am in awe of this standard of work.
 
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Hi Robert and all.
I have not given a lot of thought to It's output, firstly I just want to see it run. I don't like screamers, so I am planing to run at 3000 rpm so it sounds right.
Then If I can get enough power I am planing to make an RC aircraft based loosely on the Spirit of St Louis slow with lots of lift likely to be about 11 Ft span.
All pie in the sky Until it runs ????
And thanks to you all for following along
Brian..
 

wrmiller

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It this were my project, I'd be grinning right now like a kid a Christmas! :D
 
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f350ca

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All I can say is WOW Brian. At this rate what are you planning for the winter.

Greg
 

34_40

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Beautiful piece of work right there! Thanks for sharing the ride Brian.
 

kvt

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That is a lot of chips. You should be saving them to melt down and make something else with them.
That looks great, Will you be coating the outside to keep it looking that way or will you let it get a natural patina
 
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f350ca

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Of course you made it weigh less, how else is it ever going to fly. Beautiful work Brian, keep up the posting please.

Greg
 

rwm

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If I made that work of art I could not bring myself to put it on the front end of a flying machine. How about a pusher prop plane! Or an airboat?
R
 
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