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Five Cylinder Radial With Ohc

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savarin

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I've said it before and I'll say it again.
I am in total awe of this project and watching a master of his craft work is fantastic.
Thankyou.
 
D

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Well I am still waiting for a correct gear cutter. so I have been doing a little of the unseen work and having a relaxing time over the new year practising
playing the ukulele.
So I have put together a few of these pic's and a few new ones into a slide show for U tube .

Brian.
 

Scruffy

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Looking forward for more. Unbelieveable skill and knowledge.
Thanks ron
 

Eddyde

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Wow! It's really starting to take shape! Excellent work!
 

Bill W.

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Brian,
Excellent work... Gotta be one of the top projects on the forum! A pleasure to follow your work !!!!!!!!
Thank you... Bill W.
 

FOMOGO

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Looks great! I love radial engines, even the the small ones. Mike
 

kvt

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Can't wait to see the rest of this project, Love the look of it and wish I could do things like that.
 
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Stack the blanks and cut them all at once Charles. It's all downhill after the first one.

"Billy G"
 

chips&more

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Stack the blanks and cut them all at once Charles. It's all downhill after the first one.

"Billy G"
If you stack them, then you need to be careful about cutting tapers that can add up to out of tolerance conditions.
 
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Are you using a mill or lathe to cut them? The taper could happen in the lathe when stacked but it's doubtful in the mill.

"Billy G"
 

chips&more

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Are you using a mill or lathe to cut them? The taper could happen in the lathe when stacked but it's doubtful in the mill.

"Billy G"
It doesn’t matter if done on a lathe or mill. What matters is the machines datum center line holding the arbor and blank(s) must be true to the cutters travel. And I do stack/sandwich blanks on each end of the project being made. When you do this, it helps reduce the possibility of burrs on the project.
 
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Unfortunately the gears are integral with the shafts so each has to be cut on its own.

Brian.
 

MetalMonkey

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I just started reading this thread yesterday. All I can say is WOW! Take this for what it is coming from a newbie. I am in awe! I am amazed! And I am inspired!
 
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Welcome Metal Monkey, and all, don't forget Questions are allowed I enjoy your participation.
Brian.
 

JPigg55

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Beautiful work Brian.
It's been a while since I looked at your progress posts here. I was scrolling through looking at the pictures and noticed an angle indicator on your mill head in one of the pictures.
I apologize if this is a repeat question, but what type set-up do you have for this ??? and how's the accuracy ???
 
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Thank you for your comments JP
With my limited test equipment its difficult to say exactly how accurate the angle cube is , when I use it to set a angle I turn it around and see that I get the opposite reading.
When the cube first arrived I played with it on the surface plate with my combination square,setting the square with the cube then reversing them, and I am confident that this cube is accurate enough for any work I do.
On the mill you must know that the tram is correct and use surfaces that you have confidence in, after using this for four years I now know the spots on the mill casing that match the tram.
In my last video tapping the holes in the casing I used the cube to set the tapping jig .
Regards Brian.
 

woodchucker

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Stunning craftsmanship Brian, you have the whole package. Engineering, humility, workmanship, and patience. Thank you for the excellent material you have shared.
 

JPigg55

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Thanks for the info, hope to see a video of it running soon.
 

kvt

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It is coming along nicely. I wish I could do that kind of work.
 
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After a lazy summer spent sailing and fiddling with the boat. it's time to return to the shop with a clear mind, amazing how things look clearer after a break.
When cutting the gears the shafts where made long to allow tool clearance, so now I have to get them to length and arrange the retainer that will keep the assembly together.

P1013604.JPG

The jig that held the blank for milling was transferred to the lathe. and the parts assembled.

P1013605.JPG

The shaft was turned to length plus a extra .3mm for the nip, then the drilled and tapped to take the retaining screw This tightens in the opposite rotation to the shaft

P1013606.JPG

The drive pin for the pulley now has to be put in, it will be similar to the shear pin found in small outboard motors, retained inside the pulley.
timing is not important because all the timing will be done at the camshaft.
So it's back to the mill with a 1 mm drill and end mill.
Brian.
 

tweinke

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I'm still awestruck by this project, especially when one realizes the actual size.
 
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