Fixing a stripped thread with copper wire

Sorta like the trick of putting toothpick or match stick into a wallered-out wood screw hole. Just be careful the assembly stays dry. Copper and aluminum LOVE to corrode one another. If kept dry, probably fine and dandy.
 
It strikes me (and no, it didn't hurt. . . much) that the disimilar metals could, in most cases, cause electrolisys problems. That's why hman recommended avoiding moisture. Recently, I had acquired some Aluminium "solder" or "welding rods". The actual metal I think is Zinc, but only counts as something less likely to corrode than Copper. The "solder" is about 1/16" per strand and is soft enough to flatten with pliers. If it were at hand, I would think it would make a better "filler" than Copper. Again thinking (not my strong point) that the Zinc would , with time, bond to the aluminium casting making a more reliable repair.

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I think this may be the guy who rebuilt my wife's transmission on her Blazer. She sold the Blazer two day's later.
 
At least in the vid he does mention some of the proper ways to fix the holes, but he rejects all of them for a hack job. If it was a little bracket holding an unimportant part I would say fine go for it. But I consider steering wheel mounts to be a critical part, worth spending a bit more and doing it right.
 
Just thought that it was interesting. I have always either drilled and tapped for the next size larger or used helicoils. In another of his videos he tried an assortment of different backyard fixes for stripped threads using JB Weld and other goop. Then checked how much torque it would take to strip the repaired threads. On a 5/16 bolt all of the others stripped at 6 to 9 lbs of torque. The cooper wire stripped at 15 lbs of torque.
 
Looks like one of those ideas that may be great as a roadside fix that would get you home so you could do a proper repair.

Ted
 
not the guy I want working on anything I own..........
 
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