Fluxmaster 50 OCC Error

See my post here about the issue I had with the original 3 phase motor that came on my 13" SB lathe (read the 1st post):

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-motor-for-my-sb-13-lathe.69608/#post-585610

I'm not saying that this is what your problem is, but it's something to keep in mind. Without current and voltage checks you'll never really know. But anyways, let's hope it's either a wiring or programming problem. Do you have a manual for the VFD? What model is it? It's slightly different than mine since mine will only accept single phase supply voltage. Maybe that's a parameter to check in your programming??? I don't know if it is or not.

Ted
 
Thanks Ted. Nice Lathe!
I am going to pick up a tester today.
Stay tuned
 
Thanks. And I might very well have the same model VFD as you. Mine are both FM50-202-C. I was wrong. Mine will accept a 3-phase input. I just checked.

A current clamp meter will let you see what's going on current wise and a very good investment for a lot of troubleshooting you may have to do in your shop and home.

Ted
 
Are you using that switch shown in the motor picture? Is it wired between the VFD output and the motor input? If the answers are yes, that's a not a good thing. There should be nothing between the output of the VFD (T1, T2, T3) and the actual input of the motor except the wires connecting them. Switching should be done using the low voltage terminals of the VFD. You can probably use the existing switch connected correctly to the low voltage inputs of the VFD called the "Multi-Function Inputs" in the manual. You will also need to program F_03 (Operation Mode) and F_10 Start/Stop Control.
 
That’s the stuff
Thank you
I have a new test meter, I’ll attack this tomorrow
 
Good news!
I picked up a "Ames AC Clamp Meter at HF. I checked the 3 legs of my genuine Bridgeport motor.
3.96
3.98
4.01
Looks good right?
I made some changes to the acceleration time - 5 seconds, and I ran solid dedicated soldered grounds from the motor wiring, from the VFD base to a water pipe.
My mill has been running normally now for over 10 minutes!!!
Whew, I am relieved to see the windings are ok.
Thanks guys!
I am feeling pretty good so far this morning.
Jeff
 
When I turn it off I still get a OCA, "adjust to proper VF curve" "Increase acceleration time" heck I have it at the factory 5 seconds.
Any thoughts on what that means?
VF pattern is 1-6, 1-3 is 50hz, 4-6 is 60hz.
I have it set to 6, I have tried 4 and 5?? No change.
At least I can reset and use it!!
 
I just disconnected the ground. It ran for 5 seconds and shut off. Relates to "transient change in power supply?"
This thing is very sensitive.
 
As far as grounding goes, I don't know the electrical code in California, but here's a Reader's Digest version of how it goes in NY state. Your main breaker box where power comes into your home is bonded to ground, meaning that the box (metal case) and the common/neutral line(s) are tied directly to ground, which is typically a copper ground rod driven into the ground nearby. This is the ONLY spot the system should be tied to ground. Water pipes make excellent grounds (as long as all the pipes are copper/steel and not plastic), but connecting a ground wire or common wire to ground in additional locations can cause ground loops and a lot of problems. I don't think it would pass your electrical code, but I'm not sure. You can ask an electrician or someone that knows their stuff in this area for your state.

What I would do is use wiring that brings in a ground from your breaker box along with the power lines that feed your VFD and use this for your ground. Tie this ground directly to the VFD ground connection, the motor housing, switch housings and machine.

Just curious, what is your input voltage supply voltage (actual measurement with a meter)? What is each leg to ground?

Good luck,
Ted
 
This is what I would do if it was mine.

Verify all wiring is correctly connected and in good shape. That’s probably a dual voltage motor and I would undo and inspect the connections in the motor’s box to verify they are correctly configured for 220 volts and that the wires are not broken in the connections. Wire nuts sometimes will break strands off the ends of wires and the connections go bad. You’ll have to remove the wire nuts (or open the connections if taped) to check. Make sure everything is properly grounded. There’s a diagram in the manual showing a couple of methods for doing this. I assume you are supplying the VFD with 220 single phase. One hot leg goes to L1 and the other goes to L3. The ground coming from your supply voltage goes to the ground terminal on the VFD housing. The ground also connects to the motor casing and machine.

I would check the input voltage across both legs and each leg to ground to make sure it is balanced and at the proper values.

I would reset the VFD to factory defaults and start from there as a base. If you want to go through and write down the setting you have now go ahead. I believe the unit should run OK with the factory defaults. Mine ran fine with the defaults.

Who knows what the previous owner did not only in the VFD settings, but in the wiring as well.

So, after doing this you will have verified your supply voltage, verified the wiring is correct and connections are all good and the VFD is configured to a known good configuration that should allow the motor to properly run. Then go from there changing a single VFD parameter at a time and work up slowly. To start with I would probably only change minimum Hz, maximum HZ, how you plan on controlling the unit (speed pot, external switch, etc.) and that’s it for now. If the base settings aren’t broken, don’t fix them. :)

Good luck,
Ted
 
Back
Top