Ford 300 inline six cylinder engine

This engine is a fantastic inspiration to me and I'm sure many others here, as well as browsing guests. Thanks so much for providing this in such detail. These engineering skills are being lost, but such a high standard set by this build shows a younger cnc generation what used and can still be done.

its great!

cheers

Si ....
 
Thanks for the background. It was certainly not meant as a challenge. What I see is Michelangelo at work and I guess it's rather the lament that the forum is somewhat limited compared to the possibilities that I feel should exist. I envy the hell out of your (obviously) hard earned talent.

I love the I6 and have a personal history with it as well.

I am curious if you have plans/schematics for the carburetor or something similar? I've searched a bit for such a thing but not been able to find much.

Greatly looking forward to seeing this one run (the 302 was cool, do you have plans on putting it to work?).
 
Hi pitchfire
l have drawings of the carb for this engine and others. Tell me what you need and I will see if I have one to suit.
gbritnell
 
I don't have a specific need right now. It is a generalized question I have had for some time. I have seen very basic gas vapor units but this is the first simple carburetor I have seen (maybe I just don't get out enough or to the right places). I would like to do a model engine with my sons soon, just haven't really narrowed it down at all yet.
 
Hi Pitchfire,
Let me know when you're ready and I'll find you one that will be best for what you're building.
gbritnell
 
Only those who have done this type of model work can realize the enormous dedication,time,and craftsmanship that go into such work. And with manual machines!!
 
Gentlemen,
The point was reached where everything was machined except for a few small parts and some additions so the engine was completely disassembled for the final work. When I originally made the crankshaft I didn't know exactly how I was going to mount the flywheel so keyways needed to be cut, front and rear. I utilized the fixture that I had made when the crank was first machined. The keyways were cut using a .062 Woodruff key cutter but for putting in a straight key. The other operation was to drill and tap the front end of the crank for a pulley retaining bolt.
gbritnell

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With the crank finished I turned my attention to the block. A couple of drilled and tapped holes were needed along with a couple of vent holes in the lifter cavity. On my 4 cylinder engine I have a crankcase vent mounted to the side wall of the block but for this engine I wanted it to be through the rocker cover cap so that required drilling 2 vent holes so any excess crankcase pressure would exit up through the lifter cavity and then up through the pushrod holes and out the vent cap in the rocker cover.
gbritnell

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The biggest part of the final machining was to move the dipstick hole. I never did a complete drawing layout of the position when I first drew up the engine and I found that when I made the oil dipstick it interfered with one of the crankshaft counterweights. What to do? I could just use a dummy dipstick, plug it and not use it at all which would leave me no way of checking the oil level or moving the boss. With all the work it took to build the engine it seemed like the last one was the only option.
The original boss would need to be machined off and a patch made to cover that hole and provide material to make the new boss. I did a drawing layout of the area and with a wall thickness of .062 I split that into a .031 depth patch. The only catch was the patch would have a step on both the front and back sides. I set up the block and machined the patch area out and drilled and tapped 0-80 holes in the corners to secure the patch. The patch was then machined leaving excess stock on the actual boss so that I could clamp this in the vise to machine the back side of the patch. This would later be cut down when the boss was developed.
gbritnell

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The mounting screws were turned and threaded leaving a reduced area near the head. When the screws were turned tight they were then twisted and bent until they broke off at the reduced area. I have found this to be and easier way than making the screws, cutting them off, mounting in a fixture to slot the heads and then eventually cutting the slotted area off anyway.
The patch was filed and fitted tightly into the cavity and screwed home. The block was then set up and the boss was shaped and the last couple of thousands of stock machined off. I had to set up my angle table to put the dipstick hole in at 30 degrees. Once the machining was done the boss and patch were filed and polished.
gbritnell

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