Fowler 8" digital caliper

schor

schor

Registered
Registered
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
731
Picked this up and decided to check it out.

Can anyone tell me if I could maybe stone down the fixed jaw a1/2 a thou to make this work properly?

 
I don't use a caliber the same way you do. How much did the new calibers cost?
 
Last edited:
schor said:
Picked this up and decided to check it out.

Can anyone tell me if I could maybe stone down the fixed jaw a1/2 a thou to make this work properly?

Click to expand...

If the anvils of the caliper are slightly concave-versus-convex, a flat will read slightly wider (by the
depth of the concavity) than jaw-against-jaw. That's consistent with the experimental results.
If so, stoning the concave back to flat-and-parallel could improve the readings.
 
Tozguy said:
I don't use a caliber the same way you do. How much did the new calibers cost?
Click to expand...

I got these for nothing, thrown into a tool score of other things I wanted. I had to slam these shut just to get some kind of consistency. They will be used at the side of my computer for when I am measuring something small and want to use more than just a scale.
 
The person that made that video needs to stop using a caliper as a hammer, I have never seen anyone slap a tool against a part loud enough to make a sound and I have worked in machine shops for 30 years.

Also comparing micrometers to calipers is apples and oranges, they are used for different purposes, if I could buy a 12" caliper that would resolve consistently to .0005" I would even if it costs $500.00.

In summation, that tool is fine for its intended purpose, if your hobby is making tool comparison videos on youtube then not so good.

If a caliper is within .001-.002" I am happy.
 
Half thou. That is the best it can do it if it doesn’t read for example 1.000. I would assume that you get the 5 tenths reading if it is 2.5 tenths over. I think that is acceptable for the type of instrument that it is.
 
Last edited:
The problem with stoning down or lapping the main jaws on calipers is that it opens up the ID jaws. The caliper will not be close to .002" accuracy.
I would consider just buying a new set if you use calipers. At 4-6", accuracy will be even worse.
 
EmilioG said:
The problem with stoning down or lapping the main jaws on calipers is that it opens up the ID jaws. The caliper will not be close to .002" accuracy.
I would consider just buying a new set if you use calipers. At 4-6", accuracy will be even worse.
Click to expand...

Why would it be worse? The jaw fit doesn't affect the rack and gear fit. As to the ID jaws... well none of the cheaper sets including the middle price Fowlers seem to exactly match the OD jaws anyway. I always check them against a gage ring first before using them to measure anything. If its less than 1" and its important I usually use my inside mic. If its important and its larger than one inch I use the telescoping bore gages.
 
P.S. The biggest thing I have noticed about calipers by the way is if they get dropped (and aren't totally wrecked from it) the tips may get mushroomed from hitting a hard floor. This prevents them from closing fully. If you zero with them closed and then measure something on the flats of the jaws it will be off. I suggest examining the jaw tips under a magnifying glass or a microscope.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top