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Franko's Hf Engine Hoist Mod

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Franko

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Every time I've needed to use my HF engine hoist, the support feet weren't wide enough for the task. I decided to make new support feet that would be wide enough to fit around the stands I have my equipment on.

hoist stock_0743.JPG

First the plan. I decided on Z legs that would provide a little more then 32" clearance between them.
For the center of the Z, I opted for schedule 40 2.5" pipe with 3/6" wall. I thought the round tube would be less prone to torque than square tube, though a bit more work.
The wheels of the arms will line up pretty close to the original wheel position, as shown with the dotted lines. I was concerned they might want to twist with a load on them. Since they line up, I don't think that will be a problem. If it is, I'll run something across them through the tube. It will have to be removable, as they won't fold up with it in place.
The rest is made with the stock tubing.

hoistmod.jpg

First, I marked the cuts on the stock tubing. I used a ruler with the legs mounted.
This pic was posed after the fact. I wedged the legs in the slot to keep them parallel to the angle.

Marking legs_0748.JPG

With the legs marked, I made some wooden wedges to hold them in the correct angle in my horizontal band saw. I didn't want to turn the clamp because it is a pain to get it perfectly square again.

saw wedge_0756.JPG

To mark the birds mouth notches in the square tube, I cut a 1" section of the pipe for a guide and clamped a straight edge to draw the cutouts for the 8 cuts.

notch marker_0766.JPG

I'll cut birds mouths with my plasma torch. I measured the distance from the edge of the nozzle (3/16") and cut some circles 3/16" larger than the tube in 1/2" MDF for torch guides. That thickness guide holds my nozzle about 1/16" up from the cut, which is perfect. Two circles made 4 guides, in case I burned some up.

cutting plasma guide_0759.JPG

After cutting them in half, making guide lines and marking the pieces, I clamped them up for cutting.

IMG_0773.JPG

I clamped two pieces at a time for cutting the birds mouths.
None of my guides burned up. A little dross and some paint to grind off.

clamped guides_0772.JPG

After all the notches were cut, I layed everything out to check to see if they would work.
Everything looks good. Ready to weld!

test fit_0778.JPG

That's enough for now. I'm half done with the welding. To be continued...
 
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JimDawson

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Never thought of using MDF for a torch guide. Looks like it held up very well! :encourage:
 

brav65

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Nice work Franko. I will keep this in mind for my lift. I have been pondering a design that would allow for adjusting the legs. I was thinking about a protractor type arrangement with a pin to lock the leg in place.
 

Franko

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Never thought of using MDF for a torch guide. Looks like it held up very well! :encourage:
Oh yeah, it works great, Jim. I've made all kinds of torch guides with MDF and 1/2 plywood, from straight edges to small circles for neat holes to run conduit on my utility trailer, and big radiuses to make a filler mud stop for my trailer fenders.

For my plasma torch, 1/2" holds the tip up from the cut surface 1/16". It seems to cut better held off some.
 

Franko

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Nice work Franko. I will keep this in mind for my lift. I have been pondering a design that would allow for adjusting the legs. I was thinking about a protractor type arrangement with a pin to lock the leg in place.
I doubt anyone who's ever used one of them for anything but installing an engine hasn't thought of modifying it, whilst muttering dirty words. I thought about it for months and decided this simple solution would work for my needs.

I considered using nesting tube to make the legs width adjustable, but it's made with metric square tube, which is stupendously expensive in my neck of the woods, and it would have to be DOM tube and still be unlikely to have a close enough fit.
 
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bpratl

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Oh yeah, it works great, Jim. I've made all kinds of torch guides with MDF and 1/2 plywood, from straight edges to small circles for neat holes to run conduit on my utility trailer, and big radiuses to make a filler mud stop for my trailer fenders.
For my plasma torch, 1/2" holds the tip up from the cut surface 1/16". It seems to cut better held off some.
Franko, great idea in using MDF as a guide. I purchased a plasma cutter last year and now I have a new method for cutting intrigue parts. Thanks. Bob
 

Franko

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This morning I finished the welding.
The long legs were clamped with a long pipe clamp and tacked.

hoist long clamp_0779.JPG

A slightly different set-up to clamp the short pieces. I used one of the wood wedges I made to cut them to give flat purchase for the clamp.

short clamp_0781.JPG

After tacking, I MIG welded everything. The welds came out ok for me.
I'm pretty happy with the fillet weld on the right. They aren't my forte.

avg weld_0783.JPG fillet weld_0784.JPG

As an experiment, I tried out the non-automatic helmet. I was supposed to be able to see better with.
As you can see, I couldn't see anything and totally missed the joint and had to make another pass.
I cleverly did this on the bottom where it won't be seen.

crooked weld_0782.JPG

I installed the legs to see if they work. It seems to be okie dokie. Nothing left to do but paint them.

finished_0787.JPG

Here it is with the legs in the stowed position.
Oops. The bad weld is showing. Looks like I'll have to grind some before painting.

stowed_0789.JPG

Phase one of the hoist mod is done but for the painting.
Phase two will be a knob for the jack screw. To be continued...
 
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Ed ke6bnl

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That is on my todo list sooner than later. I can't lift machinery with the silly V shape. Very nicely done.
 

Ed ke6bnl

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I tacked on a small 3/8 socket to the jack and use a ratchet with a handle long enough to control the lowering.
 

Bill C.

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Looks good, consider spraying a little paint inside the tubes or adding caps to the end of them.
 

Franko

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I tacked on a small 3/8 socket to the jack and use a ratchet with a handle long enough to control the lowering.
Not a bad idea, Ed. I'd be concerned with ruining a seal welding on that stub. The plan is just a knob that I can use on both my shop press and the hoist. I saw a cool one that was made with a round faucet handle.

Hi
Are you going to do a Max test lift on it
Jeff, I don't have anything heavy enough to do a max lift test. I'm pretty confident with the welding, and each one is welded on all 4 sides. I put my weight on the hook and didn't see any movement or torquing to cause concern.

Looks good, consider spraying a little paint inside the tubes or adding caps to the end of them.
Ed, the schedule 40 tube is painted (or whatever that black coating is) on the inside. I sprayed in as far as it would go when I painted the cut ends.
 

Franko

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Phase 2 is done (I hope). We'll see how the brass holds up.

I used an old chem lab faucet stem from my plumbing scraps. I cut off the washer part and trimmed down the water flow adjusting threads. Then, drilled a hole and milled some slots.

My jack valve wrench. Cost, $0. It took about an hour to make.
It seems to work well.

jack release_0790.JPG
 

Franko

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Thanks, Ed, John.
And, thanks to all who've looked, liked and commented.

I'm not sure what phase 3 will be. Probably some sort of organizer to keep my lifting straps and 800# ratcheting tie down that I use to balance the loads. Maybe a waterproof stuff sack and hanging hardware. And probably a stowage hook or ring for the pump valve wrench.

I have an idea for more compact long-term stowage, using a couple big hooks to hang the legs more compactly against the boom.
 
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Nice work Franko!
 

Whyemier

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Nice work. Now I have something else to aspire to. Man You guys comeup with ideas I gotta do but don't have time to. Dang!
 

hman

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I'm not sure what phase 3 will be.
Here are a couple changes I made to my own engine hoist. The first is very simple - spray paint white around the holes in the arm, so they're easier to see and align with the "master" hole:
Hoist mod 2.jpg
Secondly, find a good, forged eyebolt and install it in the end of the arm opposite the chain. This is handy if you need just a skosh more height. I added a chunk of ¼" steel below the nut to spread the load a bit. Cross drill the end of the stud and add some kind of safety wire or clip, so it won't unscrew. Flip the arm as needed to use one or the other.
Hoist mod 1.jpg
 

Franko

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I like that, John. I just shortened the chain and hook to two links on mine. I like the eye-bolt because you can rotate it to adjust the alignment on what you are lifting.
 

markknx

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Franko Nice work on the hoist. Great Idea just be careful on heavy picks as now you have added a twist factor to the load on the support feet. probably not an issue just thought I would throw it in there.
 

Franko

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Franko Nice work on the hoist. Great Idea just be careful on heavy picks as now you have added a twist factor to the load on the support feet. probably not an issue just thought I would throw it in there.
There doesn't seem to be much twist, Mark. I was concerned about that. The geometry is pretty close to stock. The wheels are just a couple inches wider than the line from the angled mounts. I'll be watching that the next heavy thing I lift. If they seem to be twisting, I can clamp a bar across the legs either through or under the tube section of the legs. I left them open for just that eventuality.
 

AirWolf

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Really a great idea!! I am envious of all you guys that do such wonderful fabrication jobs. I'm just a beginner in this hobby but hopefully someday will be able to do just a bit of what you guys seem to do so easily.

I do download all your photos so please keep them coming on all your projects!
 

zmotorsports

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Nice job Franko. It turned out great and well thought out.

Mike.
 

sanddan

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hman,

Be very carefull with your eye bolt mod as that is much less strong than the factory design. The load is only supported by the lower face of the tube, about 1/8" thick material, and could tear out with enough load. The cracks would start at the tube opening at each lower corner and then follow the corners. With the factory design the bolt is in double shear, which is good, and is supported by both sides of the tube. Any failure (other than the bolt or chain) would require the bolt to tear through the tube in the middle of that section. I have this same hoist and I have seen the lift arm flex under load enough to see a curve in it. The eye bolt mod should work fine for a few hundred lbs but not for the rated load. I will be using mine to remove the motor on my mill and I plan on adding an extension tube to the lift arm to increase the lift height but the motor is under 100 lbs so not too concerned. Capping the end of the tube would add strength but it still would not be as strong. It all depends on what you are lifting.

Dan
 

Franko

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My suggestion would to add a air jack. I added one to mine years ago and have worn out 2 sets of casters on it since I use it so much! http://www.harborfreight.com/8-ton-long-ram-air-hydraulic-jack-94562.html
I don't expect to use the hoist very often, Pontiac Freak. It it were something I use more than once a month, I might consider it. The longest jack is from folded to up. I can just pull it by hand to about perpendicular.

Nice job Franko. It turned out great and well thought out.
Mike.
Thanks, Mike
 

hman

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hman,

Be very carefull with your eye bolt mod as that is much less strong than the factory design. The load is only supported by the lower face of the tube, about 1/8" thick material, and could tear out with enough load. The cracks would start at the tube opening at each lower corner and then follow the corners. With the factory design the bolt is in double shear, which is good, and is supported by both sides of the tube. Any failure (other than the bolt or chain) would require the bolt to tear through the tube in the middle of that section. I have this same hoist and I have seen the lift arm flex under load enough to see a curve in it. The eye bolt mod should work fine for a few hundred lbs but not for the rated load. I will be using mine to remove the motor on my mill and I plan on adding an extension tube to the lift arm to increase the lift height but the motor is under 100 lbs so not too concerned. Capping the end of the tube would add strength but it still would not be as strong. It all depends on what you are lifting.

Dan
Thanks, Dan. Hadn't thought of that aspect of the design. Fortunately, I'm extremely conservative in my use of the hoist - NEVER had anything bend! But I'll continue to keep an eye on the end of the arm.
 
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