From Lakebom184 Question On Atlas

lakebom184

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Hi Nels,
I realize this is a awkward request but I'm unable to post this question on your
website probably due to my lack of computer savvy.Being a total newbie I recently
obtained an Atlas 10d with vertical motormount and a 5/8 " leadscrew which I
believe would date to pre-WW2. Rather than have oilers for the spindle there are
grease zerks. This is totally confusing as I have never seen them on the research
I had done( after the purchase unfortunately) Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you!


[Note: I posted it here for him. Nels]
 
I have watched my dad take an oil can and press it into the ball of what looked like a zerk fitting and give it some oil.
Is there such a thing as an "oil zerk"? I grew up seeing this, just only in dad's garage, never in a factory or anything.
Maybe dad was the PO! :)
Regardless, is there such a thing? Or would there be an advantage in such a thing? They seemed to work fine for my dad, anyway.
 
Lakebom,

The Atlas 10D dates from approximately 1936 and 1937, after which it was superceded by the 10F made from 1938 through 1957. The 10D was available with both babbit and Timken tapered roller bearings, although the babbit bearing headstocks appear to be more common. Both originally had oil cups of the press-in type with spring-loaded top covers. As Spiral-Chips indicated, grease is not a good idea for babbit bearings and although it is commonly used in most tapered roller automotive wheel bearings (where use of oil is impractical plus the grease all rotates with the wheel and gravity can help a little bit to keep it distributed), it is inferior to oil for the reasons given plus once used, you can't go back to oil without first pulling the spindle and thoroughly washing out all of the dried grease. The grease will prevent oil getting to the bearings and will in just a few years dry out.

"Zerk" is or was the name of a company offering machine lubrication system components. They may have been the inventors of the so-called "Zerk" fittings as well as the chuck for connecting the grease injection gun to them. The name came to be synonymous with the fitting, although it has fallen into dis-use in recent years. If one of the fittings has never had grease through it, I suppose that with the proper tip on the delivery tube of the oil can you could use one as an oil fitting. But fittings are available (usually flat press-in style) for the function that work much better. They also have a spring-loaded ball to seal the injection hole and because they are flat around the ball are much easier to use. To install the grease fittings, the PO (Previous Owner) had to tap the holes in the bearing caps. But if he did not enlarge the holes first, you can probably re-install the proper oil cups. If your machine has babbit bearings, remove one bearing cap at a time and remove any old grease from the hole. Don't lose the shim packs that should be present under both ends of the cap. If it has Timken bearings, you will have to remove the spindle, bearings and dust caps in order to clean out all of the old grease. No one has to my knowledge ever come up with a 10D parts manual. B download the one on the 10F plus if you have Timken bearings the Atlas headstock Technical Bulletin. Aside from the plate that the motor switch mounts to, the two bearing versions of the headstocks are substantially the same.
 
Lakebom,

The Atlas 10D dates from approximately 1936 and 1937, after which it was superceded by the 10F made from 1938 through 1957. The 10D was available with both babbit and Timken tapered roller bearings, although the babbit bearing headstocks appear to be more common. Both originally had oil cups of the press-in type with spring-loaded top covers. As Spiral-Chips indicated, grease is not a good idea for babbit bearings and although it is commonly used in most tapered roller automotive wheel bearings (where use of oil is impractical plus the grease all rotates with the wheel and gravity can help a little bit to keep it distributed), it is inferior to oil for the reasons given plus once used, you can't go back to oil without first pulling the spindle and thoroughly washing out all of the dried grease. The grease will prevent oil getting to the bearings and will in just a few years dry out.

"Zerk" is or was the name of a company offering machine lubrication system components. They may have been the inventors of the so-called "Zerk" fittings as well as the chuck for connecting the grease injection gun to them. The name came to be synonymous with the fitting, although it has fallen into dis-use in recent years. If one of the fittings has never had grease through it, I suppose that with the proper tip on the delivery tube of the oil can you could use one as an oil fitting. But fittings are available (usually flat press-in style) for the function that work much better. They also have a spring-loaded ball to seal the injection hole and because they are flat around the ball are much easier to use. To install the grease fittings, the PO (Previous Owner) had to tap the holes in the bearing caps. But if he did not enlarge the holes first, you can probably re-install the proper oil cups. If your machine has babbit bearings, remove one bearing cap at a time and remove any old grease from the hole. Don't lose the shim packs that should be present under both ends of the cap. If it has Timken bearings, you will have to remove the spindle, bearings and dust caps in order to clean out all of the old grease. No one has to my knowledge ever come up with a 10D parts manual. B download the one on the 10F plus if you have Timken bearings the Atlas headstock Technical Bulletin. Aside from the plate that the motor switch mounts to, the two bearing versions of the headstocks are substantially the same.
 
Thank you for your help. It does in fact have babbit bearings & bearing caps. Removed one to discover shim(s) on one side. Fastenal sells the oil gits. Comparing that to Ebay. The carriage is one piece as I'm sure you are aware of but the gib for the cross slide held by four small machine screws , (no nuts) is some sort of plastic. Am a senior with a backround in auto mechanics, air-cooled VWs. Again thank you for your help. I find this, for me, hobby fascinating.
Did order Tubalcains flashdrive on the Atlas.
Bill
 
Assuming that the plastic gib is factory, they didn't shift to using plastic until sometime in the 1970's. So the gib isn't original to the machine, whether it is factory or home made. I would recommend making a new one out of steel. The plastic gibs are one of the late cost saving mistakes that Clausing bean counters made. Fortunately, they never did that with the carriage gib..
 
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