H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
- Mar 21, 2013
This one is a gunsmith's kit (frame and slide already fitted) from Brownells.Nice. Where do you get your slides and frames.?
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As close to zero as I can get. I don't like seeing any gap/light between the slide and comp. When I had access to a surface grinder I could get them to the point where the line between the two would virtually disappear when the pistol went into battery. But I will get it as close as I can, without it being an interference fit, with what I have. Probably have to hand work the last little bit because of the angles. What's that blue stuff the hand scrapers use? I could try that for the final fitment as Dykem dries too fast.Very cool wrmiller!
What sort of clearance are you leaving between the slide and compensator?
One of my first wide-body 1911s was built on a early aluminum para-ordnance .45 cal frame (steel didn't come out until almost a year later IIRC). The frame was rough, and the magazines pretty much junk, but I wanted to build a high-capacity gun for the USPSA sectionals in Mesa, AZ without resorting to 9mm major which the paid shooters were blowing up trying to get one to hold together. The .45 mags couldn't hold the 10mm auto, so after my mentor told me about a 'Centimeter' wildcat round, I decided to go with it and trimmed about 1000 pieces of 10mm brass to centimeter length. Used three chambers, .3" wide IIRC. Worked great, lots of shooters were checking out the gun and I even managed to get FTD on a couple of stages, beating Robby and Brian. Finished 3rd in Master Class. Not bad for a lefty shooting right handed (right eye is my master eye). Later when I was trying some really hot 'hunting' loads, a friend was shooting video and captured the muzzle of the gun actually dipping 'downwards' during recoil. But I also noticed that there was a significant amount of gasses following the bullet out the end of the comp. The 10mm Auto has a larger case, and more powder, so I figured that a extra port wouldn't hurt.Very nice. I went back looking for a barrel bushing. Then I realized it was a bull barrel (.685"-40 TPI). Doh!!!
I like the look of the ports. Should be pretty effective with the pressure of the 10mm.
I went straight into the comp (90 degrees) with the barrel, so I had to angle the backside of the comp where it touches the slide. I did clean up the end of the slide slightly to remove some imperfections and tooling marks, but the angle is on the back of the comp. And as I like to fit my barrels a bit high for high(er) power loads I'm not sure 1 degree would be sufficient, so I ended up fitting the slide/comp interface by hand with files and sandpaper. Old School.Looks good! Did you use the one degree angle cut on the front of the slide or is it 90 degrees flat?
I am whining a bit, true, but I'm just ****** at the rolled edges on the slide flats and other imperfections in this thing. If I had a surface grinder I'd just thin the sides of the slide and comp a bit in an attempt to get rid of the lousy edges. I like those 'slice your thumb open' knife edges where the comp and slide meet.Bill to my untrained eye it looks great! I am still getting used to the tolerances you all expect on your projects, after having worked with wood my whole life it is quite an adjustment.
I'm out of threads on the barrel. I've never attempted to pick up an existing thread before so I'm really not wanting to attempt that on the lathe. I guess I could look on Brownells to see if they have a .685" tap and die set. They probably do. That would be the safest route.You could set the comp back one turn and refit?
How are you holding it in battery while you belt grind the contour?
It's looking good!
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It is not that difficult if you can get the part/barrel dialed in. Once that is done I set my cutter height and compound angle, engage the half nut and then loosen the tool in the holder. Run the tool into a thread and let is self adjust to the thread, tighten, and double check. Use some dykem on the threads and manually turn the chuck to verify.I'm out of threads on the barrel. I've never attempted to pick up an existing thread before so I'm really not wanting to attempt that on the lathe.