- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 3,617
I use my Shenwai SW900B lathe to do a lot of my projects.
this time i wanted to make a full-time tailstock center drill holder,
the problem was that i never cut a morse taper before on a lathe.
i doubted my ability to make a concentric tool with a MT2 taper that actually worked.
that had to change.
if i was to succeed, i would need to rise to my challenge and go and do something about it
after going through a what seemed like a semester of virtual trigonometry and watching hours upon hours of videos
i came across fellow member, @Halligan142 's videos on cutting a MT2 taper
here is a link to the video that inspired my confidence
a well made production , it's for another purpose i'll leave for his description.
i stole an idea from him and wanted to give the credit where it was due.
enjoy his video!
after watching the video,
i got up and went directly to my garage shop
i had a leftover 7" long X 1" diameter piece of unknownium, left from a project completed yesterday
here was the shaft before the 2 projects...
Here are the Cliff's Notes , using the formula Halligan142 used in his video:
tailstock offset=(Length of Part X Taper per foot)/24
in other words, the offset for the tailstock is determined by the length of stock multiplied by the taper in inches per foot.
you then divide the product of the afore by 24 to find the offset you will introduce.
in my case, i made my unknonium 7.00" long
my arithmetic worked out like this...
7"long x .5994= 4.1958
4.1958/24=.1748"
so my tailstock offset should be .1748"
using a shop made test bar, i indicated the tailstock straight as a verified reference point before the offset
i put a dial indicator on my apron and measured the tailstock's creep towards me as i adjusted the tailstock offset screws.
after rounding up slightly, i dialed in .1750" offset.
i used the threading feeds to hog off most of the material with a HSS Roughing grind at .020"passes.
when i came down to getting within about .030" of what i figured was final dimension,
i switched to TT style carbide inserts and slowed the feedrate to finest feed rate possible
the cuts came out silky smooth!!!!
here is a picture of the first fit up in the tailstock
still need 2 small .001" passes to get right
after working the newly formed MT2 arbor with scotchbrite and 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper
i got this as a result...
if you really look-you can faintly see the blue on my shop made arbor
it covers a very nice contact area, that i'm proud to have constructed
eager to compare my newly crafted joy,
i compared the MT2 taper my normally used live center sets on
maybe you can tell by the poor picture,
but my new taper had about 30% more contact area than the old MT2 taper on my live center, that i thought was very accurate
i still need to part the excess material off the arbor,
but that will be left for act 2
same bat time, same bat channel!!!
this time i wanted to make a full-time tailstock center drill holder,
the problem was that i never cut a morse taper before on a lathe.
i doubted my ability to make a concentric tool with a MT2 taper that actually worked.
that had to change.
if i was to succeed, i would need to rise to my challenge and go and do something about it
after going through a what seemed like a semester of virtual trigonometry and watching hours upon hours of videos
i came across fellow member, @Halligan142 's videos on cutting a MT2 taper
here is a link to the video that inspired my confidence
a well made production , it's for another purpose i'll leave for his description.
i stole an idea from him and wanted to give the credit where it was due.
enjoy his video!
after watching the video,
i got up and went directly to my garage shop
i had a leftover 7" long X 1" diameter piece of unknownium, left from a project completed yesterday
here was the shaft before the 2 projects...
Here are the Cliff's Notes , using the formula Halligan142 used in his video:
tailstock offset=(Length of Part X Taper per foot)/24
in other words, the offset for the tailstock is determined by the length of stock multiplied by the taper in inches per foot.
you then divide the product of the afore by 24 to find the offset you will introduce.
in my case, i made my unknonium 7.00" long
my arithmetic worked out like this...
7"long x .5994= 4.1958
4.1958/24=.1748"
so my tailstock offset should be .1748"
using a shop made test bar, i indicated the tailstock straight as a verified reference point before the offset
i put a dial indicator on my apron and measured the tailstock's creep towards me as i adjusted the tailstock offset screws.
after rounding up slightly, i dialed in .1750" offset.
i used the threading feeds to hog off most of the material with a HSS Roughing grind at .020"passes.
when i came down to getting within about .030" of what i figured was final dimension,
i switched to TT style carbide inserts and slowed the feedrate to finest feed rate possible
the cuts came out silky smooth!!!!
here is a picture of the first fit up in the tailstock
still need 2 small .001" passes to get right
after working the newly formed MT2 arbor with scotchbrite and 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper
i got this as a result...
if you really look-you can faintly see the blue on my shop made arbor
it covers a very nice contact area, that i'm proud to have constructed
eager to compare my newly crafted joy,
i compared the MT2 taper my normally used live center sets on
maybe you can tell by the poor picture,
but my new taper had about 30% more contact area than the old MT2 taper on my live center, that i thought was very accurate
i still need to part the excess material off the arbor,
but that will be left for act 2
same bat time, same bat channel!!!
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