[How-To] Furmas

[lordbeezer]

How would one replace the black plastic type bars that the contact arms are attached to. One stud broke out of the black bars on a furmas reversing controller. Series R4. Don’t see s way to replace it. Thanks

 

[matthewsx]

Go talk with your local electrical supply house, they will know what you need.

JOhn

How would one replace the black plastic type bars that the contact arms are attached to. One stud broke out of the black bars on a furmas reversing controller. Series R4. Don’t see s way to replace it. Thanks

 

[lordbeezer]

I’m sure they would be happy to sell me a new switch. Would rather replace the black bar if I can figure out how to remove. Thanks

 

[Bi11Hudson]

The "black bar" is very likely Bakelite, an older plastic, as an insulator. A good epoxy will sorta hold it together but may not be as strong as the original part. The next choice would be an acrylic (Plexi-glass) or a poly-carbonate (Lexan) to make a replacement.

As far as dis-assembly, the only insight I can offer is that anything that was assembled can be taken apart again. Sometimes you need a long caffeine fix and just stare at it for a while. It will come apart. . . The only problem is rivets, they have to be replaced.

My general perception for such a device is to replace it with a new one. Unless you specificly want to keep the original condition. There are a number of replacment parts, some expensive, some not so. A while back, I found a cheap switch that suited my parameters and ordered more than a half dozen. The idea was to "standardize" my parts and a spare or two. A little under $15 bux, each at the time.

 

[markba633csi]

Agree with Bill: epoxy is worth a try- JB weld isn't the strongest type, but it's cheap and readily available. Cure it at 150-200 deg. F for 3-4 hours for best result. I use a light bulb as a heater, placed near the part. Should have a shiny smooth surface when cured
-Mark

 

[matthewsx]

I’m sure they would be happy to sell me a new switch. Would rather replace the black bar if I can figure out how to remove. Thanks

Perhaps a picture would better illustrate what you are trying to do. Yes, I do tend to replace electrical parts when they fail, maybe JB weld would work but it might just end up costing me time I could have been using the machine.

Electrical supply house staff "can" be very helpful if approached with the right attitude, sometimes they've even seen your problem before and will know what the fix is. Totally depends on the salesman and how he's feeling that day.

John

 

[Ulma Doctor]

unless you can find a contact kit for the contactor, replace it

 

[Ulma Doctor]

if you can post a picture, i may be able to donate the contactor

 

[projectnut]

You'll need to know the size of the contactor as well as the model to know what parts may be available. Contactors range in size from 00 to 7. Here's a link to a NEMA chart showing the various sizes, amperage ratings and voltage ratings. Once the size is determined you can do a search on eBay for potential replacement parts.

Nema Starters

Nema sized contactors or starters.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

If yours is i size 00 or 0 complete new contactors and most parts are often be available a reasonable cost. As an FYI Furnas has changed hands several times over the years and is currently owned by Siemens. I have been able to find new take off contactors for my older size 0 Furnas starters for only a few dollars. I'm not familiar with the R4 series, but all contactors I have had experience with can be disassembled to replace the contactor points and related hardware.

I found new magnetic coils for less than $20.00 each, and contacts between $13.00 and $18.00 per set.

Another option would be to change out the complete contactor/starter combination for an Allen Bradley setup. I was able to buy a complete NOS control cabinet with relays, reversing starters, including the magnetic coils and contactors for $99.00. If or when the Furnas controls die, or I can no longer find replacement parts at a reasonable cost I'll swap out the complete system.

 

[lordbeezer]

I’ve always called this a forward reverse switch. Might have muddied the water calling it what fumas does. That one contact has loose several times over the years. Rest look like new