G0602 Cross Slide / Compound Dial Conflict

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HBilly1022

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I've got a King 1022 which is a rebranded G0602 and find there is a conflict between the compound and cross slide dials when using shallow compound angles, like 0* - 5*. The compound dial hits the cross slide dial and prevents me from turning the compound in and out. I've tried mounting the tool back further and pushing the compound forward and mounting the tool out further and bringing the compound back further but can't seem to find a spot that works.

Does anyone have a solution to this issue?

Correction: the conflict angle is when the compound is anywhere near 90*. I'll take a pic if that helps.
 
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Pictures always help:)

CHuck the grumpy old guy
 
OK, here's a pic showing the problem. If my King is in fact the same as the Grizzly G0602, there must be a fix for this, since there are so many G0602 owners around with numerous posts about improvements. For the last project I ended up taking the handles off the dial wheel and that gave me just enough room to complete the work.

DSCN2105.JPG
 
I believe mine (a G0602) does the same thing. It's never been a problem for me though, I usually keep the compound sitting at about 30 degrees.
I'll try to remember to check for sure the next time I get up to the shop... (which might not be until the weekend).
 
OK, I finally got a chance to look at my G0602 and yes, I CAN get the compound handle to run into my cross slide handle, but it never has
become an issue for me. When I look at the photo you sent, it shows the compound oriented in line to the cross slide. I can't
understand what you would want this configuration for. I always have used my compound at some angle to the cross slide, quit often at 90
degrees to it. You probably have a good reason for using the lathe in this configuration, but I can't understand what for.

What are you trying to do with the lathe in this configuration?

I guess that you could remove the handles on the compound to gain more
back travel without running into the cross slide, this would give you little bit more travel until it becomes a problem and then you could
remove the cross side handle for even more clearance. It would be a real pain in the **** to use it this way though.

CHuck the grumpy old guy
 
I ran into this issue when I was trying to sharpen end mills in the lathe, using a pencil die grinder. I saw a youtube video where a guy attached the pencil grinder to the tool post and set the compound at 88* so he could put a back relief on the cutting edge of the mill end. I tried it and it looks like it will work if I get a better grinder but it's a PITA to have to remove the handles or wheel to perform this operation. I'm thinking that if I do this enough, I may make and extension of some sort to bolt onto the end of the compound, or I'll have to figure out some other way of doing it.

Here's a link to the video:
 
I came up with a solution for my problem. I made a tool holder and arbor that would extend the grinding wheel forward enough that I could pull the compound slide back far enough to avoid the cross slide wheel conflict.

Here is a pic of the tool holder with grinder installed. The second pic is of the 5/8" mill end that I ground with it.
upload_2016-3-2_21-9-1.png
upload_2016-3-2_21-22-34.png


The first time I ground the mill end I just had the primary grind angle all the way across the bit, with no secondary angle. That worked fine for about 1 minute when I used it. Back to the internet and some more reading. I discovered the secondary angle was required. So I reground it and added the secondary angle, by eye, and that made a huge difference. I was able to use the mill end for a lot more cutting before it got dull. The pic looks like the grind is very rough but in real life it looks and feels much smoother. In any case it is a lot better than throwing the mill end out or having to buy a new one.

I'm a newbie at milling and I'm sure as I get more experience with milling and sharpening I will get better at both.

I'm much happier though, knowing that I can regrind the end mills after I dull them. Life is getting better.:)

Edit. I forgot to mention; the aluminum tool holder is REALLY homemade, since I melted down scrap aluminum and formed it into an ingot and used that to make the tool holder. I considered trying to mold the thing but I already had an ingot that was about the right overall size, so I figured I would just machine it instead.
 
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Looks like a good solution to the problem. I assume you are covering the ways with something while grinding, and removed it for clarity in the pics. If not, that grinding grit will eat your ways for breakfast.
 
I checked my 602 and it is the same. I can see where you might want to cut a bevel on the face of a part where you would need to set an angle close to 90º. The 602 will have compromised travel for angle set within 12.5º of 90º. My Atlas 6 x 18 has the same problem and I suspect many other lathes will as well. There will be a compromise between convenient crank diameters, range of tool height, and available compound angles, most likely an issue with smaller lathes rather than large.

A workaround could be to rotate the compound 180º although it puts the compound crank at an awkward and possibly unsafe position, depending upon what you are doing. I machined a secondary location for the compound at the back of the cross feed table so I have the option of working from the backside of the lathe. As mentioned above, the cross feed crank could be removed to give you the clearance needed although it would be a PITA to have to do this. If there is a need to use compound angles in that range very often, a new cross feed crank could be made which reduced the diameter or extended the distance from the apron.
 
Ben, thanks for pointing that out. The first time I ground the mill ends I didn't have the ways covered and as soon as I moved the saddle I seen all of the grinding dust on the ways. It was immediately cleaned up and the next time the ways got covered. Hopefully I won't forget that again.

RJ, I understand the issue of the wheel conflict and that it would be more prevalent on smaller machines, that have limited swing to work with. There's a guy on youtube that calls himself "xynudu" that has what he calls a "cheap chinese lathe" and that is where I got the idea for the lathe grinding setup. His small lathe doesn't have this conflict and I can't tell from his videos what is different about his setup. I'm going to take another look at his videos to see if I can spot the difference. I have considered making smaller wheels but don't think I would be happy with that. They are small enough already. In any case I don't envision using the compound on those angles, other than for this grinding set up and I now have that solved. If I do run into another project that results in the same problem I will have to come up with a more universal solution.
 
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