G0602 cross-slide gib adjustment/installation after 6-bolt compound mod?

You stoned everything right to knock off all the burrs? Im thinking if you did everything right on the slide then maybe the cross feed screw and nut are out of alignment. How about putting it back together, oil everything with way oil (vactra 2), do not put in the crossfeed feed screw in and adjust the gib so you can slide in a .0015" feeler gage between it and the top saddle/cross-slide ways. When I tighten a gib like that, I tighten outside screws first leaving the middle ones loose. Using the feeler gage so you have clearance (plus I will attach a You Tube on adjusting gib at end) Then just snug the middle one up. You look like a strong guy so be careful to not over tighten everything.

Then try to slide the cross slide by hand back and forth. It should push back and forth easy. with side gib screw nuts tight also.

Then pull the slide to the front or nearest to the operator. Leave feed screw nut snug so it can self align when you screw in the feed screw. With the slide still closest to you, screw in the feed screw in as far as it will go and it's bracket is up against the saddle. Then tighten up the bracket and brass feed nut. You may have to lift the bracket up a bit as gravity may make it drop a bit. Then it should be OK if that's the issue.

The scraping issue is what happens when you buy the inexpensive machines. Oh you can check the gib to see if its bent by laying it on a flat surface and use a small plastic hammer and tap on it all over. listen to hear if it slaps or open sound. If it is flat the noise will be solid sounding,can also see if you can slide in the feeler gage. Most gibs can be bent back as long as you don't push to hard. Try what I said and lets see if that helps. Rich

The You tube is on a bigger mill and has a tapered gib, but you can do it with the straight gib to on a lathe. Same principal.
It's better to have the gib looser on unscraped ways, so .0005" clearance per side of so oil can spread on both sides. Total of .001" to .0015. Push on it and let go and check the actual slop. You a strong guy and could bend it if you push to hard.
 
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fitterman1 said, "I put small recesses with my dremel where my adjusting screws contact, I find this better than a pin or screw in a notch. I also radiused the ends of my adjusting screws to match."

This is a good idea. An alternative approach is is put bearing balls of the appropriate size in the adjusting screw holes. Same effect as fitterman1's method. Helps to keep the gib from moving and rubbing on the top or bottom edges.

Edit - did this on my Grizzly G4000 years ago and the cross slide moved silky smooth.
 
That is probably what inspired me to do this mod. I had been planning it for some time when I stumbled across the commercial offering at LMS. I literally entered "g0602" into the search box by accident, and that popped up. I have enough projects to keep me busy for months without doing that mod from scratch, so I paid the convenience fee on that one.
I guess I was looking for some repeatable procedure, like tighten the gibs in this order as tight as you can, then back them off this much. It seems to be much more nuanced than that. When I went out there to take the pictures, it seems better the third time I reassembled everything.



That's exactly what his instructions indicate. I didn't really see or feel a burr after drilling and tapping my through holes, but I skimmed the new holes with a countersink anyway.

I've seen scraping come up a lot. This equipment is junk, because the ways aren't scraped, etc. I guess scraping is for machined ways. The ways do seem fine out of the box, and I'm not trying to hold much better than 0.010" tolerances on any of the stuff I'm making so far.

The 602 has holes in the gib for engaging dowel pins so the recesses mentioned above shouldn't be necessary. My 602 (ca 2013) has four gib adjustment screws with the fourth located about an inch to the back of the middle screw. It is possible that it was intended for a cross slide lock but it has the same hardware as the other three. I noticed that there is a slight change in the gib adjustment as the compound clamp is tightened. In my case, the adjustment loosens with tightening of the clamp. This is expected as there is necessarily some upward pull on the cross slide which would lift the cross slide dovetail up and away form the saddle. My gib is adjusted with the clamp tightened.

How are the clamp studs secured in the cross slide? My compound clamp uses screws rather than studs so I don't have any issue with distortion due to jamming studs. If they are jammed into an incompletely threaded hole, they could be causing some local distortion which would greatly increase friction. Check for distortion by coating the saddle ways with layout blue or a Sharpie and sliding the cross slide on the saddle. Clean any oil off the saddle before a plying and wipe a thin coat of oil on the cross slide. Any shiny spots would indicate a high spot. If your stoning process to clean up any burrs was done before the studs were installed, you would miss this. Initially, try it without the gib. If no high spots are shown, install the gib and adjust and retry.
 
I checked my 602 cross slide this afternoon. I have about .0003" of side play in the slde and it takes 28on. oz. of torque to move the cross slide This would translate to slightly less than 2 lbs. of force applied to the crank.
 
I think I'd re stone them all over , and clean the poo out of it. Then load it with way oil and remount with the gib how Richard said. Then hook up after I'd get it sliding free. Only takes one tiny burr or chip.
 
The hole problem with this setup there is no dog leg turned on the screws and no mating holes drilled in the gib the setup is all wrong. I used to rebuild machines and never saw a setup like this no wonder you can't adjust the gibs.
 
The hole problem with this setup there is no dog leg turned on the screws and no mating holes drilled in the gib the setup is all wrong. I used to rebuild machines and never saw a setup like this no wonder you can't adjust the gibs.
If you look at the photo ending 754, there are holes in the gib which are mated to pins. The setscrews seat the pins. Same effect as a dog point screw except the end isn't turning as you tighten the screw.
 
The hole problem with this setup there is no dog leg turned on the screws and no mating holes drilled in the gib the setup is all wrong. I used to rebuild machines and never saw a setup like this no wonder you can't adjust the gibs.
If you look at the photo ending 754, there are holes in the gib which are mated to pins. The setscrews seat the pins. Same effect as a dog point screw except the end isn't turning as you tighten the screw.
I still restful still say not the way to do it done it with dog.leg screws for 37 years and never had this problem .


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For these small lathes I would think dogpoints with a radius filed on the contact end and a corresponding recess in the gib itself would have superior holding power as the force would be spread over all the adjusting screws.
Thats how I do it.
 
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