G0704 CNC Conversion (yes, another thread on this :) )

Relay arrived.. now to wire that.

It was a tight fit... had to invert the locking plastic insert on the distribution block (you can see the bolt facing towards the bottom) for the relay to fit...

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Adding for future reference:

  • 24V to A1
  • DC COM to A2
  • Jumper S21 to S22
  • S11 to one side of your ESTOP (jumper to both N.C. contacts if you have 2)
  • One ESTOP N.C. contact to S52
  • One ESTOP N.C. contact to S12
  • 5V to terminal 13
  • Terminal 14 to ESS ESTOP input pin.
  • 5V to terminal 23
  • Terminal 24 to Stepper Drive Enable
Make sure that your V- from all 3 power supplies are tied together (this is very important). This wiring will give you simultaneous ESTOP channels, one killing the steppers and one telling Mach 4 that the steppers have been shut down.

You have one more Safety channel (33 & 34) that can be used to power down a device (like a spindle) and one Aux channel (41 & 42) that is N.O. and can be used for diagnostics like a lamp that is ON when the ESTOP is pressed in.
 
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G0704 adapters and lead screws from Dave should be here this Thursday via UPS!!!
 
I hope everyone is staying healthy.

Sharing a few photos of the adapters as I did not updated the thread when these arrived...

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I have been kept busy with life events so this has taken a bit of a back burner... Yesterday I did a bit of cleaning in the garage to make space for starting to work on this... It shames me to admit that I had not seen the top of the workbench in over a year... now clear of most of the crap that was on it...

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And moved the adapters over to start figuring out what is next.

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I will have to modify the base more, to accommodate the larger double nut. Emailed Dave to get confirmation before starting to cut.

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That is all for now. Stay safe, stay healthy and continue to take care of yourself and your family.
 
Okay... based on this video, I do need to enlarge that area under the double nut. I made the cut initially for single nut.


On the Y-axis, I should be fine as the block fits without problems.

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Looking great! Keep it up!

Thank you!

For those that have used double nuts, well, I guess this applies no matter what was used...

Does the block has to complete be below the ways? I am trying to figure out and validate if I need to cut the double nut pocket deeper or not... Right now, if I place a flat piece between the sides, the center block does not clear it...

Want to get this correct before I take the machine apart...and not take additional material out if unnecessary...

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So I don't think that it needs to clear that aluminum block since the aluminum block cannot physically pass the sides of the saddle. The main thing you need to worry about it is hitting the underside of the table. Mine was pretty bumpy and had a few bulges of paint that needed to be scraped down.

I'm interested in feedback from you on the quality of the screws and travel error. I did my G0704 in 2013 and purchased Roton brand ballscrews. They really aren't designed for precision motion control and I've had a lot of issues with them. If you really like them and get very low backlash, I may need to buy a set.
 
Keep in mind that I do not have the milling machine apart. I purchased an extra saddle to be able to modify it. That way I was able to use my milling machine to modify it.

So I do not have the table out to be able to look under it... I was just using whatever piece of flat metal I had to validate clearance between the saddle's ways.... That aluminum block was supposed to mimic the table... but now thinking about it, not sure of the shape of the table under it... is it as flat as that block of aluminum or is it raised int he middle? Makes sense?

I am going to have some contortionist move and try to look at the shape under the table and see what that looks like...
 
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