G0768 Or G4000?

I was looking at the G0602 myself, then I got talked into bigger, and bigger, and bigger, and ended up with the G4003G. Looking at it on the shop floor on the pallet it certainly looks like it is more than I need...but time will tell!
Nope. It is just the right size (for now). If you got room and budget, going for a 12x36 lathe makes a lot of sense (power, rigidity, full QCGB). But if you don't have room, the G0602 is a decent choice. Heavy enough to do some real work, but the partial QCGB sucks.
 
I appreciate everyone's comments. Forgive my speedy response. I just had refractive eye surgery and reading/posting is proving to be difficult. I have my screen font turned up to the max and it's all still a bit fuzzy!

The reason I picked those two Grizzlies to compare is they're the maximum footprint that I can afford in my basement workshop area. I have no garage, so my space is limited to the two workbenches I have already.

The Sherline has proved to be a PITA when I need to turn 2 inch round stock. I have the riser blocks, but when I've turned the stock down enough, I take them out so I can use the compound slide more conveniently. The smallest inconsistency in my manipulation of the feeds is obvious on my finished product. That coupled with the limited size, small tools, and limited power of the Sherline led me to want a bigger lathe.

I looked at the Littlemachineshop.com booth at Cabin Fever Expo, and decided against their smaller bench top lathe (7x16). The feed wheels felt gritty and it looked/felt small. I've also looked at the Micromark 7x16. Nearly a clone. Because of size, the biggest I can fit are the two Grizzlies 0768 and 4000.

So, to those familiar with the two:

Is the variable speed unit prone to wearing out? Is it quieter than the drive train in the 4000?

They both have 3/4 hp motors, so do they produce similar torque?

One of you mentioned a power carriage feed on the 4000. Isn't that the same function used in threading, so the 0768 should have it? Pardon my ignorance on that feature, since my experience is limited to the Sherline and a few brief encounters with a Smithy lathe/mill combo.

I'm looking for a clear advantage of one over the other, really. Like I said, I'm turning 2" Delrin stock right now, tapering and boring it. Once I have the process repeatable I'll move to brass. The only steel I'll turn is in the making of tools to ream certain inside tapers, most likely A-2 tool steel, no more than 1/2 inch diameter. My working with tapers means I need a good compound cross slide.

Those needs stated, does the extra weight and gearbox of the 4000 seal the deal, or does the variable speed control of the 0768 make it a better choice?

Thanks a ton!
 
yeah, getting a 400# lathe down the steps to the basement is a back-killer. It goes back to buying what fits into the space you are using.

The variable speed on the lathe is a DC motor & controller (not a cone pulley/belt arrangement like a varispeed drive on a bridgeport). Prone to wearing out? No. Prone to bring up? Not anymore, although the early models weren't reliable, but that problem was solved a few years ago, IIRC.

Power carriage feed: not always the same as threading. Smaller mills use half nuts clamping on the lead screw to drive the carriage feed. Larger lathes have a separate feed rod for longitudinal feed, and the half-nut/leadscrew arrangement is used solely for threading. You can tell by looking at both machine (G0768 and G4000), that since they do not have a separate feed rod, that they both use the leadscrew for carriage drive.

And both G4000 and HG0678 do have power carriage feed (by clamping the half nut). Neither has power cross feed (but you won't find that on a machine cheaper than $2000).

So on to the battle:
1. DC motor=lower spindle speed= G0678 WINS!
2. Partial QCGB = G4000 WINS!
3. Larger mass = G4000 wins (293 lbs vs 166 lbs).
4. More threading combinations available = G4000 wins (27 inch and 11 metric vs. 15 and 12 for the other). That being said, both have all the most common threads (13, 16, 18, 20, 24, 32).
5. More feed rates available= G4000 WINS (18 vs 3!). hmmm. Only 3 feed rates available on the G0768 (0.0037, 0.0068, 0.0071 ipr). What gives with that?

ok, now I flip my vote. Given the choice of the two, I would go with the G4000. You can always retrofit it with a VFD and a 3 phase motor at some later date to get slower feed rates.

Sure you can't find another friend to invite over to help you carry the G0602 (430 lbs) down your basement steps?
 
Thanks again everyone! I'm going to order a G4000. It's decidedly the winner due to the extra weight and slightly bigger capacity. If you look at the published capacities, the 4000 has only a 1/2 inch or so more swing over carriage and bed. The spindles are the same and tailstocks very similar. It came down to the gearbox. Everything I've read leads me to believe that the variable speed motor and associated electronics might wear out more quickly than a gear set. It also seems as though more experience has been gained and shared in the world of the 4000 versus the 0768. Larger tool sizes too!

Thanks again everyone! I might do a pictorial of receiving/unpacking/cleaning/assembly when it shows up.

-Todd
 
Believe me, I know it! Went to a trade show last year, saw a new product, didn't take pics, made a post, and was berated because said product didn't exist. From delivery to set up, I'll document the arrival for everyone to see. I'll admit right now it will take some time. Grizzly told me a week or so for delivery. Lift truck service to the parking space in front of my townhouse. Manual labor from there!

Mineral spirits or kerosene? Oddly enough I'm an Amsoil guy, so bottles of synthetic lubricants are everywhere. Don't ask.... I'm thinking mineral spirits for degrease then some quality synthetic lubes for the ways and gears. I've switched all of my reloading equipment to synthetic greases and everything is silky smooth.
 
We wouldn't berate you, just tease you until pictures were posted. We're all addicted to this stuff you know. WD40 is good for cleanup. Kerosene or mineral spirits too. For lube make sure it has enough stick that it doesn't wipe off easily. I use Vactra 2 on the lathe ways, open gear lube on open gears. I know there are a lot of synthetics with good properties.
 
Finally the G4000 arrived. Because of the "blizzard" that shut down Maryland for a week, UPS freight couldn't deliver their backlog so my delivery got delayed by 4 days.

Lift gate service to my parking space. b94de40e6ce80adf082c283c07980c7a.jpg

Cracking open the crate revealed the drip pan, 4 jaw chuck, and plate bolted in separately. Two bolts held the machine to the pallet.

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A strong friend and I picked it up and hauled it down the stairs to my basement workshop.

The cleaning ensued. I removed the carriage and compound and broke them down into individual parts, decreased with Amsoil Heavy Duty Degreaser (smells like oranges) and reassembled. Same with the tail stock. There was some hardened grease inside the tail stock taper, but it came out easily with a stainless brush.

The biggest challenge was removing the hardened grease from the ways. The only product that worked was PB Blaster and a stainless brush. It looked like rust coming out of the grooves, but in the end, it's all clean.

The chucks are still soaking in degreaser. I'll clean them with denatured alcohol tomorrow and reassemble them.

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Overall, it's turning out to look pretty nice. Once projects are under way, I'll post more pics.

Thanks for the advice!!

-Todd


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Welcome aboard! Looks good sitting there on your tool cart. Remember to close the drawers whenever the lathe is running they are great swarf catchers.
Come to this site for any and all questions, there are no stupid ones. There are many well seasoned machinists here who are happy to help out.
Then there are a bunch of newbies, myself included, who, if we don't know will look in and maybe learn a thing or two from your question. For which
we will owe our thanks to you. Just be careful, wear safety glasses and swarf away.

CHuck the grumpy old guy
 
I ended up moving it to another bench, both for stability and for better lighting. It's all degreased and broken in according to the instructions.

What I found:
- missing middle cross slide gib adjustment pin (that is driven by the screw which is set by a nut)
- paint flakes easily. Especially the drip pan.
- many parts needed a touch from a fine file to remove chips that had not broken clean from the piece
- tool bits should be 1/2 inch to be secured by the tool post bolts. My collection of 5/16 are too small and sit below center of the workpiece.
- motor housing was pinging because it was being hit by a blade of the motor fan. Adjustment made, silent now.
- Chuck handle that you use in conjunction with the spindle handle (both removable) was machined horribly and is not a square peg. It does not fit into the chuck, not by a long shot.
- Rust on various parts. Most of it is innocuous surface rust. Nothing that has penetrated.
- threads aren't smooth on all bolts and holes. It's hard to tell if the interference is from poor internal threading on subpar screws/bolts. I'm tempted to get a few from the local hardware store in a higher grade to replace the few that are terrible.
- tailstock is very smooth in fit of taper and in feeding any tooling
- carriage moves with ease with next to no play

What I'm seeing that I'll be needing:
- quick change tool post
- 1/2 in bits
- matching Grizzly tan (and green!) paint
- lots of round stock

I'm surprised by how quietly this machine runs. There is going to be a decently big learning curve versus the Sherline. That little thing had two feed wheels. More on the G4000. Now I have lots to keep my eyes on! And all of those tools need 1/4 shims to fit in my new tool post.

Any ideas on an affordable QCTP? $100-125 is my target for a starter set.

Also, the compound, even after cleaning and leadscrew adjustment, is stiff. If I retract the compound too far, it is very stubborn to re-engage the leadscrew threads.

I'm envisioning a few initial mods to this machine:
- bolt with handle to secure gear cover instead of allen head bolt; makes it toolless.
- nut with handle to use for quick release tailstock instead of simple hex nut
- file chuck handle to square for chuck removal
- replace various nuts or bolts with better quality hardware

Work safely and enjoy your shop time.

-Todd
 
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