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G0773 Lathe / Mill Combo

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BROCKWOOD

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To start, if you have searched on this forum for the Grizzly G0773, as I have, the most notable comment, & I paraphrase, "Lotta money for a little machine." Yet, it doesn't fit neatly into the benchtop group because it is kinda big for that group - yet the mill portion is really small for that group as well. So, no-one admits to having 1 or all have stayed clear. Given parts replacement can take 6 months, it may well be that few are sold.

I knew I needed a mill when I went shopping. Didn't need much in size as my interest was in making parts for bass guitars. Now I am new to milling, not that I hadn't admired the trade - cause from a young age I have & do admire the trade. I just don't know the trade. But, I ventured that for a little more money, I could have my small mill & a lathe all in 1.

Here it is loading onto my bench.

20150512 06.JPG

Now back in the early 20th Century it was understood that tools of the trade here in the USA needed fine tuning once you bought them. Hand Planes are a fine example of this truth. I had no illusions of my Grizzly being good to go. First challenge was getting the compound on the cross slide to rotate 360 degrees. This is best solved by making a plug that allows the T nuts for the cross slide to glide across the access hole for the T nuts.

20151022 PLUG 001.jpg

20151022 PLUG 003.jpg

More to come & by all means, if you have this or similar please share your improvements!
 

mikey

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Congrats on the new machine, Brockwood! Reminds me of the Emco lathes that had a milling column attached to the lathe bed in the exact configuration you have there. While limited to smaller work, I'm sure it will come in handy for the occasional light milling job.

The lathe looks like a 12X36? Has a separate saddle drive shaft so this is not your lower spec mini-lathe, and I like that the cross slide had full length T-slots so you can rear-mount tools (like a parting tool).

Looks good!
 

BROCKWOOD

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12 x 27 so still a little short there. Feeds n speeds are in X & Y directions. I split the power feed into dedicated 20A Lathe & a separate dedicated 20A Mill for the sole purpose of power feeding under the mill as well. No wiring changes required. Just unplug the mill power from the intended source & using an extension PC power cord, plug it into it's own source. Sub panel was a necessary addition in my case anyway.

20151007 002.jpg

I really hope others will share their experiences & remedies. I thank you for your input Mikey!
 

mikey

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Does the mill have an R8 spindle? That would sure make finding accessories a lot simpler.

My lathe is an Emco Super 11 CD, which is an 11 X 24 - small, very accurate lathe. For the work I do, the 1-3/8" spindle bore has been enough that the length hasn't mattered too much. Looks like a nice lathe - enjoy!
 

BROCKWOOD

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All literature indicated R8 for the mill portion. So I bought some R8 tooling. But mine was made before that change & has an MT3 spindle & tailstock. At least they are the same. Only had to buy 1 drill Chuck! Accuracy is much more important than size, yours sounds like a fine machine Mikey!
 

BROCKWOOD

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I've added a QCTP FINALLY. Whew. I bought the BXA cause it's good for a 12" swing right?! Swing is NOT the measure to dial in the size that is right for you. Center height above the cross slide is what matters. No, get the AXA for this model G0773. Whittling down tool holders to get the center height dialed in was an experience. The mini mill portion wouldn't put a dent in them, so I set them up on my belt sander to wear them down like a river over a rock - but only while I was present & near the switch. Yes, safety can add a million years to a million year project.

Now I don't deny being new to machining & relish the advise of those that know. You might've even seen the thread on whittling down QCTP tool holders yourself. I'll sum it up for those that haven't: Get a 4 jaw chuck for your lathe, chuck up a tool holder center as near center can be without too much fuss & starting from the center it is possible to cut it down while feeding outwards. I had all ready measured how much to remove. It went surprisingly quick - especially compared to the million years my own erosion plan would take. Doing the best I could, I do still have to admit that facing them on the lathe - as a compromise - left a tit in the middle of the face. The little tit came off quickly on the belt sander.

Another thing I finally checked was actual feed per revolution on the cross slide handle. The dial reads l to l = 0.001" yet, the numbers only count to 80 per rev or 0.080". Each revolution with a known good dial indicator is actually 0.100". Can't find the thread where a guy is making a new cross slide screw & nut for his Chinesium lathe. People cut him down for going to the trouble of making a 100 division dial. They essentially said that a precision dial on a imprecise screw is like lipstick on a turd. Must've seen that on another site. Anyway, you can dial in your backlash & as long as you only take your measures with feeds in 1 direction (again only 1 direction), you are not straying from your goal. I say this + a dial indicator for a good proof that you moved to the correct spot is just smart on any machine. Here's the part that I didn't like & it made me mad: You can't cut down the manufacture of a screw that is owner made unless he gave you that screw (only then could you know if it was any good). So, as delivered I must do the math conversion 0.040 on the screw is = to 0.050" or I could make a new scale to fit the dial & know it matches the dial indicator.

Finally, I'm a little more proud of my lit'l Grizzly. I chucked a 25" piece of 1.5 bar & managed an 0.035" cut the entire exposed length on auto feed!
 

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Aaron_W

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I've never been a fan of combination items other than the Swiss Army knife and Leatherman tools. It always seems like one part breaks or becomes obsolete leaving a weird item that doesn't work, but works too well to throw away without guilt. TV / VCR, washer / dryer unit.

On the other hand I've known a lot of people who got stuff cheap because of that. It seems like every kid who grew up in the 1970s was gifted a stereo / turn table / 8 track player from an older sibling, aunt / uncle etc when 8 tracks went out of style. Usually got it with one 8 track cartridge, Iron Butterfly or the Bee Gees seemed popular.

For a time my dad had one of those big console TVs with a stereo and turn table. The TV didn't work so he used it as a stereo and had a TV / VCR on top, the VCR part didn't work so he had a VCR next to the TV / (broken) VCR. The only thing he actually bought was the VCR, the rest he got for free.



Anyway, I think that is why you see some disdain for mill / driils and combo lathe / mills. They sell enough of these that you have quite a few options to choose from, so they obviously fill the needs for some, such as yourself. If it works for you that is all that matters. The mini-lathe / mills get much of the same, it is hard for some with a 1 ton lathe to understand how anybody could be satisfied with a lathe that a child can pick up and carry.



If you were able to figure out which lathe and mill are closest to those used on your lathe / mill you might have better luck getting answers it you treated them as if they individual machines except when it involves the fact that they are joined at the hip.


I give you credit for ingenuity and determination downsizing your QCTP, but wouldn't it have been easier to return it and order the AXA size?


Is this the thread you were asking about? He is replacing the lead screw on his 9x20 lathe.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/9-x-20-half-nut-problem.74021/
 

BROCKWOOD

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Thank you Aaron. Savarins 9x20. That's it. Still learning my way around.
 

BROCKWOOD

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Though I agree that the swap to the AXA size would have been the most prudent solution to my fitment challenge. I have a large lathe in my future & want to keep the tool holders interchangeable.

Ah, the combo packages for so many things right up through the middle 80s really. I have a Zenith portable radio / phonograph from the 30s. Must weigh 25 pounds & plays 78s. I have a huge RCA Stereo Console from the 60s that is made of real furniture grade wood that still works great too. Good idea on concentrating on either the mill or lathe for ideas from others with similar machines!
 
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Aaron_W

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Ok, I can see how it could be useful to have both lathes use the same size tool holders.
 

BROCKWOOD

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Another good mod for any lathe is to add holders for everyday tools. T Handles will always need to be close (but nut in the chuck when not in hand). My lil combo uses 6mm for most everything, so I included it in my holder design. I made it using 1/2" electrical thin wall conduit.

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BROCKWOOD

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I've actually had this lathe 3 years last April. Now I've done it. Really! By all appearances, I've fried the lathe motor. Made a pass, turned it off, set up for a new pass, turned it on & HMMMMM. Maybe a start cap, so I turned the chuck. Nope. Every manual for every machine states, "leave room to access from the rear." Of course I didn't. It's a 2 car garage full of car parts.

Specs call for 115V 1700RPM. Grizzly doesn't seem to offer it anymore (was just checking my options). Seems nobody does 1700RPM & Grizzly is into 1ph 220V for similar offerings these days.

Gotta get the motor out & see if it is repairable or rebuildable. Pics as I gain access. Of course getting all strain off the motor to retry spinning it up to speed proved useless.

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Couple pics of diving into the belly.
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Mitch Alsup

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You are going to have to move it away from the wall.

But it is likely that the start or run capacitors have turned to toast and that the motor is not completely dead.

Good luck.
 

Aaron_W

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That is a bummer, 3 years seems a short life for a motor unless you run it a lot. Hope it is a relatively simple fix.

If not it 1725rpm seems to be a fairly common motor speed, I wouldn't think they are so picky that an extra 25 would be an issue. My lathe has a Baldor 1725 rpm motor that can be wired 115 or 230v.
 

BROCKWOOD

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Just looked at what it would take to move it all out from the wall. Gotta see what I can do to avoid that. In the end Mitch is right for best results etc. I'm not sure that 1 of the motor bolts is even accessible with the lathe mounted to the table.

Aaron brings up a good point about motor RPM vs Speeds & Feeds. At 1st blush, speeds must be affected, right? Going from 1700 to 1725 RPM isn't much, but still should ......... Math best left to ponder at a later date.

So, here is the lay of the land.

20181220_131815319.jpg

Needs a reorganization anyway.
 

BROCKWOOD

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Well, I knew I wanted to take the motor out to at least clean & inspect it. (Was leaning on it being bad.) And I knew I wanted to make the motor serviceable without unbolting the lathe from the table or moving the table. Plans are to add an inline connector to the wiring as it exits the motor & to use studs with nuts in place of the 4 motor mounting bolts. As an inquiring mind, I went ahead & pulled the F / R switch to see how it works. Motor wires had to come off anyway.

WIRING DIAGRAM 02 LATHE.jpg

I've cut out the Mill portion of the diagram. It's on a completely different circuit now (as discussed earlier). That switch & connection are labeled AUX. The F / R switch (CCW / CW) has 4 jumpers that do not show up in the stock diagram. That is how the switch comes. I've added them to the diagram. So here is how the switch works.

WIRING DIAGRAM 03 LATHE DIR SW.jpg

I do believe we have solved the puzzle. 1 of the plastic spring retainers had melted just enough to prevent Z2 from ever making contact.

IMG_20181224_173351688.jpg

This switch is 1 - 2 months away if I order today. Really looking for a better switch that is much easier to get. Any ideas?
 

BROCKWOOD

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Old switch is rebuilt (from the pile of parts seen above) & ready to go - short term. Contacts are burnished & the melted plastic cut away for smooth contact + make / break functionality. Next it was on to pulling wires through the conduit they are routed in to get to the motor. Turns out the Z2 wire has melted to the wire casing for the chuck guard limit switch down inside the conduit. Gonna need bigger wires with that better rotary switch. I don't need to go up by much - 1 better wire size with good insulation & really just wanting all this to be good for 20Amps min.

Thoughts & recommendations are always welcome?
 
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FOMOGO

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12 gauge fine stranded wire should be fine for your application. Mike
 

BROCKWOOD

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Thanks Mike. I have 12 gauge stranded rounded up. There is a piece of conduit that runs through the gearbox. Looks like water pipe - only very thin. Well, it did not like the heat that had built up. Wiring sheaths stuck to it like glue. I have a thick wall cold water pvc pipe. But I'm leaning toward cutting down a piece of electrical PVC into a trough for the bigger wires to lay in.

Been looking at barrel switches. Exact replacement is just going to burn up again. KEDU makes a higher amp version - but nothing on the shelf here in the states that I could find. Dayton / Eaton have readily available barrel switches, but I am not able to picture how it would wire directly in place of what I have. Lots to ponder.

20181225 01.jpg
 

BROCKWOOD

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The GE SB-1 switch comes in just about any configuration you can imagine. Still available new & much higher than what is listed on EBay. I happen to have saved a few old versions. Just change cams to fit your application. Might have to make my own cams though. Too cold in the shop, so mapping this out for current & future projects is fun.

GE SB1 DIAGRAM 03 LATHE DIR SW GE 01.jpg
 

BROCKWOOD

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Got the motor out. Quite the physical therapy for recovering from back surgery. New switch needs new cams. Just a little each day!
 

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BROCKWOOD

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Had to modify a couple of cams to get the switch to work as needed & added return springs. Good positive feel going on in either direction + snap action off from both forward & reverse. The other stock switch was Lathe - Off - Mill. I want Off - Lathe - Lathe & Aux. So I put together another switch. For now the Emergency Off is all that will be left of the stock controls.

IMG_20190105_222442899.jpg

Time to make mounts & wire this up!
 

Aaron_W

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Had to modify a couple of cams to get the switch to work as needed & added return springs. Good positive feel going on in either direction + snap action off from both forward & reverse. The other stock switch was Lathe - Off - Mill. I want Off - Lathe - Lathe & Aux. So I put together another switch. For now the Emergency Off is all that will be left of the stock controls.

View attachment 284215

Time to make mounts & wire this up!

Did you buy or build a new switch?

I'm ok with mechanical stuff, but really not a fan of wiring and electrical work. Too much like black magic for me. :)
 

BROCKWOOD

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Just old retired switches I had laying around. Built to last forever. Company wanted new tech, so I held on to these. Had to make cams to fit them to this purpose. So long as your switches are rated for the machine you have, just change out as needed with the same switch. My Grizzly needs better than it was built with, so here we are. Dayton makes a fine drum switch for a motor. But I prefer seeing what I can do with what I have laying around.
 
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BROCKWOOD

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Looks like my switches could fit up front where the original switches were. But, I have a better plan. I return to my job tomorrow, so this will have to wait.
 

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BROCKWOOD

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I wanted to mount the switches out back & run handle extensions through to the front. This would require making couplings & some sort of bushing out front to support them. Either way, I needed & ordered a sheet of aluminum. As built the 2nd switch maintains lathe power while switching the auxiliary on & off. Well, parts for 3 bank switches, such as shafts & housings, I have. So modify parts for the 2 bank or add the 3rd bank? I've decided the added bank will maintain power to the Aux while switching the Lathe off. So it's back to cam design. Here is 1 of my renderings as I began to figure the timing of each cam. Despite best efforts to look, there are neither Edelbrock or Iskenderian in my DNA. I'll get this sorted before my aluminum arrives.
 

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BROCKWOOD

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Well, I left the power switch I had dialed in off to the side & started assembling a new one with 3 banks. I set the limit to 4 positions, stacked the 1st 2 banks & had everything I needed. That is OFF - LATHE - LATHE + AUX - AUX. The 3rd bank became the + ??? to the AUX. It's a mystery position that will remain unused - for future needs.

Aluminum for the faceplate came in & I've marked it for cuts & bends. Just not up to it right now. So I made a label for 1 of the switch covers.

SWITCH PLATE GE 00c.jpg

At left is a cover that had whiteout labels on it. It didn't clean up as well as I had hoped. Middle is with my new label installed. Right is for the F / R switch. In it's original use, the handle would return to the center position after TRIP or CLOSE were selected - but the target in the window would remain RED for CLOSE or GREEN for TRIP. My handle will stay in the selected position & when it is turned off (straight up) the last direction used remains in the window.

It's really down to jig sawing, bending, drilling & wiring. So glad I can walk again. Just have regain my strength slowly.
 

BROCKWOOD

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Just have to regain my strength slowly. Sorry, I couldn't find the edit button to fix that sentence. So my task is to make a front cover to house the switches. I went with 6061 aluminum & then remembered that I've never bent it brfore. I cut a slice of it wide enough to become the sides & experimented with it. More to come.

.2019012101.jpg

I'll leave it at this for now: Bending 6061 Al has it's own set of challenges.......................
 

BROCKWOOD

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I did bend the 6061 & thought it came out terrible. Here is the surround for the front cover that will not be used.

287426

I decided to go with 10 gauge wire just for the front to back harness with a terminal block on each end. Had to modify a 12 term block down to 8. I'm working with old stock that's been laying around for years. When is the last time you saw a modular terminal block?! I plan to use 12 gauge hinge wire for the rest (as seen coming out of the motor).

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Sure looks clean back here! A plug was added for the Aux. Supplemental, really, since the computer style connector remains.

287428

Getting there & really ready to get back to making parts for the B&S 2 dividing head.
 
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