Wow, that configuration differs from the parts diagram, in that there is no retaining nut holding the bearings on the spindle, so they must be pressed on pretty tight, and/or loctited on there. Likely a cost reduction on the spindle fab. The bearing numbers do seem to match up with the parts list, as listed in my earlier post.
You probably want to punch out the collet guide pin before playing with the bearings, in case it gets in the way.
You will need a short length of pipe (maybe 4" or so) that fits over the spindle nose, but contacts the lower bearing. Then ideally stand it up in a press and push the spindle down through the bearings. Its probably only a press fit for the last inch or so on the spindle. If you don't have a press find the biggest piece of all-thread that will go through the spindle, and put plates and nuts on each end to apply the force, using the pipe over the spindle nose against the lower bearing. McMaster-Carr has some nice high strength all-thread if the hardware store stuff does not cut it. The forces here will likely damage both bearings, you will not be able to reuse them.
If the bearings do not budge there could be loctite holding them, which might require heating with a torch to get in the 450-500F range, at which point it should break down.
To install new bearings you will need a pipe that slips over the top portion of the spindle and contacts the inner race only of the bearing. (Can also use a combination of pipe and a turned bushing). Look at black iron or galvanized pipe sizes. Once again use a press or all-thread to bring them home. It would probably be best to press each bearing on separately, using the same procedure. (If the outer races touch and you did them both at once there could be some adverse forces on the races that might damage them). If the new bearings do not fit tight you may want to use loctite sleeve retainer on the inside surfaces.