G4003g Going 3 Ph Vfd

Dman1114

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Hi everyone....

Well My warranty is up on my G4003G. These dam chinese motors are garbage. this is Number 3 and it has developed some noisey bearings.


So I've decided to go with a Leeson 192205.30 2HP 3ph motor. And i also purchased the Automation direct GS2 3 hp VFD

I ordered the motor and the VFD tonight. Hopefully ill be able to update this thread later in the week when they arrive.

Also if anyone has tackled this on there lathe and has some pointers .... ill be needing them....LOL
 
Ahem the Leeson motors are now made in China.

That said I have a Leeson 3hp for my mill and the fit and finish on the motor is very nice, I don't use that word often. Its IP rated and sealed up pretty good. I'm going to do the same to my G4003G but I'm thinking about using a Leeson 3hp instead.
 
IMO Leeson was never top drawer even when they were made in USA. I would buy a used motor like a Lincoln or Baldor or Reliance long before I bought a Leeson. Leeson is on par with Emerson IMO, low grade consumer quality with long life not being a design feature. Hopefully your Leeson will serve you well and prove me wrong.

michael
 
The advantage of the Leeson (and Marathon) motors is that it comes in a many metric configurations, which is often a drop in replacement for the Asian machines. The metric motor lines are built to a price point, you can spend much more and get a better motor, but in this application the load/duty cycle is low, I do not feel it is necessary. You can get new surplus motors for not much more than used, so not sure I would want to inherent any potential problems with a used motor. Marathon also makes some decent 3 phase motors (Black Max, Blue Max and Blue Chip lines). If you can get one of these, or a Baldor, Reliance (or other high quality motor) at a decent price and it fits, then go for it.

I use the stock 2Hp 3 phase motor (non VFD rated) connected to a Hitachi WJ200 on my PM1340GT, and have no power issues. Also used 2Hp some other builds for similar size lathes, and you will probably break something before the motor gives out. I do like Automation Direct products, and use their switches/relays in many builds.
 
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Ok.... so I've been doing a lot of reading but I'm still kinda lost.....

the manual calls for this for the pot -

Potentiometer - 3-5 k, 0 to 10 VDC (input impedance 10 k)

can someone post a link where i can get the whole pot with the knob and the decal?.....

also i want to keep this basic and other than the addition of a pot. i want to keep everything else the way it is.

I've got the motor coming and the VFD, ill be pickng up some 12/3 shield wire .

what else will i need?


can anyone sorta dummy it down for me please....


i appreciate any and all the help. thank you
 
Just a note: don't wire any of the existing contractors or switches between the VFD and the motor. You should have an unbroken run of the 3 phases from the VFD to the motors.
 
I would keep the power transformer and the 2A breaker for the light, remove the 5A breaker, Relay FR1 and Contactor KM1, KM2 and KAO. You will need to wire the power neutral "0" 30 on the transformer to terminal "0" to power the work light. You should use a single 4 pole low voltage power relay that can be mounted to the DIN rail, that would require a reset if the power fails or the E-Stop is pressed.

It is not clear where you want to mount your VFD, I would include a power line disconnect followed by two cartridge fuses 30-40A or a dual breaker going to the VFD. The motor is directly connected to the VFD terminals.
You will need to have some form of power latching relay. I would revise the control panel switches/power to low voltage. You would have a 22mm E-Stop switch (like the GCX1135), lighted LED power start switch (like the GCX1204-XX), jog switch (like the GCX1102), and replace the power lamp with a speed pot. A 5K spot should work well, something like the Automation Direct ECX2300-5K and ECX2640 legend plate.
Control buttons:
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...al/Illuminated_Pushbuttons_Flush_-a-_Extended
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...on-Illuminated_Pushbuttons_Flush_-a-_Extended

The issue will be to determine if you need a separate 12 or 24VDC power supply for the relay and switch power indicator LED, so it is not as straight forward as one would assume. The VFD may not be able to supply enough power from the 12V DCM terminal to power the relay and LED power button. I would call Automation Direct to discuss this and what they recommend, and if a separate 12 or 24V power supply is needed (these are inexpensive and can mount to the DIN rail). The direction controls would be run through the power relay and then connect direct to the VFD input terminals. When the low voltage power relay is interrupted, it disconnects the direction signals. The relay latch should be wired, so it can only be powered up with the direction lever in the stop position, otherwise the lathe could run when the power reset button is pressed. There are various ways/schematics which address this, I would sketch out what you plan to do first.
 
Ok so that helps a bunch.... change out the E stop, go with a lighted start switch, a new jog button and the POT....... I Like that. Guess ill call tomorrow and C what they say. and if i need something else ill order it all at once.

I was thinking of mounting the VFD in the left side factory grizzly cabinet. They are really useless to me anyhow.. I was gonna keep the factory light also so i would need to keep the transformer for that.

well i got some stuff to get me started.


Thank You
 
The Danfoss VFD's do not, the 2.2kw supplies a pitiful 50ma of 24vdc power I just had to order a 24vdc supply. Like mksj said they are cheap. Also recommend you get everything organized on paper before you start ordering. I started off going with 24vdc for my controls, changed my mind switched to 120vac, then changed back to 24vdc and now I have spare components I don't need. I also can't believe how much single phase amps you have to feed these VFD's, I'm on the edge with a 220 vac 30 amp breaker for a 3hp motor. It should really be a 40 amp circuit but I don't want to redo everything in 8 awg wire, it ran fine on a 30 amp circuit so I'm going to try that for a while.
 
Looks like it won't be till next week to get the vfd installed...

That's ok. I've got extra time to make sure everything will be right.

The motor showed up last night. ... I think ups has gorillas handling packages. The feet on the motor were snapped off. I called the merchant and they have a new motor in route.

I'm gonna be keeping my light and the factory transformer.

I've got a new 24v power supply to control the relays and lights.

MKSJ... made me up a nice wiring schematic .... he really came through and took care of me THANK YOU!!!

This is a great learning experience, and I will share it with everyone as I go.

I'll post photos and update my progress .... I've got one part I gotta finish. Then I gotta move it away from the wall. And I'm gonna get started prepping.


Well hopefully everything goes well and my machine will be up and going sometime next week.

Thank you to all .

20150416_183402.jpg
 
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