G4003g Going 3 Ph Vfd

Please see attached file with schematic and parts. This was based on requested specifications and Automation Direct VFD, so your application may vary.
 

Attachments

  • Automation Direct VFD Schematic with external 24VDC PS Jog rev 3.pdf
    1.2 MB · Views: 173
Final revised schematic V4, simplified further. Additional safety feature which disconnects the DCM line (VFD internal power 12 or 24V that is required to activate the input terminals) when the power relay disengages. I still recommend using 3 pole relays, the unused set of relay contacts can be used to activate coolant or other devices, if not 2 pole would work. You need to verify the connections of the spindle switch using either a voltmeter or ohm meter if the wires are disconnected. Edit the schematic to fit your needs and particular application. Look forward to your final build and narrative.
 

Attachments

  • Automation Direct VFD Schematic with external 24VDC PS Jog rev 4.pdf
    1.2 MB · Views: 157
And so it has begun.....

I got a box in today from Automation direct....

My dash buttons (minus the Estop) the pot, relays and there blocks... The estop and the DC power supply were sourced else where.. should see those by friday.

Ive decided that I can live with out my lathe for a little while.

I pulled the Lathe from the wall and did some spring cleaning.

Wont be needing any of this stuff anymore.

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The electrical box is empty now.
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I fit the new buttons/pot that i have now in the panel.. had to see how the pot would look LOL.
gonna try and find some matching paint and sand the old power letters off behind the pot Placard and touch it up. Now that i look at it in this pic i may just tape off a nice square, a little bigger than the placard and paint it black.

I want to keep this close to the way the lathe came from grizzly with the addition of the POT.

So the Lighted E-Stop Will stay lit when the master power is on. Then i hit the power start and it lights up letting me know the lathe is ready for action!




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since i will be using the factory wiring with the Apron Fwd Rev stop switch i decided it would be a good time to read out the wires...
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Blue = Power in.....
Red = Reverse
Brown = Forward
Black = Stop
Yel/Grn = Grnd

Looks like the new motor will be here tomarrow.

I will be mounting the VFD in cabinet below the headstock. I will be chipping away at that while i wait for the rest of the parts...

I need to run to the electrical supply shop and get me a box of 22 awg fork connectors....


Guess theres no turning back now. i have absolutely no clue how to wire this up for single phase motor LOL.

There was a ton of wires in the electrical cabinet.
 
Well after 2 long nights.... i got it up and going today. I temp mounted the VFD on the wall and left all my wiring long, that way i could get a feel for the programing and play with it. without having to be down on my knees with my head in the lower cabinet.

Im actually thinking about getting a enclosure to put the VFD in and mount it on the wall.

I am blown away by how quiet and smooth this grizzly G4003G is. Its almost unbelievable. Its like getting a new lathe. Now i have to adjust the backlash in my change gears. I couldn't hear them before

I don't know why i didn't do this when the first motor went out. 2 replacements later and they were still noisy junk.

I owe Mksj a huge thanks... He pretty much stream lined this for me. Mksj Thank YOU... Your an asset to this forum!!!! with his help this job probably would took me a lot longer.
 
i forgot to take a finished photo of the cabinet. I took the picture right before i gave all the controls/relays and lights a powered dry run to verify everything was working pro to hooking anything to the VFD

There are for 4 more wires for that go to the VFD that are in that unstripped cable. They would be the DCM power FWD, REV, and Jog.

and then the light wasn't hooked up yet either.

I had to move all the incoming and outgoing wires to the front of the box cause of clearance issues with the motor. and i ran the Incoming power off the side of the box.

Ill get another finished pic. I cleaned it up some and secured the wires.

From left to right ... 100w dc 24 volt power supply. Power latching relay, fwd relay, Reverse relay

i cut a master on off switch into the side of the box. thats what you see on the right
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Woodstock-D...959?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4c963237


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Last edited:
Jaime,

Looking very nice. World of difference going to 3 phase, and I am sure the new motor is very smooth (especially compared to the stock motor). Glad it came together, your next install will be much quicker. Like that you added a main power switch at the machine.

Some additional information for others who may be doing this conversion. The nice thing on the DIN rails in the box, is it is easy to snap in/out components as needed. I use Automation Direct for a lot of the components, reasonably priced and very decent quality parts (for the most part). You can get DIN rail power supplies in different configurations (sizes), just need to make sure they will fit in your machine cabinet with the door closed, but you can go with a narrow/tall model to give more space in the cabinet. If you need a local breaker for the machine, the supplemental breakers below snap into the DIN rail, and cost less than a cartridge fuse set-up. The 30 or 32A (wire in before the VFD power in, not to the motor) should be fine for a 2Hp single phase set-up, the C or D rating is the trip (surge amp curve) usually used for motors or high start-up current (less of an issue with a VFD). Use some form of terminal system to connect the wires coming into the box. Terminate wires with crimp spades or rings for high power, I like to solder the wire after it is crimped (fills the void space and prevents future corrosion).

DIN Rail Power Supplies, if you use the stock work light (Incandescent Bulb is 50W 24V AC or DC), you will need at least a 100W power supply and wire it directly to the 24VDC power supply
RHINO POWER SUPPLY 24VDC 5A (120W) DIN RAIL ALUM CASE PSB24-120 (CASE IS 1.25" WIDE, 4.76" TALL, DEPTH 4.72")
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ower_Supplies/24VDC,_DIN_Rail_Mount/PSB24-120
or REIGNPOWER supplies on eBay
REIGNPOWER 100W Power Supply NL1100D-24 24VDC 4.2A Din Rail Power Supply Dimensions : (H) 102 x (D) 76x (W) 45mm

DIN Rail Supplemental fuse (if no dedicated breaker at the electrical panel)
EATON SUPPLEMENTARY PROTECTOR 2 POLE 30A OR 32A, C OR D CURVE WMZS2D30, WMZS2D30
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...Series)/D_Curve_(0.5A-40A,_WMZS2Dxx)/WMZS2D30
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...Series)/D_Curve_(0.5A-40A,_WMZS2Dxx)/WMZS2D32

Mark
 
Dman WOW that cabinet looks simple I am so converting my G4003G if I decide to keep it.

mksj - What are we talking here for the single phase supply? With that DC power supply sucking what 6 amps and the amp sucking VFD how many amps are you drawing at peak load?
 
A 2 Hp motor at full load is around 14-18A at 230V single phase (~6A per leg 3 phase), the VFD is usually set to provide up to 150% rated current for short periods. The 24V supply when fully loaded is maybe 1/2A at 230V. So total system load at full rated output (continuous full load) is under 20A, and the rated breaker is 30A continuous, D rated breakers can provide a minimum of 10x rated current for 100ms before tripping. The VFD also stores quite a bit of energy in the capacitors. Mine runs for around 30 seconds after I shut the power off. I have used 30A dual breakers on a number of 2Hp builds, have not had any issues, and the breaker current is appropriate for 12G wiring for power to the VFD. The VFD KW rating does not dictate the fusing for the most part, it is the output current set based on the motor parameters. Since VFD has soft start and overload protection, it mitigates some of the high motor start current/locked rotor current.

Circuit breaker short term trip ratings
Type B - trips between 3 and 5 time full load current
Type C - trips between 5 and 10 times full load current
Type D - trips between 10 and 20 times full load current
 
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